I reached into my coat pocket today looking for change and pulled out one of my Icelandic wool mittens, the only souvenir from my trip to Iceland. Putting on the mittens brought back a flood of amazing memories from my quick four day weekend trip to Reykjavik. When planning my holiday, I had a host of adventures to choose and each was more intriguing than the one before. Would I soak in the Blue Lagoon, go all out on adventure with a Skaftafell glacier hike or adventure by snowmobile, chase the Aurora lights on a Northern Lights tour or do the Golden Circle? Just a few of the options I had to consider. There is surprisingly so much to do in Iceland all year round – you need to balance the amount of light in the day, your activity level and your interests with your time and budget. For a winter visit to Reykjavik (Iceland), here are a few things to consider when planning your trip.
Iceland Gear Needed (aka Reason to Shop)
For my winter visit to Reykjavik, I needed to do a few extra steps for my trip (aka shopping for gear). All of those steps involve layers – finding the right level of comfort in the layers of clothing necessary for all of your adventures. Plus finding a good backpack for your gear/layers – Iceland is not about bringing your handbag or heels with you, in my opinion. I loaded my backpack with camera, backup battery, extra layers (scarves, gloves, socks, hat, etc.), bottle of water, a few snacks such as a protein bar and/or cashews. I stuffed my suitcase with layers, sweaters, fleece and a ton of wool socks. All this is my “light adventure” packing because truth be told, I’m just a bit more adventurous than I look but not all out REI poster child. Iceland can cater to all activity levels which is great.
For my first trip to Iceland in winter, I bought a (much-needed) new coat that was waterproof and had a hood. I replaced worn winter boots with stylish and comfortable hiking boots by Ugg (I had no clue they made boots either but they were fashionable and functional!). I became an instant fan of Smartwool clothing and accessories. For me, the new clothes and boots could definitely be used at home after this trip during the harsh snowy winters or just going to an Eagles football game – I was layered up and ready to go to Iceland!
Winter Light in Iceland
What I wasn’t quite ready for was the light, or lack of it. The first day I awoke at 6 a.m. in the dark (normal for winter most places), then left the hotel at 7 a.m. to find breakfast in the dark – the streetlights still on casting a glow that felt more like midnight than early morning rush hour. I ate breakfast by candlelight and tried to keep feeding my body on its normal schedule despite the lack of light. The tour pick up was at 9 a.m. and while the sun wasn’t quite out, there was a bit of grey light. The dusky moody light made for more of an impact and raised my senses to be more aware, to look further afield. My photos of the landscapes took on new importance because I was seeing angles and light and nature in a new (and exciting) way. The ever-changing light, in and of itself, was actually a perfect natural filter for the winter scenes.
Iceland Glacier Visit
When I toured in and around Reykjavik, I had expected glaciers and ice everywhere but was surprised by the small village feel of the city surrounded by rugged landscapes filled with waterfalls, geysers and open vistas reminiscent of the Western U.S.– drives of nearly an hour with only nature filling up your eyes on all sides. I would have two glacier encounters on my trip, both consequences of the tours I chose – one for a glacier snowmobiling adventure (I was the only “no” in the group but rather than wait behind I suited up and joined the group) and the other for a walking tour of the glacier (while waiting for the glacier hikers, we dropped off earlier, to finish their trek).
If you’ve never hiked on a glacier, I highly recommend it as an amazing experience and unique opportunity. What’s great about glacier hiking is that you can set the level of adventure – I’ve put crampons on my feet (spiky fittings for your boots), have used an ice pick to descend a glacier wall (yes, my “big girl curvy frame” balanced on a (very) strong rope to walk down the glacier wall (reverse rock climbing in a way) and also trekked in the snow. If I can do it, you can do it too! In Iceland, the nice part was that you don’t need a helicopter to the top of the glacier (as I did in New Zealand at Franz Josef Glacier), you can get outfitted and be off with your guide pretty quickly for a most memorable experience (and definitely social media worthy).
