“If you start early enough, you can do it all in a day” the front desk clerk said at the Courtyard Marriott Page when I was checking in.  Unfortunately, in my research, I had planned it out wrong so back in my room, I went about researching tours and times for the next day and shifting things around. What can you do with one day in Page Arizona (also referred to as Lake Powell or Glen Canyon Dam National park area)? It’s all about the incredible nature – views of Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend plus the engineering marvel of Glen Canyon Dam and the serenity of Lake Powell.  But could you do it all in one day?  I was able to do 2 ½ of the four options during my quick visit. I arrived at dinner time Tuesday night after the drive from Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah, I had a good part of Wednesday to visit the highlights before I was off to Zion National Park later in the day.

8 a.m. – Visiting Horseshoe Bend

Located less than ten minutes from the Page Marriott Courtyard hotel, I drove out to Horseshoe Bend and as it was early November (off-season), I was able to easily park in the gravel lot (note – construction is working on a larger parking area so be prepared for parking challenges now) and begin my trek up the sandy hill and down the other side to the edge of Horseshoe Bend (about 1/2 mile) to take in the early morning views of the Colorado River.  Now if you are a photographer you and your tripod would have been here an hour earlier to catch the sunrise.

Much has been discussed about changes affecting Horseshoe Bend due to popularity with visitors and its a tricky one – this picturesque location is estimating close to 2 million visitors in 2018 and the park service is planning to add a few booths for fee collection.  The gravel parking lot I used, is being expanded to accommodate the crowds and avoid the dangerous parking on the side of the road.  Plans for a viewing platform with railings, an accessible trail and other improvements are expected to be completed in 2019.

9:15 a.m. – Glen Canyon Dam

The drive to the Glen Canyon Dam was quick from Horseshoe Bend and again as it was a Wednesday in November, parking came easy in the vast lot which during peak season is packed with cars and tour buses.  I walked into the visitor center to view the exhibit (free) and the expansive view of the dam below.  There is a restroom and gift shop plus guided tours four times a day for $5 with limited number of guests.  The first tour of the day was at 10:30 so I wasn’t able to stay for that as I had a 10:30 a.m. tour at Antelope Canyon. After the exhibits inside, I walked across the empty dam bridge for photos (there are cutouts in the fencing for photos).

10:15 a.m. – Upper Antelope Canyon

The night before at the insistence of the hotel staff, I moved my Lower Antelope Canyon tour until after lunch in order to do the more popular Upper Antelope Slot Canyon tour.  The meeting point was off the main road and had limited parking (so you may need to go earlier or park across the road).  The trucks were filled with 10-12 people and since I had seen these trucks in the Caribbean, I knew they were going to be bumpy and dusty for the off-roading portion of the tour and murder on my back and hips so as a solo I was happily offered the front seat with the driver since he was seating in pairs of two in the back to share seat belts.

Visiting Upper Antelope Canyon is popular and easy to do as it is flat walking inside.  Each group must have a guide (ours was a retired history teacher) and each group is time limited to enter to allow a few rooms just to your group for photos. This tour group had four trucks going out and we joined other tour companies for a total of twelve trucks at the attraction.  You go slowly into the slot canyon with your guide and have time for photos but when you turn around you are instructed to just walk out, no photos, no stopping.

Noon – Lunch in Page Arizona

There aren’t many food outlets in the area so I crossed the road to the strip mall of shops where the local burger (and ice cream) place, Slackers, was recommended for a grilled chicken and bacon sandwich with fries.  They offered local beers, cookies/desserts and a plethora of burger options.  It was busy with locals which is always a good sign.

1:20 p.m. – Lower Antelope Canyon with Ken’s Tours

Visiting Lower Antelope Canyon with Ken’s Tours was the original and only tour I had booked prior to arrival in town but I was easily able to shift the morning visit and delay my drive to Zion National Park in order to experience the adventure of the Lower Antelope Canyon.  This part of the slot canyon is on an Indian Reservation so there is a fee for the tour and a cash fee for reservation access.  Lucky for me the tours leave every twenty minutes and our group was only five people and a guide.  The more adventurous tour involves climbing ladders, stairs and narrow spaces for a different view of the slot canyon.  I was really happy that I did the Upper and now the Lower Antelope Canyon to get a sense of the similarities and differences.

