Italy is a country that every traveler should visit (a few times).  I was fortunate to begin my love affair with Italy, at the age of 22, on a memorable ten day bus tour with the local church group of senior citizens, a guide and a tight bus schedule (my version of solo travel in Italy with a safety net).  With so much time on the bus, I looked out the window and dreamt of just renting a villa in Italy for slow travel in Italy in the movie of my life. I wouldn’t recommend a bus tour of Italy anymore as its long days, multiple hotels and the same people day in and day out on a tight schedule.

Italy is meant to be savored through the seaside views, leisurely meals, local wines from each region and getting lost in the city (as much as you can in the age of Google Maps).   Unfortunately, when you are just out of college like I was, your funds are limited, however, now twenty (cough) plus years later, my budget is a bit bigger but my vacation time still American (aka limited 1-2 weeks at a time).  So how should you plan to solo travel in Italy (or family travel or even group travel)?

That’s easy – focus on food, fun and wine from Naples to Milan as you are surrounded by history.  Ok, it’s really not that easy because I’m sure you have a checklist of everything you must see and let me tell you – when that crazy schedule happens to collide with the Italian way of life, you’ll quickly learn the Italian way (and have a daily gelato habit like I did) so make a short list of “must see” and then if you find time, add some “would be nice to see”.

Tip: You’ll never have enough time on your first trip so be prepared to plan a second, third, etc. trip because you’ll need time to explore different regions, cities, towns and villages before you find a right fit to go back and leisurely explore some more. 

For a first visit to Italy, I’d ideally allow at least two weeks (14 days) or more to visit from Naples to Milan to sample the highlights.  If you have only 7-10 days, you can mix and match the below.

Tip: Talk to your travel agent to book your airfare into one city and out of another to maximize your time.

Train Travel in Italy

The train is very easy to use in Italy to get between cities – I used Italio and Trenitalia.  The trains were on time but they were not announced so you had to keep checking the board. Buy tickets online in advance, if possible, for savings. Worth noting when traveling anywhere to be careful in and around train stations at all times because you are subject to pickpockets’. It’s your vacation and often the unfamiliar causes you to be distracted from your bags, luggage, souvenirs – Don’t be that tourist!

Tip: Carry a few coins as the public toilets in Italy as they charge an entrance fee (I call it the “pay to pee fee”. The fee can range from 50 cents to 2 Euros. 

Food in Italy

It’s not all pizza and pasta unless you want it to be.  Each region has specialties – fish, meats, pasta, etc.  I’ve even seen a few gluten free pasta options offered which was surprising but a sign of the times (and tourists). You may want to carry a food allergy card in Italian.

A few things to note:

• Pizzas are generally one size (9-10”) for one person and eaten with a fork and knife.
• If you ask for water, expect to be brought bottled water and charged accordingly.
• Bread is not free (only in America are we carb happy free bread folks).
• Look at the menus outside first (and the prices) before you sit – I just read a horror story of friends who were charged an outrageous amount for lunch in Venice (they could have avoided this)
• Prices will vary at coffee bars/cafes – standing inside at the counter will be cheaper than sitting inside/outside.

The best foods I’ve found have been far from tourist areas – I’ve found slices of pizza in Venice (Dorsoduro) near the university, a multi course Italian feast in Florence and artesian gelato made in small batches in the maze of the cities.

Tip: Buy bottled water in the local supermarkets for less (go to the back of the store, not the easy to find cold water at the front which cost more)

Fun in Italy

While a wine tour is definitely a fun time, I’d save that for its own itinerary.  You can do day trips to winery or stay in the city and refill your glass (or bottle).  There are fun activities throughout the country from exhilarating car rides at Ferrari to flying through the air in Capri. Try something new and off the well-worn tourist path to see a different side of Italy and yourself! Maybe try to Row Venice?

Tip: I like the unique small group tours of Walks of Italy, Context Travel which use local guides and Row Venice which is an all women non-profit 

Solo Travel in Italy Itinerary – 14 Days in Italy

Naples – Capri – Amalfi Coast (4 days)

Naples is a gritty city when compared with the other more touristy cities in Italy.  Cruise ships stop throughout the season (May-October) for one day and the city swells with people on tours.  But you can still find gems that the cruise ship folks haven’t found yet – the oldest Napoli pizza shop, Antica da Michelle, the Naples Underground Tour and a Bike Napoli tour. Note: Naples takes its pizza heritage quite seriously!

For history buffs, Pompeii and the lesser known Herculaneum is a must.  You can take the local train to each or join one of many tour options.  Seeing the ruins from the volcanic eruption is fascinating and having both locations to compare and contrast helps to understand even more.

A ferry ride will transport you to the island of Capri, where the Blue Grotto and Limoncello are waiting for you.  The Blue Grotto experience involves laying down in a boat and going through a small opening (dependent on sea levels) to a magic blue cavern.  The sunlight hits the water and it glows blue, for me, this never gets old.  You can either travel to Anacapri to hire the local boat at the Anacapri landing or do an Blue Grotto tour from the ferry dock (note it takes time to unload all the boat passengers into the little boats so be prepared for that).

For the Amalfi Coast tour, hire a local guide (he’s worth the money) like I did. You’ll stop at scenic viewpoints, dine with amazing views and food and not worry about the narrow roads and tight corners. The Amalfi Coast is one place that I could really enjoy renting a villa for the whole time and relax with views of the sea.

Rome (1-5 days)

Rome, for a first time visitor, is all about history, the Catholic Church and the Pope.  It’s hard not to visit The Sistine Chapel (go at night on a tour to avoid the crowds), Colosseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and Galleria Borghese.  For the most part you can do the Hop On/Hop Off bus and do drive by of the attractions.  Rome can really be one day or multiple days, it just depends on you and the rest of your “must see” itinerary.

Florence (2 days)

Florence is a city with a mix of history, touches of modern and a whole lot of amazing food, wine and gelato to enjoy.  Come to the city hungry and leave satisfied.  With amazing views at sunset over the Ponte Vecchio Bridge, it’s hard to imagine anything more gorgeous in Italy. I’d suggest doing a Florence food tour before you start your Uffizi Gallery and/or church visits.

Tip: Have fun driving a Vintage Fiat500 (manual) or Vespa around the city and out to the nearby countryside

Venice (3-5 Days)

I won’t lie, Venice is my first love. The Venice of twenty years ago that is still there underneath a city teeming with tourists.  I prefer to visit in May or Fall months (Sept/Oct/Nov) when I can get lost in the maze of the city as if I have the city to myself.  The key to Venice is to do your list first (San Marco Square is always packed it seems) and then find the secret happy hour along the canals and try to fathom how long this city has existed and who has walked the streets before you.

Tip: For your gondola ride (expensive), try to find that lone gondolier on the canal for a more private ride rather than the central ride locations where you are on the assembly line.  

Milan (1-2 days)

Milan is a business centre and it shows.  The historic Italy is mixed in with the modern Italy.  After visiting the Opera House and waiting for the light to change, a Ferrari drives by.  While touring the rooftop of the Duomo, I can look down at the shops inside the Galleria.  Milan mixes it up well throughout the city. Milan in one day can easily be done – the Last Supper with a city and Duomo walking tour and still have time for dinner in the Navilgli entertainment district along the canals.

