I’ve sailed many cruise lines over the years and one of my favorite cruise memories was on Celebrity Constellation sailing Turkey and Greece. Staff exceeding expectations is an understatement. One night, the maître d saw me and remarked that I wasn’t booked for dinner (not many solos onboard plus I was younger than the demo so I stood out). I told him I was tired of the extravagant meals and craved something simple I make at home and described the meal. He convinced me to come to dinner that evening and join the group. When the main entrees arrived, we were all surprised to see my dinner – it was exactly as I described – pasta, grilled chicken and asparagus in a red sauce. This was one of many “wow” moments that made Celebrity one of my favorite cruise lines.
So imagine my surprise when Celebrity announced their new ship, Celebrity Edge, would have (single) solo balcony cabins. It’s a start for solo travelers, like me, who enjoy luxury cruises. With the ship in Europe for its inaugural season, I’ve not had a chance to sail yet but my UK friend, Amy Stanning, did have a preview press and trade sailing in the UK recently and shares her initial review of Celebrity Edge with photos below.
But first….the teaser video by Celebrity (I’ve watched many times). This looks like a boutique hotel resort at sea! The design of the roof garden, the many retreat outdoor spaces as well as the spa and indoor spaces don’t look like any cruise ship I’ve sailed in the past. If this video doesn’t tempt you well I don’t know what to say because I’m ready to experience the new Celebrity Edge!
[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKw0dPJo-Rw[/embedyt]
Review: Celebrity Edge Cruise Ship
The Edge of Luxury at Sea by Amy Stanning
The CEO of Celebrity Cruises said “when you walk on board it should feel brand new”. When you walk on board The Celebrity Edge yes it’s new, but WOW! When you board on deck 5 the first thing you see is “Raw on 5” the most tempting and delicious looking shellfish selection I have ever seen. Beautifully presented “Raw on 5” sets the scene for the whole ship and its elegant design and luxury all the way! I love cruising and am used to established standards but Celebrity Edge takes luxury in design to another level.
Edge Balcony Stateroom (Infinity Verandah)
The Celebrity Edge staterooms were designed by Kelly Hoppen, an award winning British designer, and are unlike anything else you’ve seen on a cruise ship. The bed has been created exclusively for Celebrity Cruise Line with a cashmere mattress and eXhale bedding program. First on Edge, it is expected to roll out on other ships in the future. The bathroom is said to be 10% larger than most and included a bathrobe and slippers.
The “WOW” moment is when you see the balcony (Infinite Verandah), its part of the room! So much light and space, the Ocean feels part of the room! The killer feature is a drop-light window which, at the touch of a button, descends to mid-level to open up the whole room to the sun and sea. If a “traditional” balcony is needed simply extend the folding glass doors if not – enjoy the light, sea and air through your stateroom.
Celebrity Edge Magic Carpet
One feature that has been featured as ground breaking is the “Magic Carpet”, an innovative feature on the port side which is used as a bar, restaurant and tender stage. The “magic” is being movable between deck 2 and 14 (sadly no guests are allowed inside when moving!). Being connected to the sea is a theme across the ship and enjoying a drink on deck 14 directly over the sea is quite incredible!
Deck 14 also has the outdoor pool, solarium with indoor pool and resort decks with private cabanas, quiet spaces and incredible artwork installations.
Celebrity Edge Entertainment
The Theatre is state of the art with the first “stage in the round” (almost) I’ve seen at sea. With a video wall right around which would do well in Time Square – it’s an incredible venue. I experienced the music show with live band performing original material and cover versions of many standards – including Queen and Elton John. Highly engaging and dynamic performances making full use of the theatre capabilities and I would love to see the show again!
The “Club” venue hosted comedy and late night dancing – which seemed to go on long after my bedtime! It’s a comfortable venue with bar and many cozy places to sit and enjoy as well as a highly inviting dance floor! “Eden” is another “club-type” venue, with a unique tropical jungle feel to it. The music and dance was exotic and engaging. A highlight was the performances among the crowd which made for quite the interactive experience. Eden is spread out among three levels and features a slowing walkway around the venue with lots of opportunity for great views.
Edge Dining Options
I was booked to eat in both the ‘Cosmopolitan’ (main dining room) and “Luminae” (suite class dining room). In Cosmopolitan I ate alone and was perfectly comfortable with a discrete table. In Luminae we had a small group sat privately to enjoy the experience. Cuisine was everything you would expect and service so much more engaging and empathetic than I’ve seen before. What marked the experience in both restaurants was the quality of service and presentation.
Much less “mass catering” than on other cruise lines. I enjoyed steak in both – sirloin in Cosmopolitan and Filet in Luminae , both beautifully cooked (medium) as I asked for. Luminae is reserved for guests staying in Suite Class so this was indeed a treat. I do though prefer a more hearty meal and found the “taste experience” portions served in Luminae were wonderful but left me hungry. So my preference would be the main dining rooms (there are another three dining rooms complimentary). Celebrity Edge offers seven “Premium” (additional charge) restaurants although sadly time didn’t allow me to enjoy!
Celebrity Edge Solo Friendly?
What were the downsides? Only one of significance – I love to cruise Solo and yes Celebrity Edge has Single Balcony Staterooms specifically for Solos (Celebrity calls it Single Infinite Verandah). Just as impressive as the regular sizes with design and features, albeit smaller (202 sq. ft. vs. 131 sq. ft.) and without a sofa, there are only a handful (16) of single staterooms available. So if you want one, make sure you book early! I asked about Solo traveller activity – this seemed a bit hit and miss and guest initiated – that’s a gap against other Cruise companies intent on capturing the valuable and growing Solo market.
[PhilaTravelGirl Note: I’ve read reviews that Deck 6 may have potential obstructions so choose carefully. Also, when I sail solo, I always join the Cruise Critic roll call boards and Facebook groups to meet folks ahead, join private tours and meet/greet events]
Review Celebrity Edge – Final Thoughts
The Celebrity Edge is a wonderful ship – more an “experience”. If you’re in the market for a total luxury cruise this is the most amazing ship you will have the opportunity to enjoy. Celebrity Edge is in the Eastern Med this summer, sailing the Caribbean for the winter and back to the Med in spring 2020. It’s a premium cruise experience offering a standard of environment, features and service that exceed “mass market” cruise ships. Worth the extra money? Depends on your perspective, but if you are looking for an “up-market” experience away from the mass – it’s certainly worth trying!
Amy Stanning travelled on Celebrity Edge’s European Preview in May 2019 as guest of Celebrity Cruises. All Celebrity Edge photos included in Amy’s review were taken by her and shared as a courtesy.
Thanks to Amy for sharing her initial thoughts, experiences and photos on the Celebrity Edge ship sailing in the Med this summer. I can’t wait to experience the ship myself – I love the solarium, spa menus and wow that roof garden looks like a great escape to read a book in the sun with a slushy cocktail! If you have already sailed on Edge, comment below on what you liked, didn’t like and recommendations for others considering this ship.
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Paris boutique hotels continue to impress me with their style, warmth and service levels. Finding a new luxury gem to add to my Parisian collection has become my new obsession in Paris (it takes hours of research before I commit to try a new hotel). Hotel Therese in Paris made my radar three years ago when I was researching small boutique Paris hotels. The design was contemporary and the colors on the website seemed warm and welcoming. Sadly, on my last two visits to the city, I was unable to find a room, but for Mom’s Luxury trip to Paris, I wanted us to stay here. It was the type of hotel that I knew I would like and hoped Mom would too.
