After nearly three weeks in Italy and too many pastas, pizzas and bread sticks, when I arrived in Florence, I was on a mission to find The Hard Rock Café Florence. I had left the U.S. a month before on a boat of mediocre food, practically overdosed on the fabulous Spanish foods and drinks and was now desperate for a grilled chicken sandwich with bacon, a side of fries and a lemonade.
My Hard Rock Cafe History
When I first traveled to London in the late 80’s, the Hard Rock Café was a must see. It had a line to get in and this was before the massive expansion throughout the U.S. and the world. There weren’t many cafes at the time so it was a big deal to get the t-shirt, view the rock memorabilia on the walls and have a burger at the counter. Frankly, the food in the U.K. was pretty dreadful back then (thankfully, that’s changed over the years since that first visit) so the Hard Rock Café visit was a highlight.
It was then that I created my list to travel the world to visit all of the Hard Rock Cafes (I’ve met others who did the same). They were in the best cities (London, Paris, Rome, Sydney, etc.). At first, I did ok, visiting Paris, Sydney and Cancun and many others buying the t-shirts for family, shot glasses and pins for friends and enjoying a burger and fries away from the U.S. But then they expanded faster than I could keep up and the novelty wore off as I viewed it as just another chain restaurant especially after the Planet Hollywood incident in Paris. I wanted to explore the city getting away from the touristy restaurants (note that Las Vegas doesn’t count since it’s a casino/hotel first and I usually win there) and find local gems. So for a while, the Hard Rock Cafes were not on my travel to do list.
The Hard Rock Cafe Florence, Italy
It was this recent trip to Italy that my resolve gave out and I needed the Hard Rock Café Florence, well my stomach did anyway. It was why I was circling the streets of Florence with Google Maps telling me I walked too far to turn around on my way to the corner of Piazza della Repubblica. Then I saw it, hidden under cover of a historic building with many vendors outside selling souvenirs. I walked past the velvet ropes (thankfully no line) and walked inside.
It was really nice inside the historic building, formerly a cinema. Looking up at the original, but renovated, chandeliers told me that this wasn’t a normal Hard Rock Cafe. I found out about the cinema history later after the stay but appreciated that the designers were able to keep many of the wonderful features when they build the cafe. On your left is a small coffee cafe bar/lounge area (opens at 8:30 am for those with a coffee habit) with funky seating options while on the right is the merchandise. Walking further inside you reach the hostess stand (you can book advanced reservations online) before entering the larger restaurant and music venue. Yes, the American menu was still on offer, with a few local twists.
Inside the Restaurant and Music Space at the Hard Rock Cafe Florence
I walked down a few steps to the shiny bar in the middle of the room and took a seat, surprisingly there was a nice crowd at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday. Looking past the bar, you can see the stage for musicians/concerts (live music schedule online) and an area to dance. Sadly, there was no music today but no worries, I was happy that the restaurant was open all day (key point especially if you have kids as so many restaurants close after lunch and reopen at 7pm, it’s hard to find a late lunch or early dinner). I was a tourist desperate to eat a meal that didn’t include pizza, pasta or bread sticks and was thrilled that I could eat mid-day.
While I contemplated a burger, or the chicken tenders, I stayed with my initial craving choosing the simple grilled chicken sandwich and adding bacon (yum bacon). The bartender took my order and made my fresh lemonade (expensive but worth it). With a few sips of my drink, my food quickly arrived and I just smiled, giddy with anticipation. Silly, yes I know, but it just seemed healthy (seemed being the key word because I know if I looked up the calories online, the only healthy part of my meal was the ice cubes).
As this was Florence, I couldn’t ignore the numerous gelato possibilities that awaited me outside so I passed on the Hard Rock desserts. For me, visiting the Hard Rock Café Florence took me back to my first London visit in 1988 – it was a place that made my stomach happy with familiar flavors and foods. The Hard Rock cafes offer consistency around the world with a bit of local flair and an updated menu so I doubt this will be my last visit to a Hard Rock Cafe while traveling.
What are your thoughts about the Hard Rock Café? Do you have a favorite location? Or do you have a different chain restaurant that is your stomach salvation on long-term travel?
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The roof was leaking on my pants as the rain intensified and I kept laughing. We were waiting on the side of the road for the rest of the tour group to catch up. I leaned over to manually roll the window down and yell at the girl on the Vespa to throw her handbag (it was too nice to get wet) in the back of my car to keep it dry. She quickly accepted my offer and added her husbands’ backpack telling me I was lucky to be dry, I said “my roof is leaking” and she laughed. I was on the Tuscan Hills of Florence Fiat500 tour hoping the sun would reappear soon.