Tip: The Duomo Rooftop is a must unless you are afraid of heights

Overall – Solo Travel in Italy

You’ll notice I didn’t mention much about visiting all the wine regions of Italy (there are many) and that’s because for a first visit of Italy, especially solo travel in Italy, it’s best to visit the local wine shops for tastings.  In Venice, visit Vino Vino near Fenice Opera for a great wine list, including Barolo (a favorite). In Florence, you can do a day trip to Tuscany for a visit to the vines.

So this is just a start to your trip planning as Italy is a big country with so much to do, see, eat and drink that you can’t do it all in one short trip (please don’t try).  Learn to relax, take in a few sunsets and enjoy your solo travel in Italy –  La Dolce Vita!

My stay at the Westin Milan was to be the luxury celebration to a month in Italy so I redeemed points for the weekend stay at the posh hotel.  After a month of mixed lodging from boutique hotels in Naples, a B&B in Sorrento and Venice to my amazing canal view Airbnb in Venice, I wanted to end in a Heavenly Bed at the Westin Milan.  I love the Westin brand of Marriott  – the Heavenly Bed & Bath and the overall sense of wellness that the brand evokes and lives by.  The Westin Milan would manage to join my short list of “hotels I didn’t want to leave”.  I almost succeeded if not for a pre-booked Milan Last Supper and City Walking tour with Walks of Italy on Saturday.  Not only was I wearing my exhaustion on my face from the crazy busy days walking the Expo pavilions but my feet had finally given out after the walking tour.  My intent was to fall into the plush bed and order room service Saturday night (yeah, I’m fun like that) which extended to Sunday. Opting to luxuriate in the hotel spa with two treatments – facial and massage, I enjoyed a lazy Sunday in luxury.  Even in a different language, the hotel was an oasis in the city for me and a wonderful way to say “Ciao to Italy”.

Westin Milan Location

Set a bit back from the main thoroughfare, the hotel has a small green space across from the circular driveway.  At the corner of the street is a subway entrance and across the street is a bus stop.  I was able to walk a few blocks to the supermarket, pharmacy (where contact solution is sold and no one speaks English – bring your bottle to show and tell) and a further stroll down the main road in to the center of Milan – the Duomo.  There is a STK across the street if you want a modern steakhouse experience.

Westin Palace Milan Arrival

I arrived by taxi in the morning from my Airbnb Navigli studio rental in the entertainment district.  I was welcomed from the taxi and my bags magically disappeared as the bellman escorted me to the front desk.  The young woman checking me in acknowledge my (then) SPG Gold status and explained my choices at the hotel – I always take the points – always the points.  There was a special at the spa which I sort of listened to but not really until she said “gold members get a discount of x” and my tired feed and body were kicking my mind into active listening.  Once check in was sorted, I was given my room keys which surprised me this early.  I expected to pre-check in and come back later after 3pm for my room but it was ready now and so was I.

Westin Milan Lobby

The lobby is a throwback to older, historic, luxury hotels in my opinion – marble, dark woods and gold accents.  It definitely had the feel of luxury Italian hotel and not that of a normally modern Westin.  There was a bar area as well as dining room off to either side of the lobby.

My King Room

When I entered the room, I saw the window with a view of the street below and the modern buildings in the distance of the city.  I immediately noticed the blue hues and warm feeling of the room – it was just pretty.  I don’t get to say that my room is pretty very often but it felt sumptuous with the bedding and décor.

There was room to move and the King Bed, a very welcome sight after three nights sleeping on an Airbnb futon (I really did experience it all on this Italy trip).  My first instinct was to fall into the bed so I did and just like other Heavenly Beds it was very hard to leave the enveloping comfort.

The hotel had already delivered my big box from Naples.  I had shipped extra clothes and shoes from Naples, my first stop in Italy three weeks prior, to my last stop in Italy to lessen my luggage weight along the way as I traveled to Sorrento, Florence and Venice.  I was packed for my three month sabbatical which started on the cruise and lugging my bags on/off trains, ferries and busses was not ideal hence the shipping box staring at me on the floor.

Westin Milan Room Service

I was exhausted with pain in my feet that I had never experienced before so room service was ideal – I was ready to be pampered and fill up on (bad for me) oh so good food and wine (i.e. the hotel burger, lots of bacon, fries, dessert and wine).

Breakfast at the Westin Milan

The breakfast service in the restaurant was slow if, like me, you need to do ala carte breakfast and not the buffet. If you are opting for the buffet then have at it – your plate is on the table and you can get going as soon as you are seated. But for me, I always have the sad plate of food that cost as much as the buffet.  I had a problem during breakfast that was immediately addressed by management on site which impressed me.

Italian Breakfast Option – CaffeLatte

The hotel has a quick breakfast option available in the lobby bar area.  Since ala carte juice cost €9, the italian breakfast option at €12 seems a steal as it includes coffee/cappuccino, espresso, fresh juice and italian pastries.  In terms of healthy, just remember to walk (a lot) because you will be indulging in (too) many delicious carbs.

The Westin Milan Spa [comfort zone]

I literally never walked outside on a gloomy Sunday.  I went to the restaurant for breakfast, back to my room to read and then to the [comfort zone] spa for two treatments.  It was a lovely way to spend the day.  There are definite differences in how spa treatments are done in the U.S. and Italy, so it was interesting to experience the treatments.  A sore knotted back doesn’t need language translation.  You can read my Westin Milan Spa Review for detailed visit.

Overall – Westin Milan Palace

The staff was definitely wonderful during my stay, including the concierge team who attempted to help me find contact solution (only sold at the Pharmacy or Eye Doctor and it was the weekend).  The room was fantastic and I could see myself returning just to stay in the hotel and not leave.  It was a restorative stay in luxury that I definitely needed to reboot and refresh before my adventure in Malta.

Lost in the shadow of Pompeii popularity is Herculaneum.  Everyone has studied the history of Mt. Vesuvius and its aftermath the most famous being Pompeii but there are other areas that were affected and ruins found over the years.  There are actually five archeological sites to visit – Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Boscoreale and Stabiae.  I’d never heard of others either!  Having visited Pompeii twice already, I opted to explore Herculaneum and see how it differed from it’s more famous neighbor. Herculaneum is an easy day trip from Naples and Sorrento.

Train to Herculaneum (Naples to Ercolano Scavi)

You can read my adventure on the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Herculaneum but the key takeaways are – don’t get distracted, board the blue or green line, have cash for the ticket and bathrooms and since there are two Ercolano stops you want the Ercolano Scavi stop.  The ride should be less than ½ hour from Naples Garibaldi Train Station.

Ercolano Scavi

The train station is at the top of the town and looks and feels like any suburban train station which is to say it’s unremarkable except for the folks who greet you when you exit.  Do you want a taxi? Do you want to buy x?  Nope.  You can walk straight downhill (remember there’s an uphill on the way back so break it up with a lunch or dinner stop) on either sidewalk to the Herculaneum entrance, about ¼ mile.