Location – Rue Therese in the 1st (Right Bank)
Hotel Therese has a fantastic location on a quiet street, Rue Therese, on the Right Bank in the 1st arr., not far from the Louvre, the Seine, the stunning Paris Opera and Galleries Lafayette. An added bonus is that the area is surrounded by restaurants, cafes, shops and if you are feeling wealthy, rue Saint Honore. Less than ten minutes walk you have the Metro Line 1 (yellow) which can easily take you up the Champs Elysses to La Defense with stops at Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe.
If you walk to the Seine and over the bridge then you arrive at Musee D’Orsay and have access to the RER C (yellow) line that can take you along the water up to Eiffel Tower (stop: Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel or Pont de l’Alma) or as far as Versailles, the last stop (if you want to DIY your visit instead of a tour from Paris)
Hotel Therese – Arrival
When we arrived, we entered and were instantly transported into a cute luxury boutique hotel. After our long journey, we felt welcomed by both staff members at the front desk who said both “Bon Jour and Hello” covering all bases. As it was after 4 pm when we arrived, our rooms were ready (check in is at 3 p.m., check-out is noon)
While I took care of providing my passport, credit card and filling out the registration form, Mom was relaxing in the lounge and a staff member took our bags to our rooms and said he would come back for us as we all couldn’t fit in the lift. The elevator is small holding two people or one person with the big luggage that Mom brought with her – he managed to squeeze himself and our two bags.
Our rooms were next to each other which made it easy for mom to knock on the door in her robe when she needed me for something.
I was handed our room keys in pure European style – they are massively large and unique (sheared leather ponytail). Mom looked and said “I can’t fit that in my bag” and I explained that we give the keys to the front desk when we leave each day and of course this freaked her out a bit. I said “hotels can get into your room at any time with or without your key to clean, fill minibars and fix broken items” It was funny because so many first time travelers to Europe find the handing of keys odd and unsettling but really who wants to carry this with them?
The Lobby Lounges
The lobby has two side lounges – one before you reached the front desk and the other next to the front desk. Each was private and comfortable with magazines and newspapers available to guests. In the smaller room next to the front desk there is an honesty bar at night. From 4pm – 6pm, there is a complimentary tea time set up which we unfortunately missed each day. If you are meeting friends or just want to relax outside of your room, these lounges are perfect.
Hotel Therese Room(s)
The hotel is a renovated 18th century townhouse with 40 rooms all with different layouts in five room categories, including a ground floor room that is accessible (not that the lift to the breakfast room is up a few stairs though).
The smallest room is called “Tiny Classic”, you can’t fault them for being honest about 10m2/107 sq. ft. For Mom, I reserved the “Small Tradition Double” (11-13m2/150sq ft.) and for me, the “Medium Tradition Twin” (15m2/182 sq. ft.). For context, most U.S. hotel rooms are about 250-300 sq. ft. so cozy is the right description for the Parisian rooms.
After exiting the elevator we had a few stairs to go up and the lights automatically went on (European hotel hallways are often dark unless used and go on with motion control). Our hallway had just five rooms – the two rooms across from us was being used by one family. The key is electronic so you only need to tap the end to the metal on the door. I showed Mom and she got it on the first try so it’s easy to use.
Small Tradition Double Room (Mom’s Room 56)
Given that my Mom hasn’t traveled much to have her own room, she loved her small space When you enter the room the desk/tv/minibar are on the left with the double bed and bathroom on the right. The design was contemporary luxury. The windows opened for fresh air and the air conditioner was working very well to cool the room. As the view looked into the courtyard, it was quiet and opening the windows to sleep would be an ok if that’s your preference.
The desk contained a hand written welcome note, bottle of water and a bar of Angelina chocolate (the kind of welcome I like!) Mom doesn’t like chocolate so more for me!
Mom’s bathroom was the only surprise for her and an oversight for me. It had a tub to climb into which is typical European for me unless at a new or renovated property that has a shower only like a few of my past boutique Paris stays. Now all I thought about was Mom falling in the tub (thanks Mom!) but I showed her how to hold the rack above to get in and out. She opted to sit on the side of the tub and enter that way. Here I thought I had thought of everything but missed this one piece (I did buy travel insurance!)
Medium Sized Tradition Twin Room (My Room 58)
Located at the end of the small hallway, I opened the door and was surprised to see a long hallway to the bedroom with two doors on the right for the closet and bathroom. I instantly loved this room form the moment I opened the door and even more love for the welcome note, bottled water and chocolate (same as Mom’s).
I noticed the sloping ceiling by the windows and took note to duck a bit when I opened the double windows which were shorter than me. I could see Mom’s window and had a similar view of the interior courtyard of buildings.
My room was larger than Mom’s (I had two single beds pushed together in this double room). I had more space with an armoire filled with coffee maker, safe, minibar. The desk had room to work and the television above was a good size if I wanted to watch TV (I didn’t). The bed was firm but that didn’t prevent me from soundly sleeping. The wifi was included and required a password to use.
Here’s my video walk through of the room
[embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a560Tm1TaNU[/embedyt]
The Marble Bathroom
The bathroom felt a bit smaller in layout than Mom’s but was fine for me. The toiletries were local and lovely with a nice scent – one annoyance is that they have the little foil seals that are hard to peel off especially, if like me, you are in the shower, your hands are wet and you lose patience so you squeeze really hard to pop it open.
Hotel Therese Breakfast Room
The basement breakfast room is adorable, original vaulted ceilings and brickwork and while we were usually the only ones there because Mom liked to sleep in, one day there were three full tables (the only time we saw other guests) the server asked for the room number and whether you wanted coffee or tea. She got confused with Mom & me as we had two room numbers and did different breakfast each day (extra charges on my bill but the front desk sorted those easily). Mom enjoyed her cereal and coffee each day while I overlooked the fact that it cost €15
The breakfast choices are Full, Continental and Express costing €6-€15 per person. Of course, Mom’s cereal was part of the full breakfast so that was €15 each day. It was funny to see the face she made with the Yoplait yoghurt as it is so much different than the U.S. version. The breakfast included scrambled eggs, hard boiled eggs, cereal, fruit, cold cuts and a bread table, which included a basket of gluten free bread.
We ate in the hotel each day since it was the quickest coffee fix for Mom and on the last day treated ourselves to Angelina (known for their chocolate).
The Front Desk
The staff at the front desk were always pleasant and accommodating. The older gentleman on the overnight shift got to know Mom as he called her each day for her wakeup call (there are no clocks in room). When I inquired about taxi vs. Uber they were very frank to recommend Uber given the added costs that a taxi may charge from time of call to arrival (they could get stuck in traffic in the area causing your costs to be high before you get in). I appreciated the honesty and noticed they also have the taxi notice posted at the desk to avoid meter shock if they order a cab for you.
Airport Pickup Arranged
The hotel arranged for a taxi pickup from the airport. Our driver was waiting with a sign and escorted us to the airport parking lot to find the van. The cost was slightly more at €75 than a taxi or Uber would have been but we took comfort in knowing that the driver was waiting and knew where we were going. The driver spoke a bit of English. The only confusion was that I provided a credit card to the hotel thinking I paid in advance but that was only to hold the reservation, I needed to pay cash to the driver at the hotel (lucky for me I had Euro on me) Next time, I would pre-pay to avoid the confusion. The cost to the airport is less (no waiting time) at €60.
Hotel Therese Rates
I booked via email because I had the two room query with a request to be near each other which is harder to do online with two separate reservations. The hotel website is easy to use and the photos are a good representation of the property. During our visit in early September, the rooms were discounted online (always check their website for specials and sign up to receive emails).