Growing up, my parents made sure that my sister and I learned to drive manual stick shift. Mom drove a manual Honda so if we wanted to borrow the car we had to learn to drive it. Fiatreedom was our incentive to learn. Knowing how to drive a manual car let me have fun in Spain with the Land Rover experience and now here in Florence in the cutest little car, the cinquecento, aka Fiat 500 tour.
Learning the Fiat 500
WalkAbout Florence operates the Fiat 500 tour year round twice a day and generally combine the cars with the Vespa tour. I booked through Viator because I had a discount code for the Self Drive Vintage Fiat 500: Tuscan Hills and Italian cuisine half day tour. There are a few Fiat 500 tours to choose from on Viator, but this one included lunch and the starting point was central. I thought the early morning tour would avoid the rain (sadly it didn’t).
The meeting point, the WalkAbout garage was easy to find near the river and the Uffizi Gallery. The tour left at 9:30 a.m. and I was told to arrive 15 minutes early for the paperwork (bring your license). When I walked down the alley, I saw the group learning how to operate the Vespa’s and three vintage Fiat500’s in front of them. Inside the garage, I met Adam, a Kiwi traveler who would also have his own car today (cost €110 or about $126.10 at the time). We were both commenting how cute this car was as we were shown the mechanics of the car.
- Roll the window down (sadly both Adam and I are old enough to remember this one)
- Roll the roof back if you want (we will definitely do this later when the sun comes out)
- Turn the windshield wipers on by flipping the switch up (easy to remember)
- Put the keys in and then lift the switch located next to the car brake for ignition to start the engine (this would trip me up a few times as it was hard to catch).
Adam and I then decided which car we wanted – I chose the navy blue and Adam wanted the one with the basket. We jumped in to get familiar with “my car” – leather seats, switches and basic stuff – and I was surprised that despite the fact that I was taller than the car, the inside was roomy however I did need to push the seat way back. Outside the vintage car measures 9’ 9” long.
Angel, the aptly named guide, gave everyone two way radios in case of problems and there would be problems on this tour, namely, the rain, slow Vespa folks and some traffic so we missed a few stops and photo opportunities.
The Tuscan Hills of Florence
We quickly drove over the bridge and Arno River to go toward the Tuscan hills (aka the suburbs). The first stop was the popular Piazzale Michelango (panoramic Florence views) but due to tour bus traffic and slow Vespa’s we didn’t visit, we just waited for everyone to catch up. While at first, Adam and I drove behind the Vespa’s on the side of the road, the beeps of cars passing us made me decide to become a driver on the road so I moved up to follow Angel. It was also my only chance to get above second gear.
The Don’t Do This While Driving Video
Angel has patience, much more than I do as we had to stop a few times to wait and he tried to nicely explain to the slower drivers that they were holding us up. We turned off the main road and started driving through a village on a small road that screams “Italian countryside”. Stone villas, lush gardens, olive trees, the one lane roads leading to churches. Then the rain started, slightly at first as we all stopped for a photo op.
Back in the car, I was flying down the roads (not really, I may have hit a high of 10 mph in second gear). It was fun to look around and I was happy not to be in the rain as the Vespa’s were. Then my roof started dripping slowly at first. As we drove through the villages and navigated the streets, my car didn’t feel small at all, it was perfect size, until I saw a GIANT Mini Cooper.
Using the Radio
After more than two hours driving around the suburbs of Florence in the Tuscan hills, some of which involved cobblestone streets, a roundabout and tricky turns with traffic, I needed a bathroom break. With the Vespa delays we were considerably behind in time and well past our lunch time so I used the radio to ask “how long until a bathroom break”. Angel pulled the group over (we had to wait for a couple) and ran to my car and said “sorry we are running late, about 15 minutes, can you wait”? I replied “sure if you go fast and ignore the Vespa’s” he laughed.
Angel drove on and then stopped again! I was now a bit crazed with another stop but this time he ran to my car and said “get out, leave everything and go!” pointing at the fancy café on the corner. I did as told and left my handbag, camera, everything in the car as we ran into the café. He ordered an expresso so I could use the bathroom (in Italy, bathrooms are never free, you have to buy something or pay). This is why he is my Angel! As I was leaving another girl ran in and then I saw cake! My purse in the car and the first piece of real cake in a month left me sad but lunch was only a few minutes away.
Driving back on a country road which fits one car comfortably, we had to pull over a few times to share the road for the giant modern cars to get by. We then found parking for all cars and bikes at the villa and made our way to lunch.
