“If you start early enough, you can do it all in a day” the front desk clerk said at the Courtyard Marriott Page when I was checking in. Unfortunately, in my research, I had planned it out wrong so back in my room, I went about researching tours and times for the next day and shifting things around. What can you do with one day in Page Arizona (also referred to as Lake Powell or Glen Canyon Dam National park area)? It’s all about the incredible nature – views of Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend plus the engineering marvel of Glen Canyon Dam and the serenity of Lake Powell. But could you do it all in one day? I was able to do 2 ½ of the four options during my quick visit. I arrived at dinner time Tuesday night after the drive from Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah, I had a good part of Wednesday to visit the highlights before I was off to Zion National Park later in the day.
8 a.m. – Visiting Horseshoe Bend
Located less than ten minutes from the Page Marriott Courtyard hotel, I drove out to Horseshoe Bend and as it was early November (off-season), I was able to easily park in the gravel lot (note – construction is working on a larger parking area so be prepared for parking challenges now) and begin my trek up the sandy hill and down the other side to the edge of Horseshoe Bend (about 1/2 mile) to take in the early morning views of the Colorado River. Now if you are a photographer you and your tripod would have been here an hour earlier to catch the sunrise.
Much has been discussed about changes affecting Horseshoe Bend due to popularity with visitors and its a tricky one – this picturesque location is estimating close to 2 million visitors in 2018 and the park service is planning to add a few booths for fee collection. The gravel parking lot I used, is being expanded to accommodate the crowds and avoid the dangerous parking on the side of the road. Plans for a viewing platform with railings, an accessible trail and other improvements are expected to be completed in 2019.
9:15 a.m. – Glen Canyon Dam
The drive to the Glen Canyon Dam was quick from Horseshoe Bend and again as it was a Wednesday in November, parking came easy in the vast lot which during peak season is packed with cars and tour buses. I walked into the visitor center to view the exhibit (free) and the expansive view of the dam below. There is a restroom and gift shop plus guided tours four times a day for $5 with limited number of guests. The first tour of the day was at 10:30 so I wasn’t able to stay for that as I had a 10:30 a.m. tour at Antelope Canyon. After the exhibits inside, I walked across the empty dam bridge for photos (there are cutouts in the fencing for photos).
10:15 a.m. – Upper Antelope Canyon
The night before at the insistence of the hotel staff, I moved my Lower Antelope Canyon tour until after lunch in order to do the more popular Upper Antelope Slot Canyon tour. The meeting point was off the main road and had limited parking (so you may need to go earlier or park across the road). The trucks were filled with 10-12 people and since I had seen these trucks in the Caribbean, I knew they were going to be bumpy and dusty for the off-roading portion of the tour and murder on my back and hips so as a solo I was happily offered the front seat with the driver since he was seating in pairs of two in the back to share seat belts.
Visiting Upper Antelope Canyon is popular and easy to do as it is flat walking inside. Each group must have a guide (ours was a retired history teacher) and each group is time limited to enter to allow a few rooms just to your group for photos. This tour group had four trucks going out and we joined other tour companies for a total of twelve trucks at the attraction. You go slowly into the slot canyon with your guide and have time for photos but when you turn around you are instructed to just walk out, no photos, no stopping.
Noon – Lunch in Page Arizona
There aren’t many food outlets in the area so I crossed the road to the strip mall of shops where the local burger (and ice cream) place, Slackers, was recommended for a grilled chicken and bacon sandwich with fries. They offered local beers, cookies/desserts and a plethora of burger options. It was busy with locals which is always a good sign.
1:20 p.m. – Lower Antelope Canyon with Ken’s Tours
Visiting Lower Antelope Canyon with Ken’s Tours was the original and only tour I had booked prior to arrival in town but I was easily able to shift the morning visit and delay my drive to Zion National Park in order to experience the adventure of the Lower Antelope Canyon. This part of the slot canyon is on an Indian Reservation so there is a fee for the tour and a cash fee for reservation access. Lucky for me the tours leave every twenty minutes and our group was only five people and a guide. The more adventurous tour involves climbing ladders, stairs and narrow spaces for a different view of the slot canyon. I was really happy that I did the Upper and now the Lower Antelope Canyon to get a sense of the similarities and differences.