First Look – The City of Herculaneum

As you enter the grounds at Herculaneum your first view is this and I was really surprised to see how well preserved the buildings looked from above.

The city, at the base of the mountain, was devastated and yet so well preserved as you can see from above. Much was due to the fact that Herculaneum was a rich sea town and it was covered with wet ground and tsunami like effects along with the hot ash and apparently the wood used carbonized the structures.  This difference has led to many discoveries over the years that are much different from Pompeii (wood furniture, a boat and everyday objects).  Much is still undiscovered.   To enter the ruins and explore further, you need to go to the Visitor Center for a ticket. Combination tickets are available if you wish to spend three days here or at any of the other locations in the area.

Herculaneum Visitor Center

The visitor center is all shiny and new. The entry price was €11.  Backpacks are not allowed so you will need to check your pack at the center.  The center has free guides in various languages (you can also download the guide free to read in advance).  There are bathrooms (free!) at the center and near the snack bar (I had to laugh at the sign since bathrooms in Italy generally charge a fee).

As you exit the visitor center you walk the path to the top of the railing and look down at this unbelievable town that existed so long again.  The juxtaposition with the newer homes and apartment buildings surrounding the excavation was crazy.  You can see how deep down the town was vs. today’s level and you wonder what else is underground waiting to be discovered (In Naples, the underground tour was one such find and even then there is more to discover underneath). It’s hard to believe that this was a sea town given the land that surrounds it now.

The Roman Homes of Herculaneum

With map in hand, my new friends and I started at the end of the town walking over the bridge to what was a street lined with homes. I noticed the narrow streets and what seemed like sidewalks in some places.  There are thirty four buildings open to visitors – Roman homes, public buildings like the Temple and Palestrae, shops and baths.

Herculaneum was a wealthier town than Pompeii and I felt that almost immediately in the level of detail, color and condition of the homes – it is amazing.  Unlike Pompeii, there are full frescos in many colors, mosaic floors and buildings that were slightly affected.  You had a great opportunity to understand scale of the buildings (many vaulted or multi-storied), how they connected, the decorations on the floors and the walls as well as imagine how life existed in this village back in its time.

In Pompeii, where many ruins are roped off, here in Herculaneum, we, for the most part, had free reign which meant that we were very curious to see the differences in each of the structures.  There were many to see and similar to an open house at home, we were curious to see how the neighbors lived, which meant it took a long time to visit each home. Herculaneum is not a quick visit in my opinion, you have the opportunity to explore a bit more in depth according to your interest.  Of course, you can do a drive by for the Instagram photos but to glimpse into history you’ll want to explore the nooks and crannies.

The Skeletons of Herculaneum

As the excavation has occurred in many stages over the years, initially found in an underground tunnel dig, there are still surprises to be discovered.  One recent discovery, in 1980, was 300 skeletons found with coins and other everyday objects at the time as they tried to escape. Seeing the skeletons made this history lesson so much more real.  At a time when we’ve seen so many natural disasters and the consequences, this archeological site is a reminder how nature can destroy so many years ago but we can’t forget the present.

The Colors of Herculaneum

That the colors are still able to be seen and appear in some cases vibrant thousands of years later is remarkable.  At Pompeii, I’ve seen the red hues and the blues.  In Stabiae, at Villa San Marco, many of the better frescos were removed but the reds remained. Here in Herculaneum, full color was on display.

The Village Life of Herculaneum

As I walked through the neighborhood of homes, I turned into what seemed to be the town meeting place based on its size and shape.  There was large Temple with vaulted ceilings and an altar space as well as what seemed to be stalls for a market or storefront.

You can imagine the baker was there (we saw the stoves) and start to build in your mind the trading post and shopping available in the town before Mt. Vesuvius surprised the village.

We walked along the street leading downhill toward a water source and what would be seen as boathouses potentially and now the site of the found skeletons.  This view of the village was very different from above.  Upon first sight above, it was ruins, yet now as I explored further, I was personalizing the town and how it must have felt to wake up on a normal day, go about your lives only to have the unexpected wipe it all out – to cease to exist.  Maybe it was the emotional toll of the past month with the unexpected shift in my life or the natural disasters of my lifetime that I’ve watched in the media that made this visit so much more to me.

The Cool Exit of the Tunnel

Having started our tour of the town from the bridge up through the town and then down to the water source, we exited walking up the tunnel (passing some who decided this was their starting point). After the sweltering visit in the direct sun for which some homes provided a temporary respite from the sun, this uphill steady walk of steps was very cold and dimly lit.  It was as if the cool breeze and uphill climb was transporting me back to life.  I was leaving the sad memories of the visit behind and slowly ascending back to the detached history that I began with. It was definitely a different experience than Pompeii.

Herculaneum – Final Thoughts

I chose to slowly visit the site with my new friends – I didn’t run ahead as I normally do.  I read the guide with each address, wandered through with few visitors and sat down to take it all in.  The fact that the site is a much smaller area and more well preserved compared to Pompeii allowed me to personalize this visit.  I may not have learned about Herculaneum in my history books but it should be visited and explored in addition to Pompeii so you can have a compare and contrast like I did.  Herculaneum was a highlight on my Naples visit, more than I thought it would be.

Italy by train can be quite easy for travel between cities (Naples-Rome-Florence-Venice-Milan) as well as local travel to towns and villages along the way if you do a bit of research and don’t get distracted. I was interested in a day trip via train from Naples to Herculaneum, a town affected by Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD and an UNESCO World Heritage Site. I decided to skip the pricey bus tour and do it myself via the Circumvesuviana train which has five train routes around Vesuvius (each marked by a specific color) and in about 20-30 minutes would transport me from Naples Garibaldi station to Ercolano Scavi in nine stops on two of the five train options.  Herculaneum is an easy day tour from Naples if you arrive by cruise ship.  I was thrown off my solo traveler game by a few American tourists – there’s a story to tell, a lesson to be learned and a free lunch!

Bus N151 from the Waterfront (or Cruise Terminal) to Naples Train Station

I was staying along the waterfront at Partenope Relais and many local busses were frequently flying around the corner to all parts of the city. Bus N151, would transport me to the Naples Garibaldi Train Station.  I want to say the cost was about €1.20 vs. €15 taxi so I decided to experience the local bus.  I’m accustomed to standing on the bus so didn’t mind standing with space around me but when we stopped at the ferry/cruise port and folks crammed in with suitcases and I was packed like a sardine did I start to wonder about the ROI on the bus vs. taxi conundrum. Luckily, I’m tall and had the upper window for air as it was a humid morning.  With many of the Italians standing or sitting around me eye to boob height, I was a bit uncomfortable so I looked out the window at the local life passing by. With each stop, I hoped people would leave but they didn’t spill out until the last stop at the Naples Garibaldi Train Station.

The Naples Train Station (Naples Garibaldi)

Never one to look lost or wander aimlessly in a foreign train station, I had done a bit of online research and found my way underground (down the stairs from the main floor of Trenitalia and high speed trains) to the local Circumvesuviana ticket windows (look for blue signs that say Biglietteria which is the ticket office). Quickly, I learned what I called the “Italian way”. The “Italian way” involves me picking one of three lines (always the wrong line), waiting until it was my turn and then the man behind the window puts up the “closed” sign as I approach.  I, and the others, shifted to the other lines because this is apparently how it works, of course I was grumbling about “inefficiencies of the lines”,  “poor customer service”, “fairness”, etc.  I was not happy nor was I really surprised as I was learning about daily life in Italy.