Italian Villa Lunch
The villa is used by groups for a variety of functions, we had a table to ourselves in the empty dining room overlooking the Tuscan landscape. Drying out, we all shared stories of our travels in Italy as Angel brought out plate after plate of foods as well as some wine. The foods were fantastic, the sun had come out and the wine was lovely. I had forgotten the many delays, forgave the folks that caused us to miss our photo stops and just enjoyed sharing a meal in the Tuscan hills of Florence.
Driving Back to Florence
We were pressed for time otherwise we could have stayed longer in the garden enjoying the serene views.
With the sun fully out, Adam and I rolled open the car rooftop and began taking photos before the cars and bikes began the journey back to Florence.
We lost two Vespa’s on the way back (ten minute wait) so close to the city before they caught up and we crossed back into the city center.
Adam stopped quickly as we were surrounded by a large Asian group crossing the cobblestone street. They proceeded to stop to take many photos of our group in the cute cars and on Vespa’s – it was funny because we had to use the horns to get through (the horn beep is not threatening at all). Back at the garage, Adam and I said goodbye to our adorable cars but not without a million more cute photos. It was such a fun day you should start learning how to drive a manual car now before you go to Florence for your Fiat 500 tour.
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With one food tour in Florence and a Fiat 500 tour, I had time to wander the city center and see that there were so many restaurant options it was confusing as to which one was best. It was on my Florence photos that Elena “Chaser of Dreams at Live Do Grow”, commented that I had to visit Osteria dei Pazzi (they don’t have a website). It was on the corner of Via dei Lavatoi 1/3 r near Santa Croce.
I found the restaurant near the Basilica of Santa Croce, the starting point of the Walks of Italy food tour. Entering the restaurant at 7 p.m., I was happy to see a few empty tables. The owner approached and told me that the tables were reserved and he had no seats unfortunately. I said “ok, thanks, Elena had told me that I had to try the restaurant during my visit”. All of a sudden this big smile formed on his face and he said “Elena, wait a minute this lady is almost done”. Laughing, I said “ok” and when the older American woman walked by she said “it’s really good, enjoy”.
The restaurant was filled with large Italian families, small groups and couples in the small restaurant. It was simply decorated and you could feel the warmth because the food was the star as it should be. With high ceilings, the restaurant felt bigger than it was. With a couple on the other side of me separated by a pillar, I felt fine dining solo. People were sharing food, wine, laughter all around me.
I tried to spy what everyone was eating but kept it simple with the special menu of three courses – pasta, entrée and dessert with a glass of wine (extra). I would choose gnocchi bolognese, chicken entrée and a chocolate dessert (yes, I know that’s a lot of food but have you had any luck telling an Italian chef or owner you only want a dish of pasta? I haven’t!). The owner brought me a complimentary bruschetta (after I had consumed much of the bread basket) and I showed him my Instagram interaction with Elena (I felt I had to prove that I knew her or everyone is going to say “Elena sent me”).
The service was a bit slow, the Italian style, so you can savor each course which, after nearly a month in Italy, I learned to adapt. I also needed the time to space out my meal because as much as it’s hard to say I only want a plate of pasta, it’s almost worse to not finish the dish as you will get “that look” and often asked why you didn’t finish the dish. Saying “too many carbs” or “I’m going to explode” doesn’t quite translate in Italian. I felt like I was insulting everyone involved and that’s pressure! So I did my best to eat as much as I could knowing that I was going to Venice the next day and hopefully would be able to walk or row some of the calories off (who am I kidding? realistically, I’d need to swim back to the U.S. if I hoped to work off a fraction of the calories consumed on this sabbatical).
The gnocchi was fantastic and a massive portion. I was commenting back and forth with Elena on Instagram during my meal which helped me not finish all of the food without “the look or inquisition”. The chicken was covered in a brown gravy and came with a side of greens (yes, the healthy stuff I tend to leave on the plate), while it doesn’t photo well, it was delicious. My chocolate dessert was rich and I consumed it so quickly with my second glass of red wine that I neglected to take a photo.
When I told a friend that Instagram got me a table they had no idea that connecting with good people on social media really does enhance your travels. The more I travel, the more I am enriched by the travel folks I’ve met, followed or shared a drink with as they introduce me to their cities, through food, wine, experiences – all of which I would have overlooked staying near the tourist center. If you follow me on Instagram, I’m always happy to share and comment too to pay it forward.
On your next visit to Florence, do try to visit Osteria dei Pazzi for a meal, although make a reservation first unless you know already know (and follow) Elena and can share her greetings via Instagram like I did to the owner. Be prepared to eat and leave enough time to walk and enjoy the sunset to end your day in Florence.