During our visit, there were only three other small groups touring the canyon. Only two tour companies traverse the Lower Antelope Canyon. Note that in high season (summer), the waits to enter the lower antelope canyon can be hours (yes hours in the sun and heat) due to the limited capacity in the canyon so they have installed a cover to wait under at the entrance. I’m not sure how happy I would be to wait hours with tons of people. So I’d suggest going early or late if you and your camera phone just want photos – for photographers, there are different tours for you and your tripod.
Overview – One Day in Page Arizona
So I did pretty well for my shortened day in Page, Arizona (8 a.m. – 3 p.m.). I missed the guided tour of the dam which was a shame timing didn’t work out. I have previously toured the Hoover Dam so will hazard a guess that there are many similarities. While I would have liked to have sailed on Lake Powell, it wasn’t in the plans given that I needed to drive to Zion National Park later in the day. Ideally if you are ok to be busy, I would recommend taking the cruise at sunrise in the morning to see how the views change before and after the sunlight hits the rocks and water.
If you are planning a visit to Page, Arizona (Lake Powell & Glen Canyon National Recreation Area), you can ideally do a lot in one day – I know I did but it was off season in November. You may need two days or more in high season, which as an in between town for the Grand Canyon (Arizona) or Zion National Park (Utah) is a nice layover.
Roadtrip Continues….
Driving from Page Arizona to Zion National Park
3:00 p.m. – Driving from Page Arizona to Zion National Park
I was keen to get on the road in order to drive during the daylight on the long road back to Utah and into Zion National Park. My original plan was to leave by noon but adding in the Upper Antelope Canyon was worth the delay because when will I be back in this area anytime soon or ever? Traveling back on the long two lane road to Kenab was a bit of the familiar but now the other side of the road view. I stopped quickly at the “Welcome to Utah” sign because why not? When I reached Kenab, I stopped at Subway for a sandwich and restroom break before continuing to Zion Lodge. The roads to Zion were not 80 mph roads so while the distance was less the speed limits made the drive longer.
The drive from Kenab, Utah to Zion National Park was just as beautiful as the drives the past two days. Unlike the vast expanses on the road, the landscapes ahead and around were on smaller roads and when I turned in between the gas station and pub onto the entrance road to the park, it became a small country road all the way to the Zion park sign.
What would you do if haunted by a photo? For the past few months, I’ve seen photos of Horseshoe Bend in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Antelope Canyon in Page, Arizona everywhere. I must have “liked” the photos somewhere and since then every social media algorithm has been following me and showing me the photos. You’ve probably seen the photo a million times too but never realized where or what it was. So with my wellness vacation planned to Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah, I thought “its only 2.5 hour drive to Page, Arizona so why not visit?”
I’m not sure if this social media haunting was a sign or not from the universe but I thought there were enough to make me go discover this one. How many signs do we pass, dismiss and miss out on every day?
Driving to Horseshoe Bend in Page, Arizona
I had to ask the hotel front desk for directions, I was staying at the Marriott Courtyard in Page, Arizona and they said go past the Wal-Mart Circle and you’ll see a small sign on the right (about 5 minute drive). Well it was that easy except for the small sign and quick turnoff (watch your speed or you’ll pass it). The gravel parking lot is located off the road and when I visited in November at 8 a.m. on a Wednesday it was pretty empty which meant it was easy to find a parking spot, change my shoes (there’s lots of sand to walk in up the hill and then down to the rocks) and get my backpack ready with camera, water, snack (always bring water with you). There were a few small tour busses but I can only imagine high season summer that it’s packed with tourists.
Getting There – The Trail to Horseshoe Bend
It’s not quite walk there and take a photo. There is one company that does a tour that takes you closer to avoid the 1/4 mile hike up/downhill in sand. I tried to book with them but they wouldn’t take a solo booking nor would they return calls so I saved the money and did the trek from the parking lot on my own. Make sure you have good walking shoes as you are walking in sand for the most part and while there are a few marked steps for the most part going up it’s not a paved or easy path to follow. You essentially follow people ahead of you while watching your step as you try to take the beauty of nature all in.