Again I waited and when it was my turn, a guy tried to cut ahead of me and without me speaking any Italian, I said a forceful “no” with a look of indignation mixed with Philly street that said it all as he made his way to the back of the line.  The agent didn’t speak English but I had written Herculaneum/Ercolano on a piece of paper to show him (I find this is an easy way to avoid problems) and had cash ready (no credit cards, only cash). With my day ticket in hand, I had the obligatory “pee before you flee” visit to the restroom before making my way to the tracks.

The Bathrooms at the Naples Train Station

Unlike the Amtrak bathrooms in the U.S., which frankly are abysmal/disgusting (our tax dollars not at work), the Italian train station bathrooms are pretty nice and very clean.  They should be as you need to pay to pee (budget this line item folks).  I’m not keen to pay for a basic need but this is commonplace, good or bad, in Italy.

The signs are easily marked to find the bathroom but the signs are missing the €€€.   Unlike the other bathrooms with cover charges of 50 euro cents, the Naples train station bathroom charges 1 Euro!!  (about $1.15 at the time).

Don’t worry if you just have bills, there is a convenient coin machine to break the bills so you can put the coins in the slots to gain entry to the bathroom.

Circumvesuviana Train from Naples to Herculaneum

After the gouging at the bathrooms, I made my way to the train track and looked around.  You could be anywhere in the world standing at the train platform however, this being Naples, the graffiti covered train cars approached. You might think it was the 70’s or 80’s in NYC with the vision of vandalism but it wasn’t, this was Naples – chaotic and gritty.

The track had three options – Red to Sarno (wrong), Green to Poggiomarino (good for Herculaneum and Pompeii) or Blue to Sorrento (good for Herculaneum). Two of the three trains would stop at Ercolano Scavi (yes, you already know what happened). The trains from Naples to Sorrento are notorious (right or wrong) for pickpockets and thieves as it is filled with tourists with too many bags, easy cash and distracted on their way to the luxe Amalfi Coast via Sorrento.  An American couple approached me to ask about the train as they were going to Herculaneum too.  Then a few more folks gathered around (funny how I collect clueless Americans).

We made a group decision to board the train (I didn’t see the train name or color when it arrived as the couple was talking to me) with everyone else on the platform and almost immediately a young man told us in Italian, “No Sorrento” and we nodded and said “Si” as we weren’t going to Sorrento.  He kept at us for many stops (I should have whipped out my TripLingo app to converse with him but he was talking to the couple away from me as I watched the stops along the map) and all of us were skeptical based on what we had heard so just said in English “we aren’t going to Sorrento”.  And then the train made a left after Barra and I knew that “No Sorrento” meant I had boarded the Red (wrong) train that wasn’t going to Ercolano Scavi.  I was that typical distracted tourist!  It’s been awhile since I made a rookie mistake. (Lesson Learned – Americans are distracting! and There’s always another train!)

Time to Go Back to Barra

I told my new American friends that the train diverted and I was getting off at the next stop, Ponticelli, to turn around.  They weren’t sure about my plan but I showed them the map and they reluctantly agreed to follow me.  So the young Italian “No Sorrento” guy had been right we weren’t going to Sorrento and I think may have had an Italian version of that big knowing smile that says “I told you so in Italian” as we left the train.

As it was Sunday, the trains weren’t running on a normal weekly schedule so we crossed the tracks to the other side surrounded by trees and homes in the background waiting for the next train.  The upside was that we got to talk about our travels for the half hour or so.  One couple was going to Herculaneum like me, the other two couples were going to Pompeii. We were all in various stages of travel – beginning, middle, and end with different ways to traverse Italy but all with great food and wine memories thus far.

Going back one stop to Barra, we switched to the other side of the platform to resume our journey toward Ercolano Scavi (Pompeii and Sorrento).  My view was of more graffiti on the walls that bordered the train tracks with apartment buildings in the background filled with laundry drying on lines in the sun (I’m not sure what Europe has against clothes dryers).

Ercolano Scavi Train Station

The stop at Ercolano Scavi is unremarkable as it would be in most suburbs but there are two Ercolano stops so make sure you get off at the Ercolano Scavi for Herculaneum.  The difference was that we were asked if we needed a taxi to Herculaneum, a quick ten minute walk downhill.

Unless you have mobility issues, the downhill walk (about 1/4 of a mile at 400m) is easy so bypass the taxi line.   We passed the normal market shops, cafes, bars and restaurants as you would expect near a train station. The sun was bright and beating strong as we approached the ruins (thankfully I had bottled water and a power bar).  My new friends asked me to join them to discover the ruins and later for a late lunch (upside to solo travel is being adopted for the day).

So how will Herculaneum measure up to Pompeii?

My first visit to the Amalfi Coast was more than twenty years ago on a bus tour of senior citizens where I was their token granddaughter. It was a busy bus tour of Italy over ten days with Globus Tours.  We were scheduled to stay overnight in Sorrento but the hotel was full so we were moved to Le Agravi, a luxury hotel with amazing apricot croissants and a view that made me imagine my future wedding (little did I know) along the Amalfi Drive in Positano.  The windy roads along the Amalfi Drive felt scary (I didn’t see guardrails from my bus window, just a very steep drop below to the water).  We had a woman in her late 50’s at the time (a young one on this tour) who was afraid of heights and all of the twists and turns of the road coupled with the views made her scream in fear for the entire ride.  This was my first encounter with the Amalfi Coast and the famed Amalfi Drive.  Quite memorable.

The Amalfi Coast Tour with Marcello of See Sorrento

Many years later I would revisit the Amalfi Coast on a day tour from Naples, the cruise stop, with new friends from the repositioning cruise.  I met Marco and Marcello that late November day.  November is quite late in the tourist season so we lucked out that there weren’t many tourists on the drive that day which made it easy to stay on schedule.  It also helped that no one on the tour (ten of us) wanted to shop as many shops were closed. We would again start on the Amalfi Drive in the same place that the tour bus had so many years before.

This time, our luxury van felt a bit safer on the twists and turns (I still didn’t see guard rails in some places, just small stone walls) and no one was yelling at the top of their lungs.  Although the group found my story pretty funny.  We would stop at various lookout locations along the Amalfi Coast to enjoy the beautiful coastline, admire the homes perched along the cliffs and view the water below.  It was a day of in and out of the van and we coasted through the many little towns along the way. We would lunch later in the day at the top of a village sitting outside on the balcony enjoying the foods, wine, new friends and serenity of the gorgeous view.

So it seemed fitting that on my sabbatical, I’d revisit the Amalfi Coast, after my visits to Naples, Capri and Sorrento. I started with a bus of senior citizens, then a van full of cruise folks and now I met Marcello to take me back to the viewpoints on my own photo tour of the Amalfi Coast (the Positano fruit stand is still there!).