Meeting the guide, Ismael, our small group of 12 was given an overview of the 3.5 hour tour – wine, markets and gelato and I was glad I didn’t eat a big breakfast this time. Ismael would pepper in the history of Florence, the neighborhood we were walking through as well as the buildings when he wasn’t talking about the foods. This was a good mix of food and history as we walked from each stop.
Tuscan Wine
Our first stop would be an Enoteca, which is a wine shop that also sells crostini and small appetizers with your glass (or bottle) of wine. As it was just before 10 a.m. (or 5 o’clock somewhere), my day drinking began at the small shop set up for our private visit. The table was set for our group with plates of crostini ready for us. To appreciate the flavors of the crostini, the bread is unsalted and today our options included zucchini with mushrooms, figatelli (chicken liver with capers, anchovy, onion, butter apple and lemon juice) and olive oil.
The shop was so tempting as I was not only surrounded by a vast variety of Tuscan wines but also the vats of “fill your own bottle” (thankfully, I don’t live in Florence as I’d be recycling my wine bottle many times over). We would be able to fill our glasses as little or as much (or again) as we wanted for our tasting. We all listened to the history of the wine region (Florence is a province of Tuscany one of twenty three regions) learning that a Classico Chianti must follow the rules and have an official label on it otherwise it can’t be called “Classico”.
We tasted a few of my favorites – Montipulciano and Chianti. With tasting notes on the wine in between the group chat and getting to know everyone (I spoke to couples from Australia, the Netherlands and New York as well as a few solo travelers) was a fun way to start the day.
As with any group and wine, it was hard to leave our happy place to move onward. We ended on a sweet note of with a glass of Vinsanto (Tuscan dessert wine) and cantucci (aka biscotti, crunchy Italian cookies).
***Note that there is a restroom so use it before you leave as the market restroom has a fee***
The Florence Market
Visiting the market, we started outside perusing the produce tables for local fruits and vegetables. For me, there’s always a new fruit or vegetable that I discover in the colorful array on offer.
Walking into the market we walked to our first stop for a plethora of meats (hams, salami and boar) and aged cheeses (pecorino and parmesan) as well as olives (I skipped these as I’m not an olive fan). The very charismatic owner (also a personality with a book for sale of course) kept passing unending plates of samples over the counter. He was also a happy ham to pose for all photos. I did not request “lactose free” cheese ahead of time but the guide was great to tell me if cow or sheep based cheese. We spent about an hour at this stand eating and learning about each sample.
For many on the tour, this was their first food tour and they were surprised by how much food was sampled. It is surprising that one bite of this, that and the other quickly fills you up. And then you’re told it’s “time for lunch” and there is more to sample.
Florence Market Lunch
Moving onward we had our “lunch” stop with soup, salad, pasta and a side of wine. Our group split into two cozy booths and we shared the food plates. This popular lunch spot has both a takeaway counter as well as service tables and was packed with many locals enjoying lunch. Because it was busy, we got the quick overview and ate. Nothing earth shattering at this stop (I’d been in Italy for over two weeks eating a lot of pasta) but it was good to talk (and sit) with others over more wine.
There’s Always Room for Gelato
So for dessert we of course had to have Italian gelato. We would leave the market to our final stop. Our timing would be perfect as we got to visit the laboratory (kitchen) to see the gelato being made. Today it would be the most popular (and most expensive to make) Pistachio. The shop is run by a husband/wife team and is award winning. With our group snug in the kitchen, we watched the gelato being made, mixed and put in the freezer.
The small batch process is a labor of love – they don’t make buckets of gelato at a time, each tin you see on display was made separately. Once we left the gelato laboratory, we then got to pick out our flavor combinations for our cones or cups. This was the hardest decision of the day – only two flavors from the many award winning options.
Lucky for me, the featured flavor, the chocolate raspberry was a clear winner. The dark chocolate combined with the raspberry just needed a glass of wine as it was that decadent. If you’ve even eaten a chocolate lava cake, one that the waiter fills with hot raspberry puree then this gelato was the frozen equivalent. Pure chocolate heaven in gelato form. To offset the rich dessert, my second flavor was crème (since vanilla is not a popular flavor, cream or crème is a close flavor).
With our gelato dessert done, it was time to say goodbye to the group and walk the long way back to the hotel for my food coma nap. The Florence food tour with Walks of Italy was a great orientation to the Tuscan foods and wine.
The Walks of Italy Florence Food Tour is a 3.5 hour experience that costs €64 and needs to be booked in advance due to the small groups. I was a guest of Walks of Italy for this tour, as always the opinion is mine.
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