As you reach the top of the hill, you think, “that was easy enough, I’m here”, because the seating area gives you false hope. You’ll then look down and see the people in the distance and realize you need to go downhill to the viewing area which does not have a railing or barrier so watch your footing. Right now there is construction ongoing to make the area accessible by summer of 2018.
As you walk down the hill you get a sense of “wow” as you get closer to the people taking photos of Horseshoe Bend and a ton of selfies.
Horseshoe Bend Outlook
The rocky areas along the edges are precarious so do be careful to watch where you walk, stand and take a photo. You can still get good Horseshoe Bend photos from a distance. I traversed a few areas and levels for different angles. I would have loved to sit down, lay down or play with different angles even further but I’m naturally clumsy so I took no chances.
Horseshoe Bend Video
[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lz1JeZ4F_s0[/embedyt]
Black & White Photos of Horseshoe Bend
I did ask for someone to take my photo which is always a mistake because they try to get all of me in photo and none of the attraction/landscape. I attempted a lame selfie a result of the direct sunlight. With the wonky lighting at 8:30 a.m., I chose to shoot in Black & White to mute out the lighting issues I had. When there was a millennial guy next to me that said “hi”, I replied “hey, use Black & White filter as it will give you a moody picture and help deal with the light and shadow”, He replied “is that the old timey photo look?” Defeated in my (old) age, I replied “yes, it is the classic photo”.
When I passed an older woman (70’s), I saw her not going to the edge but sending her husband, I said “try the black & white setting for that Ansel Adams look”, she replied “thanks, I love his photos! Hey hon…” as she called her husband over to tell him to use black & white.
For the best photo of Horseshoe Bend, I think you need to get overhead or have equipment that can capture the right aspect. For me, I was happy that I got to visit, walk around and shoot the photos that captured my moment in the sun.
Final Thoughts – Horseshoe Bend Visit
No longer haunted by the photos of others, I now have my own photos to hang on the walls at home in color and old timey black & white. As I made my way up the hill back to the car, I stopped a few times to turn around and be still – taking in the views, the sounds and the sense of this wonderful nature made attraction hidden by a hill from the parking lot and small sign on the road.
Would you have stopped on the road if you saw a small sign that said “Horseshoe Bend” not knowing what it was? I think for many the answer is “no” which is why I love to discover new things to share on my blog and give you time to pause and say “yes” to the small signs on the road and the signs that haunt you on social media. The universe is talking, will you listen?
My photos of Horseshoe Bend are reminders to stop and explore what’s beyond the parking lot, to stop ignoring signs and just be open to the world. What photos (or signs) are haunting you lately?
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Last week, I woke up to sad news that The Azure Window of Gozo was swallowed by the sea. Created by the sea thousands of years ago and destroyed by the sea in a powerful storm. While experts had said it was fragile, I hadn’t realized its days were numbered. I visited this tiny island of Malta a few years ago during my sabbatical, spending three weeks exploring the island and meeting locals. The loss of the Azure Window is Goitian & Maltese history vanished in an instant, I’m not sure there is a natural attraction in the U.S. that would be lost in the same way.
When I visited the Azure Window, I stopped for a moment to take it all in – there have been a few places on my travels that have made me stop and be thankful for the stunning beauty of nature. It’s when I know I’m not that jaded yet from all of the travel. The summer sun of June was shining strong and the waters inviting many to enjoy a swim while yet others perused the souvenir and ice cream stands on the periphery of the visitors area.
Visiting the Azure Window
Once I walked around to soak in the otherworldly landscapes (familiar to Game of Thrones fans from the wedding in the first season), I then began taking photos (a lot of photos). A few tourists ignored the signs not to climb the Azure Window but alas for that photo they did and I photographed their dangerous decision.
The Inland Sea Tour
We then boarded a small fishing boat to visit the Inland Sea and see the Azure Window from behind. With viewpoints from both land and sea, The Azure Window projected different impressions.