The Views of the Amalfi Coast

The views in over twenty years hadn’t changed much however the cruise ships discovered the coast with a day in the port of Naples.  The little villages are now full of white sneakered cruise tourists looking for souvenirs (rarely locally made) and pizza.  I think they are missing the best part of the Amalfi Coast – the views and the villages.

The Amalfi Coast is made up of a collection of villages built into the cliffs both above and below the street level.  You will see many steps from the road walking up or down so be prepared to do steps if you find a flat to stay.  Once on the two lane road it’s a bit of follow the leader as you are at the mercy of the traffic ahead of you and delays at many tunnels if there is a bus vs. bus situation as only one wins out.  If you are on a cruise stop in Naples, do opt for a private guide tour like See Sorrento (with Marcello) to get the best value from your day.

The Five Star Pit Stop along The Amalfi Coast

During the drive, I had one bathroom stop at the fancy five star hotel, Hotel Santa Caterina (which has hosted celebrities, dignitaries and political figures) – I had to pretend to be interested in the hotel to ask for a brochure and then ask where the bathroom was (if only the Italians would just let me use the bathroom instead of the pretense or requirement to buy something).  I then asked if I can take a photo or two (lamenting my good camera left in the van). Generally the main part of the hotel is at street level then the rooms, pool and beach are located below. This is the fancy, five star view of the Amalfi Coast.

Views Along the Amalfi Drive

For the rest of the time, we followed the slow traffic on the two lane road that snakes up and down the cliffs and through the village’s practically scraping people and buildings along the way (it’s a tight squeeze in a few places).  The road is not for the faint of heart in my opinion and I’m happy I had Marcello to drive it so I could just enjoy being a passenger with my camera. I was on my own photo safari and Marcello was easily able to accommodate my requests to stop for this or that photo.  When he saw a place to park along the side of the road (a rarity) he would stop and we would get out to explore the area.  I saw the ropes that were in use between villages up on the hills to transfer goods, saw the roadside Nativity displays in the villages and looked down at what seemed like a hidden beach.   It was this flexibility to stop and explore that a private guide affords you.

Ravello – Villa Rufolo Amalfi Coast Views

In Ravello, I had an hour to explore and Marcello told me to go to Villa Rufolo, an 11^th century villa.  The entrance fee was €5.00.  Walking through the serene gardens to the villa and then beyond to the Amalfi Coast view was really relaxing.  It wasn’t as crowded as the town square was with tourists in the church, at the cafes and sitting around waiting for their pickup to return to the ships.  I had time to sit on benches and look at trees and views that many literary folks had done eons before me. Relaxing in beauty and history isn’t the worst way to spend the day.

Amalfi Coast Village Lunch Stop

When I ready to leave, I texted Marcello to pick me up and we explored the villages away from the coast before revisiting that lovely café at the top of the town I had enjoyed years before with my new cruise friends.  This time rather than drive to the entrance, we parked like locals at the bottom and walked up through the village.  I think Marcello figured I needed a workout pre/post lunch given the many food and drink samples there would be.

Walking up the steps (there were many steps) we passed homes with lemon trees in their gardens and the smell of flowers growing all around.  The small lanes were lined with homes and the stone path continued upward until we reached the restaurant.  A bit of a huff and puff was rewarded with a view, some red wine, Italian pasta, bread and desserts.

Saying Ciao! (for now) to the Amalfi Coast

Our day on the Amalfi Coast and Amalfi Drive was sadly over as we made our way back through the town going down the stairs back to the road (some towns have thousands of steps from the main road to the top, thankfully this wasn’t one of them).  We joined the caravan of cars, vans, busses, and vespas back on the famous two lane road to snake back into Sorrento.  It was my last view of the coast that seduced me in my 20’s and continues to call me back with each visit to Italy.

Five years ago, I met Marco in Sorrento. Sounds like a great opening line to a travel romance novel and in some ways it is, I didn’t fall in love with Marco (he was married) but I had fallen in love with the Amalfi Coast twenty years ago on that infamous bus tour with the seniors.  Marco was my guide to reintroduce me to the Amalfi Coast so many years later but now with my new friends from the cruise ship.  I was responsible for finding See Sorrento and booking our Naples cruise stop private tour for the day.  With eight people on the tour, I had a pretty intense day planned.  We would travel from the cruise port along the Amalfi Coast, stop for lunch before spending the afternoon at Pompeii and return to the ship before dinner.  See Sorrento is owned by Marcello (Marco’s friend) and I met him at our lunch stop, high above the road at a small local restaurant.  After our many emails to set up the tour, it was nice to meet him in person. Upon return to the U.S., Marcello became my Facebook friend and I was able to remain in a constant state of love with the Amalfi coast in all of his posts and videos.

When my sabbatical took me to Capri, I decided not to go back to Rome and instead spend the time in Sorrento, Capri and on the Amalfi Coast again.  Marcello was available and he was my private guide for two days.  He recommended I stay in Piano di Sorrento at the Antica Dimora B&B as he knows the owners (quite helpful for me to save money to afford Marcello on my own).

Marcello met me at the ferry terminal as I arrived in Sorrento from Capri.  We would spend the entire day driving around Sorrento where he grew up and still lives with his family.  This was definitely the insider tour.  We saw no tour busses at our stops, few foreigners at lunch and enjoyed chatting with a couple picking fresh herbs among the weeds as we hiked high above the Amalfi coast.

Villa San Marco

When we pulled into the dirt lot after passing farmers selling their crops along the road, passed the piles of trash in the streets (just like in Naples), passing real life locals, I was surprised to walk in the dirt path to find a hidden historic villa.  Pompeii is definitely more famous than Herculaneum and all are more well-known than Villa San Marco where I was in Stabiae.  Due to a recent documentary on local television, Marcello was surprised to see people at the site during our visit as he is used to having the place to himself.  The guard greeted him as an old friend. The villa has many preserved pieces and the colors and style are reminiscent of Pompeii or the homes in Herculaneum.  You can see the walls torn apart as the valuable art has been removed over the years – a few to museums, a few lost. I’m always fascinated by this part of history, how well it has been preserved while modern life grows up all around it.  The villa is pretty massive for what was the time period with internal and external courtyards, gardens and even a pool!

Lunch in Sorrento

Marcello would normally let his guests eat lunch while he goes to work or eat alone.  He felt bad that I was solo so he ate with me (funny to me since I eat alone all the time).  He plans out tasting plates to show the best of the local Italian foods.  The foods were plentiful starting with an antipasti, followed by a pasta trio and finishing up with a trio of desserts and after meal liquors.  Each course was tastier than the last.  What I didn’t finish (I mean really, what one person can eat all of this plate?), he happily indulged commenting that he can’t say no.  I may have been a bit buzzed after this lunch as I had the red wine to myself and Marcello doesn’t like waste so I drank my wine (he of course was driving so no wine for him).

He made me try all the foods and drinks with his classic motto “How Do You Know If You Do Not Try”.  He would throw this one at me a few times and it worked (Catholic guilt not from a nun?  This was new).  His fabulous insights and sayings could fill a book “things my Italian tour guide says”.