Mom’s Room (Small Traditional Double Room) – Normal €250, Discount Rate €207
My Room (Medium Traditional Twin Room) – Normal €290, Discount Rate €243
Hotel Therese – Final Thoughts
I loved the Hotel Therese Paris as did Mom. The location was fantastic for a first time visit as we were so close to everything Mom wanted to see and given her limited mobility (at the time) made for easy walking. The staff was five star, the room quiet and comfortable, the free Wi-Fi fast and easy and the welcome note/chocolate a wonderful personal touch. For a luxury boutique hotel experience in Paris, the Hotel Therese is at the top of my list and should be on your list too!
Sometimes you and your stomach just need comfort foods from home (sadly you can’t find Philly soft pretzels or cheesesteaks with Amoroso rolls on the road). After two months away from the U.S. on my sabbatical, I had enjoyed the Spanish tapas, Barcelona food tour, Cava tastings and a month in Italy eating gelato daily and indulging in carbs via the pizza, pasta and wine. I had a few yens that only a few American diners in Paris would satisfy. If you think about it, I was living like a local and enjoying these American styled restaurants filled with French people and students. While the staff spoke English, many of the people around me were speaking French as they enjoyed their American comfort food meals (i.e. -burgers, fries, milkshakes, wraps, etc.).
So a few American Diners in Paris finds for your next visit (great if you have kids or picky eaters in your group).
My Pop Paris
With my injured foot, I walked across the street from my hotel, Platine Hotel, to the Beaugrenelle Mall and while Chipolte was tempting, I rode the escalators up passing each floor of food and the M&S. I settled at the top at the My Pop, a contemporary update on the classic American diner.
Expecting to see many tourists as the restaurant has a lovely view over the Seine, it was pretty empty on a Tuesday night. Frankly, this area of Paris, the 15th arr, doesn’t quite see the influx of tourists that the others do. The restaurant was part of the mall that included the movie theatre and M&S food market which are more neighborhood than tourist attraction. Welcomed with popcorn, I quickly ordered a glass of red wine (my American diner doesn’t serve wine) but had to sit with my back to the Seine due to the strong sunlight streaming in (a few people in the know, speaking French, were wearing sunglasses at the table and only in Paris does this seem ok to do).
Looking out at the restaurant, the design is really appealing. It’s cool, a bit trendy with a spot of fun mixed in – I spied Campbell’s soup cans on the shelf as decorating pieces.
I was two months away from the U.S. having indulged in Spain, Italy and Malta so I really needed a grilled chicken sandwich and a taste of home. The menu offered me many comfort food choices (I don’t eat nachos, onion rings or mozarella sticks but you get the idea) so I added bacon and avocado to make it a healthy balance (haha!). With a side of fries and Heinz ketchup, I was a happy girl. I didn’t need to wander about in search of steak frites or other French dish, my fractured foot led me here. A chocolate brownie cake for dessert with another glass of red just made it fabulous.
My meal cost €34.00 (sandwich, bottled water, two glasses of wine and chocolate dessert).
Breakfast in America
Last year, my niece and I found comfort at Breakfast in America – I loved the sandwiches, my niece loved the milkshakes. We visited the café for breakfast and two dinners because my niece really enjoyed food she knew (milkshakes, California wraps, eggs and bacon). It was definitely kid friendly even if she was the only kid in the joint.
So this year, when I stayed in the 5th arr, at Hotel Atmospheres again, I visited Breakfast in America because it was reliable, reasonably priced and good. I still haven’t tried their burgers that many students were enjoying (the Sorbonne is nearby).
Their small space is classic American diner with the red leather seats, counter service and chrome details. There are a few booths, a communal table and a few small tables. It’s like stepping back in time (before my time) into a movie of the 50’s diner. The menu has enough choice to satisfy everyone. With specials during the week and brunch on the weekends, it does get crowded (no reservations).
My meal cost €11 (grilled chicken sandwich with bacon, fries and filtered (free) water).
Loulou’ Friendly Diner
Walking around the city, I passed a café that was full of happy people during the day so I made a note to return later. When I returned the next night for dinner, I realized it was a cute diner (inside) named Loulou’ Friendly Diner with an outdoor seating area on Blvd Saint-Germain and everyone was eating burgers so I ordered a burger. With a mix of students, couples and groups of friends, this seemed like a popular café and I can see why. I was definitely an observer here noticing all the details in the food, the service and the décor. The service was attentive and friendly. I felt weird taking photos here and sticking out as the tourist I was that I just sat and enjoyed the atmosphere while drinking wine.
When my burger arrived it was massive and full of toppings. The burger was a messy delight which paired well with a glass of red wine. The burger was so filling that I couldn’t finish it which meant I had to pass on dessert! (such a travesty).
My meal cost €24 (burger and a glass of wine).
Burger Bonus: Hamler’s Burgery
In search of dinner, I spied a shop named Hamler’s Burgery, that reminded me of Shake Shack. Staying in Paris for a week, this was my second burger. With the menu on the side wall, it was easy to order and add a glass of wine (it’s Paris, wine is essential). I wanted something that wasn’t expensive, seemed quick and looked good – a place where I could happily eat alone without issue.
The décor really didn’t scream Paris, you could be anywhere USA enjoying a burger, fries and a milkshake. The food was freshly prepared and delivered to my table since there wasn’t a crowd. The portion size was good and the food was quite tasty. It’s funny that for a moment I felt guilty eating a burger in Paris but then with greasy yumminess in hand, I quickly forgot that and my stomach was happy.
My meal cost €18.50 (burger with bacon, side of fries, glass of wine and a cookie to go)
So just because you are in Paris, doesn’t mean you need to go only to French cafes in search of the “authentic” meal and experience (I will have a post on three French foodie finds soon). You can easily find a bit of the local experience at these American diners in Paris – your American stomach will thank you!
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Walking around a travel expo floor can be overwhelming with so many travel vendors, destination marketing folks and travel products competing for your attention. Tables are lined with gorgeous marketing brochures to draw you in and the expert teams are there to answer questions and tell you about their offerings (ok, there was one guy at one table who when I approached continued to play on his phone the entire time and ignore me!? Not the best salesman in my opinion). The most passionate folks are usually the ones you want to spend more time with – Visit Alaska, Travel Beyond, Quark Expeditions and G Adventures are a few favorites that I visit each year. So what travel booths drew me in this year? What brochures did I bring home to plan my lottery winning dreams? Here are my Top 5 Offbeat Travel Finds for 2016 Travel (in no order).
The Offbeat Travel Destinations
Romania
“Simply Surprising and Surprisingly Diverse” is the tagline. Much more than Dracula and Olympia gymnasts. With fairy tale castles, medieval towns like Transylvania and the painted monasteries, you can easily visit the history. If you want nature, there are the Carpathian Mountains, the Black Sea beach resorts and natural spas and the Danube Delta, Europe’s biggest wetland. Crave a city scene of museums, architecture and restaurants, Bucharest is an option. I feel like I’m going to hear more folks considering Romania in the future as they look to discover new, somewhat undiscovered, places. I know that I had hoped (before my injury last summer) to go to Transylvania for the summer film festival so it’s been on my radar for a while. For more information and to plan a visit to Romania, visit the Romania Tourism site.
Malta
Ok, I know that I visited Malta last summer but according to the folks at the Malta table I missed so much by staying only on the island of Gozo, which is 1/3 the size of Malta. I don’t disagree, the more I read about Malta, the more I realize that I need to go back. Cruise ships are now stopping for a day in the Grand Harbour of Valletta which means they’ve realized there is a hidden gem in the Med and more folks are discovering the country (which is good and bad because it’s a great secret).
[embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bPXN0W1NR4[/embedyt]
Malta is a good year round option (my friend just spend Christmas on the islands and loved it). The islands are home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in addition to a plethora of churches and monuments and Game of Thrones filming locations (if you are a fan). You are going to hear a lot more about Malta when Valetta becomes the European Capital of Culture of 2018. So why not discover this unique set of islands south of Sicily on your next trip to Europe? Malta is a quick flight from many European cities via AirMalta which has codeshares from the U.S. connecting in Europe. Visit Malta has a comprehensive site to learn more.
The Offbeat Travel Cruise Experience
Le boat –Self Guided Boat Tours in Europe
This is perhaps one of coolest things you can do on your next European vacation. You rent a boat for your family and friends and travel through the waterways of Europe on a self guided tour. Don’t have a boating license, no worries, you don’t need one as you travel one way through the small canals (Germany is an exception in some parts). I was told it’s like driving a car and with a top speed of 6 knots (6.9 mph) so this is a leisurely trip. You will be given a safety overview and training to maneuver the boat to moor along the canals and then off you go. With over 900 boats in the fleet ranging from sleeping a family of four up to twelve people, they have range of options to choose from.
[embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCuM_MsEKvg[/embedyt]
Feel like stopping in a small village, just moor the boat and take the bikes into town or arrange for a car to meet you. Explore charming villages, buy local food and wine to picnic along the canal or on your boat. I was instantly sold on this slow travel option which is the river cruise experience on a very intimate scale in the smaller canals and locks of Europe. As for safety, think of the sides of the canals as bumpers and don’t hit either side – you should be fine depending on who you nominate as “captain”. You equip your boat with as many bells and whistles as you like – visit the Le Boat website to learn more.
Aranui 5 – “Discover the Marquesas the Aranui Way – the Journey of a Lifetime”
I was ready to sign up for this cruise at the table once I heard “single cabins”. The Marquesas Islands are 850 miles northeast of Tahiti in the South Pacific and this ship is part luxury cruise ship, part container freighter delivering goods to the islands. So you get the best of both worlds as you sail into small ports on the island to deliver materials and be welcomed by locals. The ships carries 254 people and offers a few single rooms (yeah!!!) and a dormitory styled room in addition to the many luxury appointed rooms and suites.
Looking to escape the larger cruise ship, explore a new culture and sail in the South Pacific leaving from Tahiti then add the Aranui 5 to your trip list. I’ve always wanted to go to Tahiti and Bora Bora but as a solo traveler I’m not keen on being singled out among the honeymooners and couples so a cruise is a great option for me to get to the South Pacific and see it. Visit the Ananui 5 website for more info and a fun music medley to instantly make you smile.
Fathom – “Social & Sustainable Impact Travel”
The main goal of the repurposed Adonia, a Carnival Corporation ship, holding just 704 passengers is to combine travel and voluntourism (they prefer “combining travel with sustainable social impact activities”). The itineraries, there are just two right now, go to the Dominican Republic and soon to launch (pending approval) Cuba. You can enjoy the cruise experience with cultural immersion activities on the ship (lectures, food, music, etc.) and then spend a few days on shore volunteering with Impact Activities. No worries, there is also time in the DR for fun shore activities too (Cuba is still under a people to people requirement so you can’t freely move about yet).
[embedyt] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIxexpzGgsw[/embedyt]
This is not the new island every day cruise. I was intrigued by the concept of a social impact cruise – great for folks of all ages and families. There is a single supplement (boo!!) unless you go with roommate matching. I’m excited to learn more about this and the impact of the passenger visits as it’s a starting point. Even though you are volunteering for a portion of the trip, it is not tax deductible (it’s Carnival Corporation folks so they are in it for the profit that’s what companies do – create profitable products). It’s a smart business move to create a product that lures new cruise ship passengers who want to give back to the communities they visit. Visit the Fathom website for more information.
So these are my top 5 offbeat travel finds at the NY Times Travel Show 2016, do any of them intrigue you like they did me? Thoughts? Let me know if you want to learn more about these travel finds and how I can help you plan your trip.
If my vacation to Malta had started at the Kempinski Gozo, I wouldn’t have fractured my foot, my time on the island and subsequent travels would have been vastly changed as well as my relationships. After a nightmare Airbnb experience, we left early (FLED or ESCAPED is a better term) to the luxury hotel on the island. I called early Sunday morning about a same day reservation and the price was the same as online (sometimes calling helps, sometimes it doesn’t) and included a full breakfast. We drove from one end of the island to the other passing the limestone sameness of the streets and homes only to enter the driveway of the hotel and truly be in another world far, far away. The abundance of green landscaping against the limestone was quite welcoming.
Kempinski Gozo Location
Gozo is a small island with a plethora of villages. The hotel is in the San Lawrenz village not far from the Azure Window. The hotel name is Kempinski San Lawrenz but more easily called the Kempinski Gozo Malta. The hotel has 120 rooms in various categories as well as 60 residences in a separate wing (the residences can be rented for short and long term stays).
Arrival
We used the self-park option (no charge) and entered with only our overnight bags as it would be a one night stay. My foot was so swollen from my fall the night before that I could barely walk on it. At check-in, the manager, whom I spoke with earlier on the phone, was just wonderful. He offered the name of their doctor on call and walked us to our room, which seemed to be miles away (when you can’t walk, everything seems football fields away).
We walked past the massive lobby with its high ceilings and grand stairs (leading to the breakfast area). We took the elevator down two floors and began the long walk with a turn at the sumptuous spa (you get pool towels here) which had indoor pools, two which are heated (the spa menu was divine). We turned again and halfway down the hall stopped at our room. He opened the door and it was like magic as our bad luck and gross rental memories quickly evaporated.
A Suite Surprise
The manager was able to upgrade us to a larger room with a living room and balcony overlooking the pool area (one downside was the noise from the squash courts below but it was a Sunday so the noise ended early). I booked a standard room (there are 83 rooms) and he moved us up two categories to a Junior Suite (there are 37 suites)! He walked us through the room to show us all the features and I was thrilled to have air-conditioning and a fancy bathroom. My friend was happy with the free (fast) Wi-Fi and sun from the balcony. We were getting a do-over to our first vacation together.
The Room (Junior Suite)
As you enter, the room seems massive and long. The bathroom is on the right and you walk into the bedroom area with a large desk space and closets. Further afield past the draped curtains, there is the living room with couch, minibar, table and television. It is a large space that leads to the small balcony with two chairs overlooking the pool area and garden. I was totally in my element of a luxury hotel, my friend, not accustomed to the posh life was taking it all in. He said he could get used to this type of vacation – I think we all could.
The Bathroom
With a contemporary design, the bathroom was equipped with a sunken tub, walk in shower, two plush robes, slippers (yeah!) and pleasant (chipmunk worthy) Kempinski branded toiletries.
Room Service
There was a knock at the door and I was surprised to see a delivery of a big bowl of ice for my foot. The manager had arranged this to be delivered after he left us. This was an exceptionally good start to the stay – personal attention without saying a word.
As we were still a bit shell shocked from the prior three days of bad luck (injured foot, bug bites, etc.) I ordered lunch from room service so we could sit in the sun and enjoy the view from the balcony. The delivery was quick (same guy who delivered the ice) and the presentation lovely. The burgers were just what we needed on a lazy Sunday before going for a swim.
The Balcony
With two chairs in the shade and room to move them to the sunny side of the balcony, we could both be happy – me in the shade, my friend in the sun. The balcony also included a railing to hang wet clothes to dry. As the hotel wasn’t crowded on a June Sunday, it was quite nice to be outside in relative quiet. If only the pool wasn’t calling our names…..
The Kempinski Gozo Pools
There are multiple pools on the property but as it was early June only one seemed in use. As the sun was starting to hide behind the clouds and the winds picked up, we were determined to go swimming on this vacation so we went to the spa for our towels (I was tempted to stay in the spa) and found two lounge chairs.