Northern Lights Adventure
After a day of adventure, there’s still so much more to do, see and taste in Reykjavik and it’s best done before your muscles figure out what you’ve done to them (you will be sore in the morning most likely). In winter, the Northern Lights should be on your “must list” and with the weather forecast, you should plan accordingly. The tours leave late, usually between 9:30 p.m. and 10 p.m., and return around 2 a.m. if they go at all (check out the Aurora forecast site for chances of a sightings).
The backpack and layers I mentioned at the beginning, this is where they come into play. Wear your layers and bring the backpack with additional layers, snacks and water but note there’s no bathroom on the tour. Before you pack your camera, make sure you understand how to use the manual settings for long exposures to photograph the Northern Lights in order to capture the incredible sights above you.
Plan Your Winter Visit to Reykjavik
There’s so much to do in Reykjavik and I’ve only touched upon a few of my favorites. The key is to do research and map out a plan (subject to change if the Northern Lights are involved) plus know that one visit isn’t enough. Reykjavik and the surrounding area will exceed all of your expectations and you’ll want to return to see the country in a new light – literally! Those that have visited in summer with the midnight sun talk about returning to see the Northern Lights and snow, while those who have visited in winter, like me, wish to see the stunning landscapes and waterfalls with the warmth of the sun and the light exposing a new mood (and lighter packing). No matter when you visit, the wool mittens will be waiting – it is Iceland after all and you need a souvenir and mitten memories of your own.
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Icelandair announced last week that it will start service from Philadelphia to Reykjavik (PHL – KEF) in the summer of 2017. From May 30, 2017 through September 20, 2017, they will fly four times a week between Philadelphia and Reykjavik. That’s big news for Philadelphia International Airport to gain another direct international flight (last year Qatar starting flying direct to Doha). For travelers in Philadelphia (like me) who have dragged themselves to Newark (or JFK) in past years via Amtrak, shuttles or private cars, having a direct flight is fabulous. The fact that Icelandair offers a fantastic stopover program is just an added benefit. So Philadelphia travelers, now is the time to start planning your Iceland visit.
My first trip to Iceland (Reykjavik) was two years ago in November. At the time, I planned the trip last minute (less than a month out) and my travel agent thought I was mad as she was suggesting sunny warm destinations to escape the East Coast Winter. I went against her advice and decided rain or snow, it was time to visit Iceland. The airline’s stopover program made it even more attractive as I could stop over in Reykjavik and continue onward to London for a quick three day visit using my Hyatt points to stay at the Andaz Liverpool street for free.
Flying Time
Many people are surprised that the flight time is about 5 1/2 hours from the East Coast. That’s about the same time to the West Coast, the only difference is that you need a passport for this flight. Once in Reykjavik, flights to the rest of the Europe are quick hops.
Icelandair Stopover Program
Most people book a point to point with a return airline ticket visiting one city on their vacation. Icelandair crafted a fantastic option to woo more passengers and visitors – a free stopover in Reykjavik (up to 7 days) on your way to another European city (London, Paris, Amsterdam anyone?). Knowing that many (or most) folks don’t have Iceland at the top of their vacation list (you really should), they provide a great reason to have a two city vacation and experience a taste of Iceland for one to a few days. So compare prices of direct flights and then the stopover pricing (with additional costs like hotel, tours, food) and see if there is value in having two vacations in one trip.
Icelandair Travel Buddy Program
The Icelandair Travel Buddy Program is a new program that I haven’t tried yet but want to – it is currently on hiatus as it was such a hit, I think they were overwhelmed. You can arrange to have a local (Icelandair employee) show you the sights as your travel buddy for the day sharing a passion for food, culture, adventure, health, lifestyle or nature. How fun does that sound? I’m keen to request a travel buddy next summer if the program returns. This is a wonderful opportunity to meet locals and see the city through their eyes. As someone who travels solo, I love this idea.
The Icelandair Flight
I wrote about the Icelandair business class, Saga, seat on my flight from Newark to Reykjavik. Originally booked on the Coach Plus option (a bit more leg room and lounge access), I was upgraded upon check in to the larger business class seat (two rows ahead of my coach plus seat) but not provided the full business class meal or bar service (the seat surprise was enough for me as I got a viewing of the Northern Lights during the flight when the captain told us on the left side of the plane to look outside at the lights in the distance).