My Favorite Photo
One photo in particular stands out for the boy would stood in the frame the whole time. He was swimming with friends in the water below but stood for about twenty minutes and wouldn’t leave the frame of my photo so I gave up and took it with him in it. I wanted the shot clean to look like all of the magazine photos I had seen without interference but later when I viewed the photo, I was actually happy he stayed in the frame because it gave perspective to how massive the Azure Window really was and how the view through the window didn’t change but in this case someone was standing in front of the window.
But now the window is no longer. This wasn’t a door closing with another door open for opportunity (or maybe it was and is yet to be seen), this was a window slamming shut for good. The view has changed but maybe that’s the point – nature, just like life, is fragile and peeking through the window is fleeting.
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If you ever wondered what it would be like to be a model, well I had a taste of it recently and its hard work. “You did what?” my friend asked when I casually mentioned the professional Flytographer London photo shoot I arranged for me & Mom. “You HATE being in photos” and he was right but as I sipped my wine, I replied “It was for Mom, she wanted pictures of me”. For all the years I’ve traveled solo, long before the selfie was popular, you asked other people to take your photo. I always picked the wrong people who took the worst photos even after I composed the shot and said “just press here”. So for all of my travels, there are very few photos of me as evidenced in Mom’s Family album. There is my high school and college graduation photos and then a picture of my house. Mom said her friends started calling me “the phantom daughter” so she wanted a picture of me during our ten day trip to Paris & London so I didn’t want to rely on other people to take the photo(s) so turned to a professional.
Flytographer began with a great concept, they would be your vacation paparazzi to follow you around and capture those real moments, and it has since morphed into both the natural photo and posed with great success. No longer tied to selfies only or the family photo without Dad since he’s taking the photo, Flytographer allows you to star in your own vacation – as picture perfect models in that glossy travel magazine or brochure.
How To Book Your Vacation Photo Shoot
Flytographer’s website and blog are great starting points. You have the opportunity to browse through other people’s photos in various cities and read the blog about their back stories. You can also look at the photographers available in your chosen city and see their portfolio, read their bios and get a sense of who they are and how they capture people. It’s a hard choice with so many talented photographers. With each city, the booking request will present you a list of preferred locations for your photo shoot but also gives you an option to request a bespoke location. So armed with the package type you want and the list of photographers, you can make a booking request here.
- A Flytographer Concierge will reply rather quickly to let you know if the photographer is available.
- You will receive your invoice to pay online to proceed to the confirmation.
- You will also need to provide a photo of yourself so the photographer knows who he/she is meeting.
- A Shoot Concierge will guide you through the details.
- They will send you suggestions on what to wear (Mom was originally Navy, so I brought my Navy dress, but then changed to Black and I had to improvise) and know about the photo shoot.
- They will connect you with the photographer directly by email.
- The Photographer will contact you as well to confirm details.
- You will receive a reminder email prior to the photo shoot.
Flytographer London Photo Shoot Request
Since this was Mom’s first trip to London, I decided to split our one hour photo shoot with Classic London (Big Ben & Parliament) with present day London via the Street Art. I also chose Hector from the list of photographers in London. His portfolio showed a mother/daughter picture and he had a few older people (some portfolios are engagements, families, romantic couples focused) and street art photos. We arranged to meet on the Westminster Bridge near Big Ben and the London Eye.
Me being me, in the “other notes box” I mentioned that I hate having my photo taken as I was more comfortable behind the camera.
The London Photo Shoot
We easily met Hector on the bridge at the meeting point. He explained what we would do and how he would direct us. We started on the bridge and he told Mom “to relax and lean on the bridge” while looking at me he said “can you relax?” I replied “probably not as I’m not good in front of the camera, thankfully you can edit out the double chin and make my waist thinner?” He laughed. As a wedding photographer full time, he is used to women asking for a touch up via Photoshop. I told him I would try my best, while Mom was totally a natural.
We walked down the stairs to the river walk for lovely views of Big Ben and Parliament. Of course, the day of our shoot was the hottest September day in over sixty years. The sun was still strong at 6 p.m. While we did our shoot, along walked a real model shooting a commercial (nothing like that to remind you that you are not a professional model) – she stuck out of the crowd as she was wearing a winter coat and surrounded by three camera men as she walked. The rest of London walked by as if she was invisible.