While the outside air was slightly cool, once in the water it was warm and relaxing. I was now washing away the yuckiness of this vacation to begin again as I started a lap around the big pool. We managed three laps around before the staff started closing the pool area by stacking the chairs. We laughed at our timing but even three laps was enough for us to enjoy.
Restaurants
There are multiple restaurants as well as a few bars (pool, lobby, wine) on the property and sadly (well part of our luck) the one we wanted, the Mediterranean one, L’Ortolan, was closed on Sunday so we dined at the Italian restaurant, Trattoria San Lawrenz. The service was attentive as it should be as there were so few tables occupied either inside or outside on the patio with us. It was a moonlit night and with wine and chocolate we were happy.
For breakfast, served in L’Ortolan, the hotel buffet goes all out with impressive array of offerings, an egg station with chef as well as hot to order service. I ate my body weight in fresh fruits, chocolate croissants and was thrilled to get a sunny side up egg! After more than a month away in Spain and Italy, finding a proper runny egg was a thrill, having a croissant to mop it up just heavenly. The breakfast was included in the room rate. The buffet also offered the local Maltese pastry, pastizzi, which I tried. It is a savoury puff pastry usually filled with ricotta or mushy peas (not sure mushy peas pairs well with fresh squeezed orange juice at breakfast).
All the Stuff We Missed
I was gutted that I couldn’t use the spa during our quick one night stay. It truly looked amazing! With a range of body services, a hammam, steam baths, jacuzzi and heated pools, it offered everything I would normally try if I was traveling solo. There is a full gym, squash and tennis courts but with an injured foot, I couldn’t use them. The hotel listing of services and amenities was quite vast so there was so much more…. We did steal a few moment before checkout relaxing on the outdoor patio overlooking the property.
Final Thoughts
The Kempinski Gozo Malta was an amazing escape and allowed us to hit reset on our vacation (until we got to the parking lot and found a dead battery in the rental car but that’s another story). The staff was top notch attentive to our needs and friendly.
The hotel is its own oasis on the island which means you can’t really walk to the nearest store or town (you need a car) and frankly, there’s no need to leave if you want to splash out on a luxury resort stay, however, do leave to see these wonderful views. If we had only started our vacation here first, it would have been a totally different holiday. On my next visit to Gozo, I’m definitely going back to the Kempinski Gozo for more than one night to start my holiday off on a good note (or starting off on the right foot -haha!).
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I’m not a fan of connecting flights and try my best to book a direct flight as often as possible. Unfortunately, my London deal included connecting in Manchester UK and I had fingers crossed that all would go well as I wasn’t familiar with the airport and had one hour and fifteen minutes to get from the international arrivals to domestic departures. I called British Airways before booking the ticket to confirm it was a legal and doable connection time as I had my doubts, especially as BA tend to close the gates 1/2 hour before departure. My guess was that I had about 45, maybe 50 minutes to do the connection. For me, too many things can go wrong trying to make a connection – delays at the airport (gate, equipment, FAA, weather), on the plane (equipment, FAA, weather, long runway waits, passengers) and when you try to deplane (seat in back, slow passengers exiting, no jet way, stairs to transfer busses, etc.). All of these are before you deal with the new airport obstacles – long walks, bus shuttles or trains to change terminals, additional security lines or the immigration lines. Add the fact that it’s an overnight flight and jet lag is slowly seeping in as I didn’t sleep and stress levels run high. I was comforted (at first) because I was going from Terminal 3 to Terminal 3 (or so I thought) but disappointed by lack of online information on how to connect from AA to BA in MAN.
Arriving in Manchester, UK
My American Airlines flight from Philadelphia would arrive in Manchester (UK) at Terminal 3, ten minutes early, at 8:30 a.m. I had already sorted my onward British Airways flight at 9:55 a.m. by checking in via the BA app for my boarding pass as I was traveling carry on (suitcase and backpack) only. With tight connections, I won’t check bags. When we arrived, the business class passengers were let off first so I had a good head start into my ticking time clock.
Manchester Airport – The Transfer Lounge
It felt like a long walk just to get to the terminal before entering the airport arrivals toward immigration. As I was connecting to a domestic flight, I had to look for the “connections” signs. These were a bit confusing but then I saw the door on the right with the yellow sign. Had I been preoccupied talking or not aware, I would have missed it as I was first off plane and not following anyone. There were stairs and a lift (elevator). With bags, I chose the lift to go down to Level 1 (I wasn’t in mood to carry suitcase down steps).
Once I arrived on the lower level, I found the waiting room (bussing lounge). The connections terminal waiting room has big yellow signs with instructions as well as television monitors. I didn’t care about any of that, I was looking for the bus to transfer us to the connections center in Terminal 1 despite the fact that I was in Terminal 3 and my flight was scheduled to leave from Terminal 3. The bus was scheduled every ten minutes and it was a few minutes late so I was antsy.
The Manchester Airport Bus Ride
The driver arrived and the seven of us (two German couples and a couple of guys from Eastern Europe and me) showed our boarding passes for the connecting flights and were quickly on the bus and driven to the connections terminal. He was very nice to welcome us and answer my questions. The bus drove for about five minutes airside to drop us off at the connections terminal.
The Connections Terminal
While the group with backpacks only used the stairs up, I used the lift and despite being first off the bus was last in the security line. Lucky for us, we were the only people at security so no need to wait in the rope off queue area. Again you need to show your boarding pass so it’s key to have this before you leave the U.S. either the paper version or e-version.
Each person had a security issue that caused the screening to go slowly that I wanted to scream “seriously how do you not know to take off your belt?” and “are you kidding me, you are taking his toiletries out of the plastic bag to put into your UK plastic bag” with a dash of obscenities. After ten plus minutes, it was my turn and I quickly put my bags up, laptop out, liquids out, etc. and breezed through only to get stopped by another security person. He asked for my boarding pass and told me to wait on the right for immigration. The rest of the group was ok to proceed as they held E.U. passports but I had to sit and wait. The security officer called the Immigration officer to come to the desk.
Manchester Airport Immigration
At Heathrow, the immigration line is never fun as it seems unending groups of people teem in from all directions and queue up for the long wait. In Manchester Airport, it was just me and the immigration officer once he arrived. With just me, had time to ask me more questions than normal. My answers: Holiday (Vacation) ….for my birthday…..Accountant….friend in the UK….I used to work for a city firm…..etc. Once I answered the questions, I was free to exit into the terminal to go find my gate. Surprisingly, the bus drove me from Terminal 3 to Terminal 1, yet I exited into Terminal 3?
Manchester to London on British Airways
I exited at 9:10 a.m. across from Gate 14 and wasn’t sure whether to turn right or left to Gate 18 so of course, I turned right only to realize I needed to go left. I quickly found the bathroom first as I had skipped my normal off the plane stop so I didn’t lose connection time. I then found the gate nearby and bought water (for £2) from a vending machine (since I had to throw out my Smartwater I brought in Philly) and watched the plane arrive emptying its passengers. I had made it just in time as the gate began to fill with passengers who had walked from the waiting lounge at Gate 150 (in the UK they don’t announce gates until close to departure). British Airways now has lines (queues) set up so I was able to stand in the priority line as a BA Bronze member. BA started the boarding process at 9:23 a.m. for the 9:55 a.m. flight.
Connecting in Manchester from AA to BA
I was frantic with the connection and made it because all was on time. It took less than an hour (about 40 minutes) to go from plane to gate but if I had been in coach waiting to deplane, encountered a crowded security line or waited longer for the immigration officer, I probably would have missed my connection. One hour and fifteen minutes was wishful thinking and this time it worked, next time, I might connect with the later flight and relax in the lounge first.