Going Local in Sorrento

We drove far away from town, through small villages and at one point I had him stop to find a bathroom (a bit tough when it’s not a tourist town but there was a lot of wine and water at lunch).  We found a small café, I bought a bottle of water (which bothered him that I was charged a tourist price) and used the makeshift bathroom (always interesting experiences). We continued our tour on the two lane roads twisting and turning as Marcello pointed out the nice houses (they are rented out) vs. the houses that looked very weathered almost in a state of disrepair from the outside (real Italians live there) and the many lemon groves.

We would stop to do a slight hike and passed locals foraging for herbs.  I followed behind Marcello and he stopped at the edge and just said “look”.  All around me was gorgeous nature and down below I could see the famous Amalfi drive that we would navigate the next day.  This is how you are supposed to see the coast in my opinion – having it all to yourself.

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Outside the window was lush greenery, tiered farms, many lemon trees and my sense of wonder.  When you think of Sorrento, you think Amalfi Coast – the water, the gorgeous views, the luxury hotels.  We were visiting the true highlights of the city, where the locals live and tourists rarely see.

Sorrento City Center

On the way back to the city, we were now past the center of town (Piazza Tasso) looking down while people passed by.  Many folks walk past this historic site on the way to the souvenir shops not knowing that Marcello and his friends used to run down the steps and play in the Deep Valley of the Mills (Il Vallone dei Mulini).  It was an old flour mill with water coming from the mountains. If you look closely on the left on the side of the wall you can see the perilous steps without a railing (yikes!).

Sorrento for many is just a quick stop on the way to/from the Amalfi Coast or Capri and I’ve rarely met anyone who took time to explore the city as in-depth as I did.  But you should really try to go a bit deeper to discover the local aspect of the city. Surprisingly, it was a long day that flew by and Marcello drove me to my B&B but not without first pointing out the best gelato store nearby.  Don’t go there, or there, only there! He was like the Italian version of me telling people where to go in Philly for the best local experience.   It’s so easy to jump on a bus tour or tick off a checklist from a guidebook but sometimes you need a local perspective to go off the beaten path.  In this case, I got to see Marcello’s childhood in a town that has seen so many changes over the years (good and bad) but comes down to good memories, great landscapes, fresh foods and the best gelato.

With two days in Sorrento, I asked my Facebook friend and Italian tour guide, Marcello, to recommend an affordable place to stay.  He told me to contact friends of his who have two rooms in their residence in Piano di Sorrento that they rent out as B&B Antica Dimora (no website but you can read reviews on TripAdvisor or Airbnb).  I contacted Daniela directly to book a room and paid by PayPal ahead of time. She was quick to reply to my emails which was nice as I was planning my sabbatical piece by piece.

B&B Antica Dimora Location

A few miles outside of Sorrento, Piano di Sorrento is a residential area and the B&B is located on the main road.  You can walk (although a bit hard without sidewalks) or take the bus at the corner across the street into Sorrento city center. The apartment building is located across the street from many cafes, shops and the police station – it was a quiet area.  There are also many ATMs on the street and a fabulous gelato shop (one of many).  You know you are in a residential area when you look at the restaurant menus posted outside and do a double take at the prices which seem so cheap in comparison to Sorrento, Capri and Naples that I became accustomed to.

Arrival

Marcello, had picked me up at the ferry dock in the morning to do a full day Sorrento tour so he called ahead when I was ready to arrive near 5 p.m.  I was met by the owners, Daniela and Roberto.  Walking into the ground floor courtyard, I felt like I was visiting friends and then we journeyed up the four flights of stairs to the second floor (U.S. folks would call it the third floor), I was shown into their apartment.

Roberto carried my rock of a suitcase (remember I packed for three months away in one bag and had already shipped a portion ahead from Naples to Milan). Their apartment is half a floor so they’ve designed the front two rooms into the B&B while they live in the rest of the apartment which lies further inside. Roberto brought me water with lemon and Daniela, Marcello and I laughed as he squeezed the whole lemon in my one glass as evident by my face after the first sip.

The Studio Apartment

My room, which would be a studio apartment in many cities, was a surprise.  With high ceilings, a tile floor and a double door window leading to the balcony, this was a large room. With two double beds on either side of the room, there was a bathroom, small kitchen, small table serving as a dining area, a large wardrobe and multiple tables. Absent were wall photos or splashes of color which I think would have tied it all together. After the tour of the room, I was given coupons for breakfast with a choice of four cafes in the area (generally a pastry and coffee – the sugar donuts are a MUST). It was comfortable to have so much space as well as a window with small balcony to get fresh air and look outside. The bed was a slat bed and I did dislodge one or two slats during the night that I put back in but otherwise it was comfortable.

The Bathroom

Compact and stocked with shampoo, shower gel, three rolls of toilet paper and cotton swabs.  The shower was pointed out as having a sauna function as well as a radio option (neither of which I used). I was put off by the huge step up into the shower afraid I would fall when exiting (I was careful) but this is probably only an issue for me not most folks.

Other Amenities

The kitchen is small, functional and stocked with supplies. Sadly, during my visit, the clothes washer was broken (there is a wash/dry a few blocks away that I didn’t get to use as my days were busy).  I was looking forward to doing wash after being on the road for two weeks so that was a disappointment.  The Wi-Fi was strong in the room and there are many outlets to use.

The Neighborhood

I walked around the area both nights and it felt safe.  I ate at the local café, Bar Sess, across the road, happy to get a toasted sandwich (I had eaten so much at lunch that I barely had room to eat dinner) and watch Italian music television (which was very entertaining since I didn’t think they still made music videos).

The owners, a multi-generation family, found me interesting as they don’t get many American guests or tourists it seemed during my visits.   After my sandwich each night I would walk to the small gelato shop, Gelato a Chilo, that Marcello said was the best (I’m not going to argue with a local about the best gelato and happily took his word and enjoyed the research).  Seeing folks double park their cars to run in for gelato was proof that this was a popular local shop.  The gelato cost €1.50 for a small cone. I felt no guilt by my multiple visits as the stairs back to the apartment were enough to work off the ice cream (and hopefully the pizza, pasta and wine!).

There are a few market shops on the road which made it easy to buy fresh fruit, juice and food to take back to the flat. I had a laugh when Roberto told Marcello that he thought I didn’t like the cafes as I brought breakfast back to my room each day.  Was I not happy? For me, this was normal as I brought back the pastries (one day a fresh croissant, the next day the amazing sugar donut) to go with my fruit and juice rather than sit at the café alone. It was a reminder of cultural differences – I did laugh at being ratted out on my routine.

B&B Antica Dimora Overall

While others are paying exorbitant fees in Sorrento, you can easily stay here and experience the town as a local.  You can also save enough money to hire your own private tour guide like Marcello of See Sorrento to see the Amalfi Coast like I did. For early May, my rate was €55 per night (I was upgraded into the larger room as they had another guest, normally this room costs more than what I paid.)  A bonus is that Roberto and Daniela offer a few free tours of the area which judging from the many internet reviews are a great amenity for guests.  I’m glad that Marcello recommended B&B Antica Dimora because it was a nice change from the hotels I had stayed in and allowed me to experience this part of Italy a bit like a local, albeit a local living in a nice building in a large apartment with new friends Daniela and Roberto.