While Hector was talking to Mom and shooting her photos, I was on the hunt for my friend who was meeting us (she would hold our bags during the shoot – they tell you not to bring heavy bags or other stuff with you). Hector took a few photos of me during this time which I like because they are not posed just natural.
We would walk away from the bridge toward the Leake Street Graffiti Tunnel (I never heard of it but it was made famous by Banksy and is now an authorized graffiti location in the city). While we walked, Hector spied a green door that he told me to stand in front of.
The Graffiti tunnel was interesting as it was more tagging with mixes of street art in between. It was definitely gritty. While Hector looked for interesting backgrounds, my friend took photos with my phone (I would take photos with my camera after the shoot was over). We got to see an artist working on his space on the wall – he was painting his young niece.
When the time was up (it goes fast), we walked out of Leake Street graffiti tunnel and I was back in my normal mode – taking photos. Hector took a few photos of me in my natural state which I like.
The Flytographer London Experience – Final Photos
Two days later I received an email with a teaser photo and the next day, I received the link to the album of photos (you don’t control the photos you get, the photographer picks out the best ones they like from the hundreds they take). I liked many of the photos (Mom loved them all) especially the ones that are the original concept of paparazzi of behind the scenes of your vacation.
Overall Flytographer London Experience
Flytographer is a fabulous way to star in your magazine worthy vacation photos – your own holiday brochure of memories. It’s a great way to capture the fun spirit of the trip whether it’s a family vacation, girls get together, wedding proposal or regular “we are tired of selfie photos”. Yes, it’s expensive (our cost for one hour was $350) but it’s worth the extra to have great photos of loved ones. It was a highlight for Mom and a great way to end our Paris & London luxury trip. Now I’m no longer the phantom daughter and can go back behind the camera again.
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The Best Nights are Usually Unplanned, Random and Spontaneous
Stars Can’t Shine Without Darkness
There are so many great quotes to find about the “Night” FriFotos theme, the above are just a few. Each reminds me about what I love about night – the stars, the lights and possibilities. So many great memories and photos of night to share from a few of my favorite cities:
London at Night
St. Paul’s Cathedral is striking during the day but stunning at night. Like much of London, being illuminated adds such a beauty and allure.
Dublin at Night
Revisiting Dublin twenty years later, I opted for a Dublin at Night photography tour with Dawn2Dusk. It was a wonderful way to see the city and such a contrast to my day time bike tour. Walking along the Liffey showcases the lights and the reflections on the water.
Paris at Night
Paris is a great idea day and night. At night, I wander looking for the special taxi from the movie “Midnight in Paris” to transport me back to the Paris of the 20’s. Walking along the Champs Elysees from the Arc de Triomphe to Place de la Concorde provides great views and on a clear night you can see the Eiffel Tower.
Philadelphia Photos at Night
My hometown provides great night time views as well. My favorite is the Liberty Bell after the crowds have left and the pavilion is closed for the night.
The Photos at “Night” theme brought back many great memories of pub nights, long walks, memorable talks, (too) many bottles of wine and great views. What are your favorite photos at night views and memories?
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I enrolled in a 1/2 day National Geographic Traveler Photography Seminar which was held in Philadelphia at a cost of $90. My session was entitled “The Art of Nature Photography” presented by Eddie Soloway. It was lecture of photo tips, examples and definitely not hands on given that there were over 200 attendees. The four hour seminar was broken into different sessions with a handout of highlights and references. Nature photography with the varying light, textures, depths, colors, etc. can be a lifetime of challenge and discovery and I was hoping for a bit of new insight.