When the amazing British Airways deal popped up for two days in October, I was a bit too slow to jump on a direct flight to London so I ended up with a British Airways codeshare flying Philadelphia to Manchester UK on American Airlines (formerly USAirways) connecting to British Airways onward to London. The upside is that the former USAirways business class cabin is a 1-2-1 configuration with only twenty seats in the cabin over five rows (for comparison, the British Airways First Class is 1-2-1, while their Business Class called Club World is 2-4-2). American Airlines does have a swanky new business class seat and cabin to London but it’s not available out of Philadelphia – you can find it on the B777-300ER planes from JFK, LAX and some flights from MIA and DFW. The downside of my flight to London was the unknown change at Manchester that gave me one hour and fifteen minutes (I’m not a fan of connections especially tight ones – would I make my flight to London?). Before I worried about that part, I had time to relax in the lounge.
The American Airlines Lounge at PHL
While I was on a British Airways codeshare flight flying American Airlines out of PHL, I was entitled to use the massive American Airlines Lounge prior to the flight or the much smaller British Airways lounge. I’ve reviewed the lounge in Terminal A West before when it was was part of USAirways. Not much has changed except the name. The lounge was pin drop quiet for the most part and relatively empty giving me plenty of seating options.
The A330 Cabin & Seat
Since I’ve flown this type of cabin before on the A330 from Paris (then called USAirways Envoy), I booked the window seat, 4H, which gave me plenty of space. The last row was empty and no one was across from me. I was welcomed by the flight crew with champagne or orange juice as is customary on all business class flights I’ve flown thus far. The flight attendants offered a selection of newspapers as well as a Bose headset to use during the flight (collected an hour before landing).
The seat contained a pillow and duvet in a sealed bag. The amenity kit was left on the shelf. The seat is on an angle and has a heavy duty padded seatbelt. The side pocket has a place for a bottle of water but unlike the Paris flight which had a bottle of water at the welcome, my side pocket would stay empty the entire flight (annoying to have to ask for a bottle water). The seat had all features needed for a comfortable flight – reading light, remote, charging area. Be careful not to lose your devices in the space between the wall and the seat. I didn’t use the IFE (in flight entertainment) this time as I was content to catch up on magazines and books that I brought with me.
AA Business Class Meal Service Philadelphia to Manchester UK
When I fly international airlines, I tend to order a lactose free (aka take your chances on what you get) or low calorie meal (usually a simple chicken) but flying American Airlines, I didn’t have this option so I ate a sandwich before arriving at the airport. How surprised was I that not only was I hungry when the food was served after the 9 p.m. takeoff but that I ate it all! I said yes to the wine and nuts.
Yes, to the Thai chicken with pineapple appetizer (a refreshing start).
I passed on the salad option and ordered the Almond crusted chicken with spinach and rice.
I definitely left room for dessert which was chocolate mousse (I had to pass on the ice cream or cheese plate) accompanied by Lactaid pills.
Paired with a French red wine and a pretzel roll (one of five bread choices and a popular one), my dinner was quite good. I was already taking indulging in my mantra “no calories on vacation”. My business class meal was simple and quite tasty which is a rarity for me to find on flights. It might not be a foodies paradise but that’s perfect for me. Here is the rest of the menu.
The table was a bit unstable when trying to cut my food as it moved up and down a bit so be mindful of that. I was surprised that the table didn’t move forward enough so I adjusted my seat position to be closer to my food (leaning into it). I still managed to drop the butter as I misjudged the edge thereby watching the butter slide down the front of my legs onto the floor. But hey, no rice mess which is a miracle!
I passed on breakfast as I had brought a banana and almond butter packet with me.
The American Airline Heritage Amenity Kit
American Airlines is celebrating their heritage with special toiletry kits to remember all nine of the airlines that now make up it’s employee base. My kit, a cool grey felt exterior which when emptied can carry a computer tablet, was orange and grey based in honor of American Airlines. The bag contained all the usual items – toothbrush/toothpaste, mouthwash, socks, sleep mask, tissues, ear plugs, tissues, a pen and red flower cremes that USAirways previously provided.
The Philadelphia to Manchester UK Business Class Cabin Crew
The crew were friendly in business class but not overly attentive – they were pretty militant about it all keeping on schedule and following the agenda. When I jumped ahead to say “no breakfast”, I was told, she didn’t ask about that yet and would do so later. She pink highlighted my dinner choices and was off. After welcome aboard drinks, there was the hot towel distribution followed by pre-dinner drinks & nuts before dinner service started.
Dinner was served quickly and didn’t last for hours as other airlines I’ve flown has and this was actually welcome. I was a bit surprised by having to ask for a bottle of water once the lights went out for sleeping as other airlines automatically give you this. I was even more surprised that water wasn’t automatically at my seat in the water bottle slot. The American flight crew didn’t ask questions, didn’t try to ply me with unlimited wine or try to get to know me the way British Airways staff does. They got the job done and were only a call button away if needed.
Connecting at Manchester, UK to London
I called British Airways before I booked my ticket to ensure that the short connection time (under two hours) would suffice and was told it would be ok. I was skeptical so packed carry on (hand baggage) only not wanting to arrive without baggage. I also made sure there was another flight to London as alternative in case we were late and I missed the connection. Luckily, I had my onward British Airways boarding pass on my phone using the BA app in order to make the connection (you need to have your onward boarding pass in order to make the connection as you won’t see anyone from the airline to help). Look for the upcoming post on “How to Connect in Manchester”.
Overall Impression
The business class flight from Philadelphia to Manchester UK on American Airlines was fine for my jaunt over the pond to London. The American Airlines flight to London via Manchester is a good alternative to the often higher priced direct British Airways fares for their Club World business class product. You do need a bit of patience and sense of humor with the connection and hand baggage policies but if you find a great price like I did to London, $856, or want to use miles/points, the AA PHL-MAN-LHR is a good option.
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My friend said to “book the quirky Airbnb house on Gozo” when I gave him a few choices for our last minute trip as he was more familiar with the island than I was. He wanted a private pool and a farmhouse. I still blame him for our calamities!
Walking past the pool and into the house after 10 p.m. as we missed the ferry, we immediately had a bad feeling about this place. The host made up only one of the four bedrooms (we wanted our own bedrooms) and showed us around, indicating what items were broken. I saw something move in the dark, the host stepped on the bug and said “we are in the country, there are bugs”. With that, she was off and we were hungry after a very long travel day full of delays and a missed ferry to the island. We would need to drive to another village on the island in the hopes of finding food near 11pm on a Thursday. Lucky for us, the café just agreed to let a table sit down and would serve us. Back at the house, in the dark we promised to explore the house and property more in the morning. Full of wine, with fans on and windows opened we passed out exhausted from the stressful day.
Wandering in the Light of Day
I woke up first and took to exploring the house and the compound of three other farmhouses. In the daylight, my findings were a bit dire. First off, the Wi-Fi didn’t work in the house, I needed to go to the caretaker’s house (he was away) and stand on the top step or go inside (which I attempted but it was messy with uneaten bread on the table). Then I looked into the other houses past the odd garden made up of tile, glass bottles and dead plants. Our pool, while clear, had algae on the steps, walls and floor – we would not be using that.
The house itself had dust and trash behind the couch. The couch, well-worn had obvious stains and weirdly a child’s dirty stuffed animal on it as well as christmas holiday towels. The space wasn’t ready for our arrival.