During our visit, there were only three other small groups touring the canyon.  Only two tour companies traverse the Lower Antelope Canyon. Note that in high season (summer), the waits to enter the lower antelope canyon can be hours (yes hours in the sun and heat) due to the limited capacity in the canyon so they have installed a cover to wait under at the entrance.  I’m not sure how happy I would be to wait hours with tons of people.  So I’d suggest going early or late if you and your camera phone just want photos – for photographers, there are different tours for you and your tripod.

Overview  – One Day in Page Arizona

So I did pretty well for my shortened day in Page, Arizona (8 a.m. – 3 p.m.).  I missed the guided tour of the dam which was a shame timing didn’t work out.  I have previously toured the Hoover Dam so will hazard a guess that there are many similarities.  While I would have liked to have sailed on Lake Powell, it wasn’t in the plans given that I needed to drive to Zion National Park later in the day.  Ideally if you are ok to be busy, I would recommend taking the cruise at sunrise in the morning to see how the views change before and after the sunlight hits the rocks and water.

If you are planning a visit to Page, Arizona (Lake Powell & Glen Canyon National Recreation Area), you can ideally do a lot in one day – I know I did but it was off season in November.  You may need two days or more in high season, which as an in between town for the Grand Canyon (Arizona) or Zion National Park (Utah) is a nice layover.

Roadtrip Continues….

Driving from Page Arizona to Zion National Park

3:00 p.m. –  Driving from Page Arizona to Zion National Park

I was keen to get on the road in order to drive during the daylight on the long road back to Utah and into Zion National Park.  My original plan was to leave by noon but adding in the Upper Antelope Canyon was worth the delay because when will I be back in this area anytime soon or ever?  Traveling back on the long two lane road to Kenab was a bit of the familiar but now the other side of the road view.  I stopped quickly at the “Welcome to Utah” sign because why not?  When I reached Kenab, I stopped at Subway for a sandwich and restroom break before continuing to Zion Lodge.  The roads to Zion were not 80 mph roads so while the distance was less the speed limits made the drive longer.

The drive from Kenab, Utah to Zion National Park was just as beautiful as the drives the past two days.  Unlike the vast expanses on the road, the landscapes ahead and around were on smaller roads and when I turned in between the gas station and pub onto the entrance road to the park, it became a small country road all the way to the Zion park sign.

My last minute road trip idea from St. George, Utah to Page, Arizona to see Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon would require an overnight stay at a local hotel.  With only a few options, I chose the Marriott Courtyard Page at Lake Powell for the overnight base to relax and recover from my road trip and prepare for my day in nature. As it was November low season, there was no reason to use points for this category 7 hotel (35, 000 points per night) as the rate was $107 plus tax.

Marriott Courtyard Page at Lake Powell – Location

The hotel is a quick drive from the Glen Canyon Dam and from all Page, Arizona attractions – Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon and Lake Powell (which I didn’t have time to visit).   Page, Arizona is about 1.5 hours from Kanab, Utah (on the way to Zion National Park) and over 2.5 hours from St. George, Utah driving in November.  During high season, I’m sure there’s more traffic to contend with extending the drive times.  For those driving to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (during season) it’s about 2.5 hour drive.  You can also drive to Bryce Canyon.  So basically, the Marriott Courtyard Page at Lake Powell hotel is a great road trip stop in between so many fantastic Arizona and Utah attractions.

Arrival & Check In

I was scheduled to arrive around 5 p.m. after standard check in as I was driving from St. George to Page.  I used the Marriott app to check in prior to arrival so that the hotel was aware of my late arrival time.  When I arrived, my keys were all ready and I only needed to provide my credit card and photo ID to finish registration.  The front desk lady gave me a map of town as well as a list of recommended restaurants in the area.  As no one was waiting behind me, there was time to chat and when asked about my plans, I mentioned Lower Antelope Canyon tour and plans to visit Horseshoe Bend.  She told me that I HAD to do the Upper Antelope Canyon, it was more popular and the views were spectacular.  She said that most of the photos of Antelope Canyon were taken in the Upper Canyon.  With that enthusiastic recommendation, I changed my plans online to book both the Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons.

Marriott Courtyard Page Lobby

The lobby had a few seating areas, a small bar and restaurant off to the side and a large convenience shop with souvenirs and snacks.  I had seen more than one tour bus arrive and spill out their guests into the hotel.  Given that the hotel caters to a variety of tourist – tour groups, business travelers, families and road trippers like me, the lobby was set up in a few configurations to accommodate everyone.  The lobby bar had a communal table, the couches and seating areas were scattered throughout the four separate areas.  There was also a bank of computers to work on (empty during my visit).  Beyond the lobby is the large outdoor pool and patio which I’m sure is popular in warmer months.