While everyone needs to discover their own view, what made me smile was the session “How Come Mine Don’t Look Like That?” as I recalled the presentation at TBEX last year by Trey Radcliffe of Stuck in Customs. Trey’s HDR photography is one continual OMG! WOW! Both Trey and Eddie run photo workshops during the year for more hands on work, I’d love to be a student in those classes. Eddie shared his photo tips while showing examples of his work to demonstrate the point. His work also gets a WOW! His photos really gave me hope that all the crazy things I do and see has some value. I learned a few new ideas and it was encouraging to know that I was already doing a few of his suggestions already as I continue to experiment. My interpretations of a few of his photo tips using some of my favorite photos from my African safaris are above and below.
My Photo History
When I started to travel, I carried both color and black/white film in speeds such as 100 and 400 and with a maximum of 36 photos per roll. I had to be a bit deliberate with what I was taking a photo of since I was limited and hoped that it was good when I got home and waited a few days for the photos to be developed. I wanted it to be perfect. Not to sound THAT old, but I continue to be astounded by how much photography has changed with the digital camera and smartphone.
Everyone can be a photographer and share their slice of life around the world instantly on social media. My 11 year old niece proudly exclaims she has more Instagram follows than her Aunt Sue (if you’d like to help me beat her numbers, follow me on Instagram – shameful I know). Her feed allows me to see all the cool new clothes she likes, her pet cats and a bit too much One Direction. At her age, I was playing outside, ignorant to the world around me, now she takes photos of everything but I wonder if she stops to appreciate and experience it. I now take photos of everything as well, documenting my life and the world around me. With the hope of elevating my photography skills, I am always cognizant that I need to put the camera(s) down to use all of my senses to capture the experience for just me.
Digital has certainly changed how I travel and shoot photos – whereas I was limited to the ten canisters of film I traveled with (360 pictures), I now take thousands of photos on a longer trip, hoping to find a few gems. Gone is the worry of running out of film but also gone is the deliberate photo. I’ve had leeway to experiment along the way and am always seeking to learn more.
Safari Photo Tip #1 – Reveal part of your subject
The paw of the leopard laying on the ground seemingly docile. If I were to pull back this photo you would first see the beautiful leopard and to pull back further she is laying in front of a tree. Even further, you would see that she is guarding the impala that she killed and hung in her tree above her head. The paw doesn’t show this but seeing the dead animal above doesn’t quite make a nice photo either. Just an example of revealing a part of the photo as well as all of the other photos this could be.
Safari Photo Tip #2 – Photograph Outside of your Genre
I rarely take photos of people but there are exception as I continue to change my perspective and try to layer the photos that I set up, trying to tell a story about a moment in time. The background is Table Mountain and there was a bit too much of blue sky so I moved the camera to find my shot which included the couple.
Safari Photo Tip #3 – Change your Perspective
In the Okavango Delta, I was in a mokoro boat at the level of the reeds for my photos. How different would these be if I stood up or lied down? The guide’s view is much different from the passenger.
Safari Photo Tip #4 – Photograph through natural (found) filters or use selective focus
For this lioness, it would have been easy to just focus on her but I chose to focus on the grass instead creating what I feel is a bit of danger. What do you see?
Safari Photo Tip #5 – Anticipate the Moment
I had to wait a bit for the giraffe to bend over like this. It was worth the wait as it was amazing to see. Sometimes you need to slow down and wait for the photo to present itself to you.
Safari Photo Tip #6 – Play with Light
I love this giraffe shadowed as I shot into the sun (generally a no, no) but the outline is enough for you to know it’s a giraffe.
Safari Photo Tips – Final Thoughts
I loved that Eddie said “Be a detective of cool things” it made me realize that we need to channel our inner toddler experiencing things for the first time without boundaries. How many cool things have you discovered when you stood still for a moment and listened, looked and felt the experience? How did you choose to capture the moment?
]]>Our first stop, about an hour outside of Reykjavik along Highway 1, was a convenience store with restrooms that seemed to be “the stop” for all tour groups. Tip: Use the restroom first before the big buses get here and then buy your snacks (you will need snacks for the day).
The Black Sand Beach of Iceland
Given the weather, heavy fog and light rain, our guide, Baldvin, decided to drive to the Black Sand Beach, Reynisfjara, near Vik as our first stop passing the waterfalls (where the other groups were). Along the way, we dropped off a couple at the Sólheimajökull Glacier entrance as they were doing a glacier walk (we would be back to visit later).