The apartment is also listed on Airbnb.  If you decided to book your first stay with Airbnb, use my personal code for a discount

When Milan hosted Expo15 last year (formerly known as The World’s Fair) finding a reasonable hotel room proved to be difficult for my dates (three nights) so I turned to AirBnb. Searching through all the options, I kept coming back to the Navigli apartment – it was located in Navigli on the canal and had good reviews.  I didn’t know Milan had canals so I was intrigued. It seemed like a good choice and was fairly priced at $122 per night (total of $366 for the stay). Here’s my review of the Airbnb Milan Studio in Navigli Entertainment District.

Studio Location

Navigli is the entertainment district full of restaurants, bars, music and art.  It is easily reached by the green line metro M3 (S. Porta Genova) or a €20 taxi ride (if you have luggage like I did but I had such an interesting conversation with taxi driver who is a huge country music fan) from Centrale train station. A supermarket, takeaway and a bank are a quick five minute walk. This is a neighborhood of Milan that is more local than tourist. The canals run through a pedestrian only zone of about eight blocks with bridges connecting both sides. The studio flat was at the corner of one of the bridges.

Arrival at the Studio

The owner, Lorenzo, was stuck at work, so his friend met me outside. We walked in the door to the courtyard, made a right to the elevator (yeah, elevator!) which needs key access and easily ascended to the 2^nd floor (if you take the stairs, remember you are going to the 3^rd floor as the bottom floor is zero). There are two key locks on the door (four deadbolts) and with that we were in to the studio flat. It looks exactly like the photos – no surprises there.

I was explained all of the keys – ground floor door, elevator key, front door keys and how one goes first before the other. I was offered a glass of water and shown how the kitchen stuff works. Then the bed details. Ok, I forgot about the bed part – it was a high loft/bunk bed. I realized that my climbing up to the bed days are over especially with the get up in the middle of the night jaunts and the oops I forgot about the stairs mishaps of my younger days. I pointed to the couch/trundle bed and said, I’m going to sleep there. He apologized for not preparing that bed and I said “no worries, just give me the sheets and blanket and I’m fine”.

Navigli Information

Lorenzo has a few printouts of recommendations for the area – restaurants, sights to see and other need to know information. He also has a map showing you where the places are in relation to the flat. He doesn’t offer a manual like my Venice AirBnb properties did so no required reading. His friend showed me the electric circuit breakers (I hoped I didn’t need to use those!).

The Milan Studio Flat

Well equipped with a loft bed and trundle bed. There is a small television with headsets on the table and a nice sized kitchen to work in. There is a washer (no dryer because this is Italy!) and fast wi-fi. The bathroom has shelving for your toiletries (hand soap is provided), a hair dryer and walk in shower that had good water pressure. I was given two towels and requested an extra without a problem.  There is a balcony with a small table and two chairs and serves as the smoking area as well as providing you a nice view of the canal and bridge. It is a good size for solo travelers and couples.  A family might be a bit on top of each other in the studio in my opinion.

The Singing Italians

A benefit of the entertainment area is that you get to be entertained while you work or while you are in your PJs – I had live music until midnight one night (the band was pretty good and like the Italians I found myself singing along to the popular U.S. music). Yet another night, I had a bevy of “buona serra” and “ciao” that I wanted to yell “goodnight already! Just say a blanket “ciao” and go home” – it was a big group and everyone did a round of good-byes.

The Navigli Entertainment Area

The comments on the flat mentioned the noise from the bars/restaurants and to bring earplugs if you are a light sleeper. Well there is noise, no way around that (and Lorenzo can’t control that aspect) from below so luckily my Expo15 schedule worked perfectly – I was up late and slept in.

The plethora of restaurants gives you so much choice you won’t know where to go first – Napoli pizza, Steakhouse, Tapas, Pub, Gelato, Wine Bar, Italian, etc. With my busy schedule I didn’t quite enjoy enough of the area as I could have – it was a lost opportunity. The benefit of the busy nightlife was feeling safe on the metro and walking back to the flat near midnight alone. The area was busy in the day with tourists on canal tours and at night with Italians enjoying good food, wine and music.

Overall – the Milan Studio in Navigli

I met Lorenzo on check-out day for a quick chat – I found out he has a few properties in Milan for rent through Airbnb. I wasn’t able to stay later as he has new guest arriving – this is a popular studio for him. He was kind to order me a cab to my next Milan stop, the Westin Milan, and help me with my bags to the taxi. The flat was perfect for my needs during Expo15, shame I didn’t stay longer to sample all the restaurants and feel a bit more local.

Booking your first Airbnb stay?  Use my personal code for an Airbnb discount.

A long time ago, I had a quick day in Milan with my fun senior citizen bus tour and then an overnight many years later during August when the city pretty much goes on vacation and shuts down.  If I’m honest, I didn’t quite discover the charms of the city back then. On my third visit to the city this summer, I planned to stay for four days to attend Expo15 and join the walking tour of Milan, hoping to change my initial impressions so long ago.

Starting my Saturday sightseeing day, I easily found the Walks of Italy coordinator at Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie and had time to enjoy a quick breakfast at the café across the street.  I was told that there were twelve people today for the Best of Milan tour with Last Supper Tickets and Milan Duomo Rooftop so we would be split into two groups of six.  I thought twelve (the max) was small enough but six made it even more private (a couple from Atlanta, a family from Toronto and me).  Our guide, Laura, grew up in Milan and attended the local tourism school before leading groups abroad.  Now with small children, she stays in Milan to share her perspectives of her hometown and its rich history. It’s easy to visit a city, tick off an icon, take a photo and share on social media but it’s the private guides that add the flavor to the photo, a sound bite of history to bring the experience more alive.

The Last Supper – Milan

If you want to see “Last Supper” in Milan you need to reserve your ticket well in advance otherwise you need to sign up for a tour with one of many tour groups.

As we had timed tickets for the “Last Supper” Laura explained Leonardo’s history with the painting and told us it was about perspective.  The fact that Leonardo was an architect shows in the work as you can, at some point, feel in the painting not just look at it, but be there with it.  She then used a great analogy as to why it was so big in the dining room – “think of how we now have big screen televisions to watch at home, back then the painting was a big screen story to watch while you ate” that gave me a bit more insight into much of the works we would see on our 3 1/2 hour walking tour of Milan.

The “Last Supper” is a controlled entry (you get only 15 minutes inside and they limit access to 29 people) and Laura explained that we would go in first to get the good seats as she explained more on our headsets.  No photos are allowed inside.  We ended up with only 15 people in the room so pretty much had the place to ourselves to take it all in. There is another fresco on the opposite wall from an artist painting and living with Leonardo at the same time – it is so different and is famous only as an afterthought to the masterpiece it faces.

Walking Milan – Time to Get Our Walk On

We needed to cover some ground (it is a walking tour remember?) and it was a hot Saturday.  Thankfully, while not usually a fan of the headsets and wireless devices, it was great to hear commentary as I lagged behind taking photos.  We stopped in the courtyard of the church behind the “Last Supper” for great views before the next hidden gem.