Iceland in Four Days (the long weekend)
My four day Iceland itinerary was planned to experience the highlights in and around Reykjavik. It was a winter November but surprisingly warmer than Philly at the time. It was a concern for locals that winter had not given them much snow yet. Warm being in the 30’s Fahrenheit. The odd part to get used to was the lack of sunlight – I arrived in the dark at 6:30 a.m., there was a few hours of late light but wasn’t until my last day that the sun would brightly appear after a quick rain shower. I at breakfast by candlelight each morning which I quite liked.
My four day itinerary is easy to do all year round (except for the Northern Lights which are a winter bonus).
The Golden Circle Tour Fueled by Adventure and Cookies
The South Coast Tour – Glaciers, Waterfalls and Black Sand Beaches
Grillmarket – Farm to Table with a Pinch of Volcano Salt
Iceland Need to Know
- The airport is approximately one hour from the center of Reykjavik. The buses to/from the city run frequently and you can buy a ticket at the airport (or even onboard the flight using the touchscreen television)
- In my experience, cash was not needed and I used my Visa card the entire weekend for all purchases. This cashless society was a new experience for me.
- The Northern Lights tour in winter are a hit/miss. The tour operators will decide late afternoon if they are going or not. Many will give you a second trip if you don’t see the lights. So best to plan your Northern Lights tour the first night to give you ample opportunity to try again if needed. The hotel and visitor center can call tour operators for last minute bookings. I had friends take the big bus tour (cheaper) and see the lights, while I opted for the more expensive and private SuperJeep tour (only four people in my Jeep) that goes out in a caravan of Jeeps (we had six on our tour). What matters is if your tour operator goes to one fixed spot or a few spots chasing the lights.
- The Northern Lights tour are late night, leaving after 9 pm and arriving back near 2 am. There is no bathroom on the tours so be prepared.
- It’s not as expensive as you’ve heard. There are plenty of food options from the famous Hot Dog Stand to Grillmarket as well as bars and markets. Like anywhere else all depends on what you want and how you plan. I opted for the luxury, art deco historic hotel, Hotel Borg and used small tours.
Philly to Iceland in Summer
Many of my friends have experienced the long days of light in summer in Iceland. You can read their about their adventures:
Roaming Required – Iceland Roadtrip Series – Why Iceland is a Must!
Boomeresque – Touring Iceland’s Golden Circle Route from Reykjavik
Landlopers – 31 Weird Facts About Iceland That Will Amaze You
They got to see the Puffins on the South Coast and the greenery of summer. They rented cars to drive around the country viewing waterfalls, glaciers and lagoons. Their photos are in stark contrast to my dark, moody photos during my visit. It just shows how the country is beautiful in both light and dark. So when Icelandair starts service from Philadelphia next summer, hopefully, I’m on board to return to Iceland to see more of this pretty cool country.
If you’ve been to Iceland, share your highlights to help others plan their trip next summer.
]]>Our first stop, about an hour outside of Reykjavik along Highway 1, was a convenience store with restrooms that seemed to be “the stop” for all tour groups. Tip: Use the restroom first before the big buses get here and then buy your snacks (you will need snacks for the day).
The Black Sand Beach of Iceland
Given the weather, heavy fog and light rain, our guide, Baldvin, decided to drive to the Black Sand Beach, Reynisfjara, near Vik as our first stop passing the waterfalls (where the other groups were). Along the way, we dropped off a couple at the Sólheimajökull Glacier entrance as they were doing a glacier walk (we would be back to visit later).
The ride to the beach along the two lane road was uneventful, where the fog had lifted you could see the hills/mountains, the vast landscapes and some animals. As it was winter, the puffins were not in residence (there is a stop in summer when they are). Arriving at the beach, it was windy,cold, rainy and still foggy and yet, just lovely. The black sand, the thick fog, the roaring ocean, all made for a mysterious, moody visit.
We all scattered to walk the beach, explore the small caves, marvel at the rock formations and sea stacks and try to keep our cameras dry while we photographed it all.