The ride to the beach along the two lane road was uneventful, where the fog had lifted you could see the hills/mountains, the vast landscapes and some animals. As it was winter, the puffins were not in residence (there is a stop in summer when they are). Arriving at the beach, it was windy,cold, rainy and still foggy and yet, just lovely. The black sand, the thick fog, the roaring ocean, all made for a mysterious, moody visit.
We all scattered to walk the beach, explore the small caves, marvel at the rock formations and sea stacks and try to keep our cameras dry while we photographed it all.
The Lighthouse at the End of the World of Iceland
At our next stop, Baldvin told us that the nearest land ahead was Antarctica so we were pretty much at the end of the world (or the end of Iceland). Was this true? It sounded nice so no one really questioned it. We had a short walk uphill to the lighthouse and then an uneven hike downhill (remember the further down you go, the more uphill you need to do).
A few walked ahead to the edge of the cliffs where they were closer to the birds along the inlet that flew by, others explored different parts of the edges, me? I took their photos! For a brief time, we saw the sun and then it was gone! It was there just enough to appreciate after the days of rain, clouds and fog.
Lunchtime – South Coast of Iceland
Our lunch stop was part convenience store (again, get a snack) and part short order grill (the larger restaurant in back was for summer tour groups) with seating. As the website mentioned, there would be no fancy food today despite the prices. On the menu was lamb stew, toasted sandwiches and burgers/fries. I was able to get a ham sandwich with a side of fries. No cash needed as they accept credit cards here. I talked with the guy from Australia about his one year RTW journey which was ending after Iceland with a quick stop in Bali (of course) before home to the Gold Coast.
The Glacier Tongue Sólheimajökull
I had to laugh that we were stopping to see the glacier tongue, it just sounds funny. At the end of the day it’s still a glacier and no matter what part of it you see, I think you will be impressed. There was a small 15 minute walk to see the glacier, it was relatively easy to do. Then there is uneven hilly terrain if you choose to go further.
The lake had small pieces of glacier floating in it and with the overcast skies, the glacier looked dirty, not the crisp white and blue I’ve seen elsewhere in Alaska and New Zealand. Having snowmobiled on a glacier on the Golden Circle, this was a different view, albeit much smaller side of a glacier. Still pretty though despite the heavy fog covering most of our view.
The South Coast of Iceland Waterfalls – Skógafoss & Seljalandsfoss
Having skipped the waterfalls in the morning due to the rain and fog, it was a good decision to go later when the rains had stopped but we were now chasing what was left of the light. With sunset at 4:30 p.m. or so, we would definitely lose the light but did our best anyway. The first waterfall, Skógafoss we viewed from the Skógá river bank and then had the opportunity to climb the stairs to either another vantage point halfway up (which was muddy and tricky as one couple had experienced) or really get an aerobic workout climbing to the very top.
It’s one of largest in the country with a 200 ft drop and has a lore about buried treasure. It’s worth the steep climb up (just take breaks along the way as needed). For an added thrill, you can climb the step-ladder over the wire fence to walk along the top and see yet another view (I skipped this one as the muddy field seemed slippery for me as I’m clumsy anyway).
We arrived in the dark at the second waterfall, Seljalandsfoss. While this could have been an issue, they light this waterfall up so you can still enjoy the view at night.
For those wanting a challenging view of a waterfall, you can trek behind it. There are stairs to a point and then you are on your own with the rocks – it was wet (obviously from the powerful waterfall) and dark (we all seemed to have flashlights (torches) to guide us). The roaring noise of the water’s rush was the first thing I noticed standing behind the waterfall, getting soaked from the spray was the other. In the dark, photos were not an option, I tried video but only the sound was recorded. The group was good to stay together to ensure everyone was ok.
The Last Snack Stand – South Coast of Iceland Tour
Wanting a bottle of water for the long ride back to Reykjavik, I was unsure if the snack stand would take my credit card as I had no cash for the weekend. Relieved when I saw the credit card machine, I bought two bottles of water. They had a good variety of sandwiches and snacks (the theme of the day). There are three outdoor restrooms (slightly upgraded porta potties) here, given that the ride is over an hour back, do utilize this option.