I would not have found this church, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore which is full of amazing frescos covering every inch of the walls.  I didn’t see any tour groups here just a few local senior citizens.  While you take in all of the stories on the walls (again television for the times) and admire the frescos, Laura then explained we are going behind to the second church in the back.  Here we see the wooden choir chairs, the beautiful organ as well as more and more frescos. Visually it’s stunning in person.  Just when you think “I can’t see another church in Italy”, you are rewarded for your perseverance.

Milan Castle

Back on the sidewalk, it’s time to visit the Sforza Castle (or the castle within the castle).  Walking past the alluring fountain that I wanted to jump into, we joined the crowds moving toward the castle and the square inside.  History, stories and details are provided and pointed out – the past is always so fascinating in context with today.  It makes you think is it really that different in treatment of the classes and politics?  Ok, so we don’t have Napoleon who figures prominently in the narrative of the day but the players are just as complicated.

The Fashionable Brera

From the castle, we stroll through the fashionable neighborhood of Brera.  This cobblestones and boutiques line the streets dotted with cafes (bars), art galleries and the occasional chain store (i.e. MAC). Thankfully we didn’t stop to shop as this is an area that would really like your credit card.  Taking photos and notes as we walked, I wanted to come back later to linger and window shop.  We did stop for a coffee/water break (at our own cost) at a bar (café) and had time to chat with the group.  Thankfully, Laura chose a bar with air conditioning to refresh us from the walk.

The Milan Icons

Our next stop was outside, across from the La Scala Opera House to see Leonardo in the park before walking through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Galleria for short) to the Duomo.  All impressive sites and made more interesting with Laura’s commentary.  It’s easy to visit a city, tick off an icon, take a photo and share on social media but it’s the private guides that add the flavor to the photo, a sound bite of history to bring the experience more alive.

The Milan Duomo and Rooftop Visit

At the Duomo, we were given our tickets for the lift to the top observation area and at this point Laura said “Ciao” to us.  We waited about 20 minutes in line for the small lift (much better than 900+ steps!) and the group chatted for a bit before squeezing into the elevator.  We still had a way to go after exiting the elevator (note: there are uneven surfaces, many steps and slippery marble so wear good shoes and take caution to follow the folks ahead of you).

There are very few experiences nowadays that provide the “wow” moment but walking on top of the Duomo is definitely one of those.  You get a different perspective of the city – old vs. new, insight into the detail of the design and structure and marvel at the ingenuity of it all back then.

The roof, at the time of my visit, had an art installation of statues/sculptures to enjoy in addition to the many wonderful views and architectural details.

Overall

The Walks of Italy Walking Tour of Milan (the Best of Milan) was a great way to see so much of the city in a short time.  Laura was fantastic with her knowledge and passion for her hometown.  When you sign up for a tour, you want someone to share their love of their city and she definitely added flavor, insight and stories to my photos, much more than I could have done on my own.

Thank you to Walks of Italy for hosting me on this fun walking tour of Milan (the tour cost €79), as always opinions are uniquely mine.

After nearly three weeks in Italy and too many pastas, pizzas and bread sticks, when I arrived in Florence, I was on a mission to find The Hard Rock Café Florence.  I had left the U.S. a month before on a boat of mediocre food, practically overdosed on the fabulous Spanish foods and drinks and was now desperate for a grilled chicken sandwich with bacon, a side of fries and a lemonade.

My Hard Rock Cafe History

When I first traveled to London in the late 80’s, the Hard Rock Café was a must see. It had a line to get in and this was before the massive expansion throughout the U.S. and the world.  There weren’t many cafes at the time so it was a big deal to get the t-shirt, view the rock memorabilia on the walls and have a burger at the counter.  Frankly, the food in the U.K. was pretty dreadful back then (thankfully, that’s changed over the years since that first visit) so the Hard Rock Café visit was a highlight.

It was then that I created my list to travel the world to visit all of the Hard Rock Cafes (I’ve met others who did the same).  They were in the best cities (London, Paris, Rome, Sydney, etc.).  At first, I did ok, visiting Paris, Sydney and Cancun and many others buying the t-shirts for family, shot glasses and pins for friends and enjoying a burger and fries away from the U.S.  But then they expanded faster than I could keep up and the novelty wore off as I viewed it as just another chain restaurant especially after the Planet Hollywood incident in Paris.  I wanted to explore the city getting away from the touristy restaurants (note that Las Vegas doesn’t count since it’s a casino/hotel first and I usually win there) and find local gems. So for a while, the Hard Rock Cafes were not on my travel to do list.

The Hard Rock Cafe Florence, Italy

It was this recent trip to Italy that my resolve gave out and I needed the Hard Rock Café Florence, well my stomach did anyway. It was why I was circling the streets of Florence with Google Maps telling me I walked too far to turn around on my way to the corner of Piazza della Repubblica.  Then I saw it, hidden under cover of a historic building with many vendors outside selling souvenirs. I walked past the velvet ropes (thankfully no line) and walked inside.

It was really nice inside the historic building, formerly a cinema.  Looking up at the original, but renovated, chandeliers told me that this wasn’t a normal Hard Rock Cafe.  I found out about the cinema history later after the stay but appreciated that the designers were able to keep many of the wonderful features when they build the cafe. On your left is a small coffee cafe bar/lounge area (opens at 8:30 am for those with a coffee habit) with funky seating options while on the right is the merchandise.  Walking further inside you reach the hostess stand (you can book advanced reservations online) before entering the larger restaurant and music venue. Yes, the American menu was still on offer, with a few local twists.

Inside the Restaurant and Music Space at the Hard Rock Cafe Florence

I walked down a few steps to the shiny bar in the middle of the room and took a seat, surprisingly there was a nice crowd at 3 p.m. on a Tuesday.  Looking past the bar, you can see the stage for musicians/concerts (live music schedule online) and an area to dance.  Sadly, there was no music today but no worries, I was happy that the restaurant was open all day (key point especially if you have kids as so many restaurants close after lunch and reopen at 7pm, it’s hard to find a late lunch or early dinner).   I was a tourist desperate to eat a meal that didn’t include pizza, pasta or bread sticks and was thrilled that I could eat mid-day.

While I contemplated a burger, or the chicken tenders, I stayed with my initial craving choosing the simple grilled chicken sandwich and adding bacon (yum bacon).  The bartender took my order and made my fresh lemonade (expensive but worth it).  With a few sips of my drink, my food quickly arrived and I just smiled, giddy with anticipation.  Silly, yes I know, but it just seemed healthy (seemed being the key word because I know if I looked up the calories online, the only healthy part of my meal was the ice cubes).

As this was Florence, I couldn’t ignore the numerous gelato possibilities that awaited me outside so I passed on the Hard Rock desserts.  For me, visiting the Hard Rock Café Florence took me back to my first London visit in 1988 – it was a place that made my stomach happy with familiar flavors and foods.  The Hard Rock cafes offer consistency around the world with a bit of local flair and an updated menu so I doubt this will be my last visit to a Hard Rock Cafe while traveling.

What are your thoughts about the Hard Rock Café?  Do you have a favorite location?  Or do you have a different chain restaurant that is your stomach salvation on long-term travel?