King Room at Marriott Courtyard Page

My King room was down the hall far away from the elevators.  When I entered, I was surprised to see a brick wall on one side and the red wall and red couch on the other.  I really appreciated the local photos of Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend throughout the room.  With other art on the walls, the décor was quite nice for a change and to be honest, quite surprising in a good way.

The entertainment center and working desk took up most of the one side of the room while the king bed and seating area (couch, table, chair) consumed the other side of the room.  It was a nice sized room with enough space to use.  There was an in room coffee maker and room to work and move.

The Wi-Fi was free and strong in room.  I was able to stream my Xfinity DVR recordings without any delay in speed.  One annoyance was the air-conditioning/heater unit.  I put the heat on and it made a pinging noise so I ran it for a while until the room was toasty and then shut it off during the night because I couldn’t sleep with the ping.  Staying only one night I worked around it and reported it upon check-out.  Staying longer, I would have asked for it to be fixed or moved to a new room.

The sink area was outside the shower/toilet room and had a stained carpet tile (annoying to see as I always feel housekeeping can easily report this and engineering quickly replace one carpet tile).  The toiletries were by Paul Mitchell.  The shower water pressure was good in the morning.

Breakfast at Marriott Courtyard Page

The morning buffet had a good selection to choose from except there wasn’t an omelet station.  The waitress confirmed that the scrambled eggs were made with water not milk so I could eat them from the buffet. They did not have gluten free breads.  I was lucky to have just missed the large tour group that had taken over the majority of inside tables and devoured the foods at the buffet.  The breakfast cost was reasonable and the portion size a good start to the day.

Overall – Marriott Courtyard Page Hotel

The Marriott Courtyard Page at Lake Powell was a top end hotel in the town.  The staff were wonderful each time I had a question (needed a map, restaurant recommendation, tour options, etc.) and I definitely was made to feel like a welcomed guest.  When you stay at a hotel for one night, sometimes you just get to be a passer in the night with nary of an impression but for my stay, I was acknowledged throughout.  That says a lot about the hotel and the locals who work there who are keen on you enjoying their town for a short or long time.

Just like an internet ad that follows you from page to page haunting you, the photos of Antelope Canyon were showing up everywhere I looked – my friends Facebook page, online sites I visited and when I was out and about.  The universe was basically using a sledgehammer to get me to notice.  So when I booked my wellness escape to Red Mountain in Utah, I researched driving from St. George to Page, Arizona to visit Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon.  It seemed like a lot of driving in 24hrs but the stunning photos that haunted me seemed like it would be worth it.  And with that, I booked a night at the Marriott Courtyard and started researching Antelope Canyon tours.  What I didn’t know was that there are two Antelope Canyon tours – one for the Upper Antelope  (more popular) and one for Lower Antelope (a bit more adventurous with ladders, stairs, tight squeezes). Both are on Navajo lands and require a guide to visit.  Which Antelope Canyon tour to pick?  Should you do both?

Upper Antelope Canyon Tour

The front desk person at the Marriott Courtyard Page hotel told me that I had to go see the Upper Antelope which was the more popular and easier to visit.  I had read that the crowds make the visit not so fun but it was mid-November and I was told it shouldn’t be too crowded.  So with a few companies recommended, I booked online with Chief Tsosie Antelope Canyon Slot Tours (Scenic Tour) at 10:30 a.m. for $58 (tour fee + $8 Navajo fee). Their office (old gas station) was a quick drive from the hotel and once I checked in (1/2 hour before tour time) and received my truck number, I waited with the other tourists.  On this November Wednesday morning there were five trucks leaving at the same time.  Each truck held about 10-12 people on benches in the back and I asked to ride up front with the guide, Eugene.

He was a retired school teacher who talked about his family and recent road trip to California.  As we drove out of town (10 mins) and turned onto the dirt road, the off-roading portion of the tour began (sportsbra alert!).  When we arrived at the entrance to the Upper Antelope Canyon, there were four other touring companies with their trucks lined up.

We followed Eugene to the entrance of Upper Antelope Canyon where we were told that going in and through we would stop and he would explain the rooms (we were to stay on the right side).  He would also take photos for us.  However, on the way back (after a wait outside for each group to go) the protocol is to walk without stopping past the other tour groups along the right side of the canyon.  Each group abide by the rule and we were lucky that before noon the tourists levels were low.