The Lighthouse at the End of the World of Iceland
At our next stop, Baldvin told us that the nearest land ahead was Antarctica so we were pretty much at the end of the world (or the end of Iceland). Was this true? It sounded nice so no one really questioned it. We had a short walk uphill to the lighthouse and then an uneven hike downhill (remember the further down you go, the more uphill you need to do).
A few walked ahead to the edge of the cliffs where they were closer to the birds along the inlet that flew by, others explored different parts of the edges, me? I took their photos! For a brief time, we saw the sun and then it was gone! It was there just enough to appreciate after the days of rain, clouds and fog.
Lunchtime – South Coast of Iceland
Our lunch stop was part convenience store (again, get a snack) and part short order grill (the larger restaurant in back was for summer tour groups) with seating. As the website mentioned, there would be no fancy food today despite the prices. On the menu was lamb stew, toasted sandwiches and burgers/fries. I was able to get a ham sandwich with a side of fries. No cash needed as they accept credit cards here. I talked with the guy from Australia about his one year RTW journey which was ending after Iceland with a quick stop in Bali (of course) before home to the Gold Coast.
The Glacier Tongue Sólheimajökull
I had to laugh that we were stopping to see the glacier tongue, it just sounds funny. At the end of the day it’s still a glacier and no matter what part of it you see, I think you will be impressed. There was a small 15 minute walk to see the glacier, it was relatively easy to do. Then there is uneven hilly terrain if you choose to go further.
The lake had small pieces of glacier floating in it and with the overcast skies, the glacier looked dirty, not the crisp white and blue I’ve seen elsewhere in Alaska and New Zealand. Having snowmobiled on a glacier on the Golden Circle, this was a different view, albeit much smaller side of a glacier. Still pretty though despite the heavy fog covering most of our view.
The South Coast of Iceland Waterfalls – Skógafoss & Seljalandsfoss
Having skipped the waterfalls in the morning due to the rain and fog, it was a good decision to go later when the rains had stopped but we were now chasing what was left of the light. With sunset at 4:30 p.m. or so, we would definitely lose the light but did our best anyway. The first waterfall, Skógafoss we viewed from the Skógá river bank and then had the opportunity to climb the stairs to either another vantage point halfway up (which was muddy and tricky as one couple had experienced) or really get an aerobic workout climbing to the very top.
It’s one of largest in the country with a 200 ft drop and has a lore about buried treasure. It’s worth the steep climb up (just take breaks along the way as needed). For an added thrill, you can climb the step-ladder over the wire fence to walk along the top and see yet another view (I skipped this one as the muddy field seemed slippery for me as I’m clumsy anyway).
We arrived in the dark at the second waterfall, Seljalandsfoss. While this could have been an issue, they light this waterfall up so you can still enjoy the view at night.
For those wanting a challenging view of a waterfall, you can trek behind it. There are stairs to a point and then you are on your own with the rocks – it was wet (obviously from the powerful waterfall) and dark (we all seemed to have flashlights (torches) to guide us). The roaring noise of the water’s rush was the first thing I noticed standing behind the waterfall, getting soaked from the spray was the other. In the dark, photos were not an option, I tried video but only the sound was recorded. The group was good to stay together to ensure everyone was ok.
The Last Snack Stand – South Coast of Iceland Tour
Wanting a bottle of water for the long ride back to Reykjavik, I was unsure if the snack stand would take my credit card as I had no cash for the weekend. Relieved when I saw the credit card machine, I bought two bottles of water. They had a good variety of sandwiches and snacks (the theme of the day). There are three outdoor restrooms (slightly upgraded porta potties) here, given that the ride is over an hour back, do utilize this option.
Final Thoughts – South Coast of Iceland Tour with GeoIceland
The South Coast of Iceland was quite beautiful and the added allure of the rain and fog made it even moreso. With the small group, we were able to make changes to the itinerary that worked in our favor (we rarely encountered crowds or other tour groups) and were given enough time at each stop without issue if someone was five minutes late. It was a long day (returning at 7:30 p.m.) and the mix of people on the tour made for interesting conversations which is always an added bonus when traveling. Iceland really does nature well, in the rain and fog anyway, I can’t wait to see it in the summer sun!
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