The upstairs cushions to put on the deck had mold, the wooden table was missing wood with rusty nails sticking out. The grill was rusted (no food was going on that thing despite my tetanus shot). The kitchen sink had only one of two faucets working (the host mentioned that on the quick tour the night before). The other bedrooms both upstairs and downstairs had shoved in all of the extra supplies, furniture and equipment – all dusty and full of cobwebs. It felt that the house hadn’t been open yet for the season and we were the first guests. Despite booking a week in advance, nothing seemed ready to welcome us.
Key Take Away: Take photos of everything! If you have any issues with the property (even a 5 star hotel) it’s always best to have photo evidence when discussing concerns with the host, Airbnb or hotel staff. Research the property on all property rental sites if you can.
The Quirky House
The house had potential, it really did, it just needed a good cleaning, consistent décor that wasn’t weird and to be set up for visitors. But sadly, it was missing all three of those things. The bathrooms were a mixed bag – the faucet in one was turned off and barely dripping, with black mold around, the other had a rusted toilet that made noises and the powder room was darkly lit.
The stairs had a loose step (I made a mental note not to trip on that going up and down) and outside the bedroom was an uneven last step that was filled in but not level. Our bedroom was weirdly decorated and there were no screens in the windows. We had fans to provide a bit of cool air in the otherwise humid room. The bed frame was custom made of wood to support the double queen size. Downstairs there was a plant growing inside the house with so many dead leaves and a vine that grew across the wall that we needed to duck under to reach the stairs. Of course, with plants there are flying bugs, etc.
It’s Dirty
So I assessed that the place was dirty. I’m sure we’ve all encountered something like this (or worse) in college but I was surprised that this was allowed to be rented on Airbnb. It was Friday morning and we were scheduled to be here until Tuesday before moving to my friend’s family house which the rental agent was cleaning for us. They needed to clean the house before we could move in, apparently our Airbnb host didn’t get the “clean the house memo”. The island was sold out that weekend so our options to move were few and the prices quite high so I added a few cleaning supplies to our shopping list. Pif Paf, the European version of Raid!, was a lifesaver!
My friend slept past noon and woke up with more than ten mosquito bites on his back, arms and legs. He agreed the place was dirty and we tried to figure out how we would stay here not knowing what else to do. I texted the host for a hairdryer Friday morning as none was provided. We left the house to explore the island and tried to stay out as long as we could to avoid the house.
On Saturday (no hair dryer yet), my friend woke up with bug bites on his wrists. This time they appeared as boil like, fluid filled arranged in a circle of five on one arm and one on the other. In a word – GROSS!
Key Take Aways: First impressions! One of my own suggestions with European hotels is to view the room/property in the daytime not at night so that you have time to sort out alternative options. Also, on the first showing with the host, confirm that all items noted as provided are available. Bring Bug Spray!
Airbnb Response
I sent an email to Airbnb asking what to do about the dirty house as I looked for alternatives. The host had a generous cancellation policy so I sent a text to cancel our Monday night stay, well within her policy. The rep replied quickly that I should have contacted them within 24 hours to work out the situation with the host. I told them it was my first time renting with Airbnb and I didn’t know about this policy. I explained that the host wasn’t replying to text messages about the hairdryer or the canceled last night. The rep asked me to send photos to him showing the house condition. I told him I would once I got Wi-Fi reception as the house didn’t have it.
Key Take Away: Contact Airbnb by email or phone immediately if you feel that the property is dirty or unsafe. They will work to accommodate you elsewhere and talk with the host. If you feel unsafe or something doesn’t seem right, leave immediately and then call/contact Airbnb from a safe location.
The Vacation Injury
As I was getting ready for dinner, I came out of the bedroom and the uneven step threw me into the hallway and I heard a “pop” and couldn’t move my foot. Trying not to cry in front of my friend (silly, I know), I yelled out his name and he came up the stairs to help me try to stand (not easily). He helped me downstairs (we both stepped gingerly on the loose step) to the couch which I was putting paper towels on the pillows and went to the freezer for ice (we had none but we did have a frozen pitcher with a stain around the inside that I wouldn’t use).
By this time the caretaker was back, he introduced himself earlier in the day with his dog. He had brought the hairdryer to me (a bit late after air drying my hair for two days). My friend went to the caretakers house, explained that I had fallen on the steps and was given ice after the caretaker said “you guys are not having any luck here”. Icing my foot, my friend went for takeaway pizza as I opened the bottle of wine. We decided that we would leave in the morning as we couldn’t take it anymore. I would visit the clinic and get an x-ray on my foot – it was bruised & fractured which greatly affected the rest of my trip as I hobbled around for the next month.
Key Takeaway: You should always make sure you have your own health & travel insurance for any injuries that require medical assistance. Also, make sure you have wine around for your pity party.
Let’s Restart this Holiday
In the morning, I called the five star hotel on the island, the Kempinski Gozo, and explained I was fleeing the Airbnb with an injured foot. My friend and I packed our bags in the car and headed out to restart our holiday. The hotel provided us an upgraded room with a view of the pool. We were able to sit in the sun and relax for the first time since arriving on the island.
Airbnb was quick to respond once they received the photos – they provided credits and an apology as well as intercede with the host who posted negative and libelous comments about me which violated the rules of Airbnb. I was quite happy with their response to my plight.
I can’t stress enough the importance of researching properties – while I found a few postive reviews on Airbnb, it took a while during my stay to find negative reviews on another property site which were spot on with the issues I encountered. If only I found that one first!
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You want to go to Paris? Great, now where to stay? If you are like me, you often default to the US chain hotels such Marriott, Hilton and Starwood first and then have massive sticker shock when you find a room and do both conversions – Euro € to US $ and room size from meters to square feet. But it’s Paris and you shouldn’t be looking at the U.S. chains but instead finding something uniquely Paris…..like a Paris boutique hotel rather than an expense account business hotel where breakfasts are expensive (think $40+). Just looking at TripAdvisor, you will see over 1,700 hotel options, excluding the more than 6,000 other lodging options available. It’s just too overwhelming to find a starting point. If you use a travel agent, you will get a good mix of options to choose from but chances are you are an online warrior looking to plan your dream trip to the city of lights.
Over the years, my Paris hotel strategy has evolved and I now look to stay in smaller, boutique properties around the city’s many neighborhoods called arrondissements. Note I said smaller which means in total rooms as well as size. A smaller hotel tends to feel a bit more private with fewer staff who get to know you quickly and are keen to assist you. No doubt about it, Paris hotel rooms will be small at the entry level pricing but hopefully, you’ve traveled to Paris to see the sights so being comfortable is important but you aren’t spending all day in your room. I’ve survived small inside rooms on cruise ships and small rooms in NYC so having a window and a bit of sunlight is a bonus.
Having visited Paris now three times in the past two years, I continue to search for cool Paris boutique hotels and these are the three hotels and neighborhoods that I really enjoyed on my recent visits.
Paris Boutique Hotel in the 5th Arrondissement
Hotel Atmospheres
Arrondissement – 5th
Neighborhood– Saint Germain/Sorbonne/Notre Dame
Metro Lines – Line 10 – Maubert Mutualité, RER (B or C) – Saint Michel – Notre Dame
Number of Rooms: 56
Single Twin Room starting at €139, Double starting at €157 per night
Website: Hotel Atmospheres
Read the Review Hotel Atmospheres Review
This colorful hotel is great for a first time visit to Paris as you can walk to the Seine and Notre Dame in less than ten minutes. The hotel is a showcase for the photography of Theirry Des Ouches.
With just 56 rooms, the hotel manages to serve all room types from a single room to a family room. The open lobby has a spiral staircase leading to the breakfast room and spa/gym on the basement floor. A funky honor bar is located in the lobby as well as an outdoor space (for smokers). I’ve stayed in a third floor room twin room with my niece and a second floor double room. Each room was unique in color and floorplan – hey is that a Space Invader in my shower?