The tours run all day and it’s really a gamble as to when the best light is for tour time.  There is a slight premium on some tour times depending on the light.  In winter, I was told it didn’t matter but the light really does affect the view of the Upper Antelope Canyon especially if you are a photographer.

There are a number of chambers/rooms each with different lighting, shadow and views.  There is one room that is the dark room without light.  The slot canyons continue to change with time and floods, the more recent Antelope Canyon flood was in 2013.

A famous story is that the most expensive black & white photograph ever sold was taken in the Upper Antelope Canyon when it was empty.  Eugene told us this story and then explained we had about two minutes of empty room to take photos.  We all quickly scattered about to get a good photo and angle with dreams of selling a million dollar photo!

We had just over an hour walking though the Upper Antelope Canyon before we were back on the truck on the way to town.  It was a nicely organized and paced tour – I tipped Eugene $10.

Lunch in Page, Arizona between Antelope Canyon Tours

The location of the Upper Antelope tours is in the middle of the road so there are a few food options on both sides of the street.  After a failed attempt at a recommended café (limited menu), I remember that Eugene had suggested a good burger place across the street at Slacker’s.

The restaurant was busy at lunch time and offered a good variety of options.  I chose grilled chicken with bacon and avocado with a side of fries and a cookie (for the road trip to Zion).  The food was delivered to my table and I devoured it quite quickly.  It was very good.

Lower Antelope Canyon Tour with Ken’s Tours

My tour of the Lower Antelope Canyon was much different in the afternoon after spending the morning at the Upper Antelope Canyon.  I drove myself to the Lower Antelope Canyon location where you have a choice of Ken’s Tours or Dixie Ellis – do make a reservation in advance!.

I chose Ken’s Tours and checked in and paid $33 cash (tour + $8 Navajo fee) in person (the online is reservation only and no credit cards are taken) and waited a few minutes before my guide, Sylvin, arrived.  Our group was only five people and we walked outside for a few minutes before arriving at a covered walkway leading down to the canyon.

I was secretly thrilled that it was winter and I wasn’t in a long line that can stretch more than two hours waiting in the hot summer.

Unlike the Upper Antelope Canyon where you can easily walk in the flat terrain with enough room to pass people, the Lower Antelope Canyon is a challenge.  It begins with a few flights of stairs down into the canyon and limits the group sizes and timing.  If you are afraid of heights, ladders or other, this might not work for you.

Once we were all down on the canyon floor, the guide began telling us more about the Lower Antelope Canyon.  One scary story involved the rains and flooding through the canyon (see YouTube).  Thankfully no rain was in the forecast today.

As we walked deeper into the canyon, there were tight spaces to traverse, a few steps up using the wall to balance yourself (my foot didn’t fit on the floor space), and more ladders/stairs.  I choose to go backward down the ladders instead of forward to keep my balance.

Since I had both parts of the Canyon to compare, I enjoyed the small groups and privacy of the Lower Antelope Canyon vs. the multiple groups in the Upper Antelope Canyon. The Lower Antelope Canyon was more adventurous, the views slightly different as the slots of light above varied in size and location.   Our tour was 1 hour and 15 minutes and with the small group was a good amount of time to be adventurous in the slot canyon and enjoy the scenery.

Which is Best? Upper Antelope Canyon vs. Lower Antelope Canyon

If you only have one day in Page, Arizona like I did to see Antelope Canyon, I’d recommend scheduling time to visit both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon to understand the differences.  If you only have time to visit one slot canyon, either will suffice to provide the magical photos that seem almost unreal however, if you can do the more adventurous Lower Antelope Canyon, I’d probably lean more toward that.

Visit Antelope Canyon Tips

• Monsoon season is July, August, September and early October so be aware that the tours can be canceled – the same with the temperature – if it’s too hot they will not run tours.
• Important: Antelope Canyon in Page, Arizona operates on ARIZONA time – if you are driving from Utah like I did you will need to change your phone for the time difference.
• Bring Cash for tips
• Wear sunscreen, bring a hat and sunglasses, a snack and enough water for the visit. Note that bathrooms are at each tour vendors’ location before/after tours – there are none on the tour of Antelope Canyon.
• If you are a professional, tripod carrying photographer, then look to book a different tour that allows you and others time to explore and set up the photos.