Paris Boutique Hotel in the 11th Arrondissement
Hotel Fabric – Oberkampf
Arrondissement – 11th
Neighborhood – Bastille or Oberkampf
Metro Lines – The hotel is served by four metro lines – 3, 5, 8 and 9. The closest to the hotel was St. Ambroise on line 9 with Richard Lenoir (line 5) and Oberkampf (lines 5 and 9) a short walk.
Total Number of Rooms: 33
Club Room starting at €192 per night
Website: Hotel Fabric
Read the Review of Hotel Fabric
This converted factory to hotel is located in the French neighborhood of Oberkampf a bit off the tourist path. The high ceilings in our twin room were a welcome change from the smaller rooms in Paris. The room is still on the small side but doesn’t feel that way. Like other design hotels, the lobby space is a lovely gathering spot for breakfast, playing games, working (which you shouldn’t do on vacation) or checking in on social media. Bring your translation app as the area is more French speaking than English. My favorite dinner at La Villaret (no website), the bartender spoke a bit of English to assist but I relied on my Word Lens app to translate the menu. It was an incredible dinner as we sat outside listening to the music of the street festival (block party) nearby.
Paris Boutique Hotel in the 15th Arrondissement
Hotel Platine
Arrondissement – 15th
Neighborhood – 1.7 km from Eiffel Tower and a block from the Seine
Metro Lines – Line 10 Charles Michel, RER (C) Javel
Number of Rooms: 46
Double Room (albeit small) starting at €119 on promotion
Website: Platine Hotel
Read the Review of Platine Hotel
This gem of a Paris boutique hotel I found on Hotel Tonight, saving more than $100 each night based on other website prices. Built around a Marilyn Monroe theme of classic glamour and elegance, this was a fun find. The room was small as the door hit the bed upon entry but the design was perfect. The bed was so comfortable and quiet it was hard to leave and explore the city. The staff was quick to reply to my email request for an airport transfer. Check-in was conversational and informational and every time I passed the front desk, I was greeted. Friendly staff was a highlight.
The location is another highlight – a block from the Seine, 10-15 minute walk to the Eiffel Tower and the new Beaugrenelle mall across the street containing all the shops you need without fighting the tourists in the city center.
So these are my new favorite Paris boutique hotel options offering up fabulous style, attentive staff and a memorable experience that isn’t the cookie cutter Western hotel.
For those of you concerned about ratings, remember that TripAdvisor has over 1,700 hotels with ratings constantly changing – at last check, Hotel Fabric is #22, Atmospheres #89 and Platine #179, each with a 4.5+ rating and in the top 10% of hotels. In comparison, the Westin, where I’ve stayed on points in the past (otherwise TOO expensive) is #588. Paris is about discovery, small rooms and magic so find some fun in a new Paris boutique hotel.
Do you have a favorite small Paris boutique hotel that you want to share with us? I’d love to try other boutique hotels and wander about a new arrondissement.
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Marilyn Monroe was glamorous and her image lives on in Paris at the Platine Hotel, a four star boutique hotel find on Hotel Tonight under the “hip” category. I booked a week in advance ($215 a night was awesome deal saving over $100 a night) which is a nice feature of the app since the original inception of “tonight only”. A hotel based on the iconic movie star is a pretty cool concept but it’s so interesting that this concept of “old Hollywood glamour” is such a throwback it’s fun. Located in Paris just ups the glam factor.
Location
The hotel is in a new part of Paris for me, located in the 15th arr about a block from the Seine and about a 10-15 minute walk to the Eiffel Tower. The hotel is located behind the Beaugrenelle mall which has a fantastic selection of shops, food (patisserie, chocolates and restaurants) and entertainment (a Pathe movie theatre). Rather than fight the crowds in the center of Paris (i.e. H&M, Zara, etc.) you can easily shop at the mall and enjoy the experience.
There’s no reason to leave the area as I had pretty much everything I wanted in short walking distance, but this is Paris and despite my injured foot I did hobble out and about. The metro, line 10 Charles Michel, is a block away from the hotel. The RER C is also nearby. This was my first time in the area and really liked it.
Pre-Arrival
I sent an email to the staff inquiring about airport shuttle option since I couldn’t walk with the fractured foot and luggage. In the past I was left behind at the airport by one company so I wanted to have the comfort of knowing that a driver with my name on the board was waiting for me. I received an email with options quickly and despite being expensive as expected, I had them book it for me.
Check In/Lobby
Arriving at the hotel, I was greeted immediately by both staff at the front desk as well as a wall of Marilyn Monroe flanked by movie lights. It was the friendliest check in as they inquired about my visit, where I had just been and telling me about the hotel and the neighborhood highlights.
With my key in hand I walked to the small elevator next to the breakfast room. The elevator was playing a loop of classic Marilyn Monroe movies dubbed in French. The black and white films in the red-lit elevators was an instant reminder of the movie star and the age of glamour and classic Hollywood.
The lobby had checked rugs, black and yellow leather furniture with silver accents throughout. A small honesty bar which turns into the lobby bar later in the day.
My Classic Room – Room 407
The hotel has just 46 rooms and I had booked the smallest room of 14m (approx. 150 sq. ft.) which I was reminded of when I opened the door and it hit the bed. Having survived Room 409 in NYC and a plethora of cruise ship cabins, I was ready for the Paris room. The instant cool factor made me overlook the size as I was only sleeping here. With a wire chair in the corner, the color scheme was gold, black and Marilyn.
The Queen bed was center with a closet on the right and another storage space on the left. The left included the minibar and safe. Above the bed were the room light buttons and reading lights, all within an arms reach while in bed. Walking around the bed was snug for one person as there is a side table with a mounted flat screen television above.
The bed was very soft which is good if you like to feel enveloped in comfort. The room had a window with a backyard view of the concrete walls, but hey it was a window for natural light.
The Funky Bathroom
The bathroom is compact with a good-sized shower with funky blue lights. Not really sure why the lights in the shower were sparkling and blue but who am I to argue, I turned them on and enjoyed the rain shower. **Note that the door is clear glass so you can always see in, alone I was fine but if traveling with another person, this might be a problem**
The bathroom slippers are adorable with a famous Marilyn saying of “poupou pidou” with a checkered pattern and a bit of pink. The toiletries are hotel branded.
Breakfast Room
Without an agenda, I slept in each day and missed breakfast (small buffet for €15). I chose to go across the street to the mall and get a croissant and OJ from the patisserie for under €5 (McDonald’s and Starbucks are nearby as well). The breakfast room has a black and white tile floor, cotton candy colors and movie set chairs which definitely set the scene.
Lobby Bar, Gym and Hotel Spa
The lobby converts into a bar for a few hours. The basement has a gym, Turkish stream bath and sauna for guest use as well as treatment rooms (massage €90).
The Paris Taxi Strike
The hotel put up a notice in the elevator about the Paris one day taxi strike that was announced. Thankfully, I didn’t need a cab on the day of the strike. Unfortunately, I needed on the day after and no one was answering the cab lines so I used Uber for the first time at a 1.9 surge price. The hotel said that guests had luck with Uber which was ironic since the taxis were striking against Uber Pop and Uber was earning more business.
Overall Impression
Diamonds are a girl’s best friend and The Platine hotel is definitely a diamond in Paris, albeit a small diamond but stunning nonetheless. I’d definitely stay here again in the future.
My Hotel Tonight rate was $215 (USD) per night for June booked one week ahead saving me over $100 and I used a promo code for another discount! The rates for this classic room vary from €129 – €315. A great deal on a diamond of a boutique hotel.
If you haven’t tried Hotel Tonight yet use my code SWOLKO1 for a $25 credit on your first booking.
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