Final Thoughts – South Coast of Iceland Tour with GeoIceland
The South Coast of Iceland was quite beautiful and the added allure of the rain and fog made it even moreso. With the small group, we were able to make changes to the itinerary that worked in our favor (we rarely encountered crowds or other tour groups) and were given enough time at each stop without issue if someone was five minutes late. It was a long day (returning at 7:30 p.m.) and the mix of people on the tour made for interesting conversations which is always an added bonus when traveling. Iceland really does nature well, in the rain and fog anyway, I can’t wait to see it in the summer sun!
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For a month, my travels had been plagued with rain in both Dublin and London and while not quite surprising in either city, I was looking forward to my Australia trip – my suitcase was packed with sunscreen, flip flops and summer clothes (my sneakers were thrown in last minute for the Bridge Climb as flip flops wouldn’t cut it). The weather app showed temps in the high 80’s with many pictures of the sun, the same sunny pictures missing in Dublin and London. How would my photos of Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart turn out?
With each leg of the journey to Melbourne (and eventually Sydney), I would slowly see the happy sun graphic slowly leaving my weather forecast replaced with dark clouds, rain and lightning bolts. Cooler temperatures were also moving in. I was a bit skeptical because this was Australia and it’s always sunny and warm according to all of the marketing materials! While Melbourne “has four seasons in one day” (a claim I would dispute not having seen snow during my visit), Sydney seemed to be the city of the sun – I can’t recall ever seeing a photo of the city in the clouds or rain (spoiler alert! you can see those photos of a rainy Sydney).
After three days of rain in Melbourne with a casualty (my trusty travel umbrella could take no more), my weather app showed the sun making a brief appearance in Sydney for one day – the day I would arrive. For me, by the time I made it to the hotel at 2pm, I had barely 1/2 day to chase the sun for the good photos of Sydney. With a warm day that drove people to sunbath in Hyde Park across from the hotel, I changed from my dark, grey, Melbourne three days of rain uniform to a lightweight, colorful outfit complete with sandals, sunscreen and sunglasses. Filled with possibilities, albeit with a ticking clock until sunset, the city was mine to explore.
As this was my third trip to Sydney and knowing that the sun was fleeting, I quickly walked from Hyde Park down to the Quay to board the ferry to Manly where I knew I could get to the beach, have lunch with a great view of the water and just take in the sun. If you have limited time, the trip to Manly provides fantastic views of the city – the Opera House, Harbour Bridge, Luna Park, Mrs. Macquarie’s seat along with homes, boats and military sites. Just being on the water was enough to recharge me my spirit and remind me that this was my Australia birthday vacation to enjoy.
Disembarking the ferry, I crossed the street walking with the crowds passing the many storefronts toward the beach – I was on a mission. While I should have taken my shoes off to dig my toes in the sand, I was more interested in people watching and capturing the daily life on the beach with my limited time (yes, I know I need to stop and smell the roses (or saltwater) sometimes).
With a plethora of cafes along the beach front road, I chose one that has outdoor seating and was still serving lunch at 4pm. The food was fine, the wine even better and the calming nature of the beach enveloped me and beckoned to stay longer but alas, the return ferry time was quickly approaching so I would need to hurry back to the terminal.
Having not seen the sun for a few days, it was refreshing to sit outside relaxing despite the sun in my eyes (no complaining allowed) . As the iconic sails of the Opera House came into view, I realized that it was too early for sunset over the bridge so an adjustment of the plan was needed.
At Circular Quay, I walked toward the bridge stairs to the pedestrian walkway. On my last visit to Sydney, my bike tour rode over the bridge which was a highlight, this time I would walk the bridge stopping along the way for photos. At first, I had the walkway to myself before it became busy with runners, tourists and even groups of schoolchildren so you need to be careful when stopping as someone might be behind you.
The sun was starting to set so as I walked back toward the Quay, I chose the path toward the Botanical Garden not knowing that there is no turnaround and that the path with runners ran along the side of the very busy highway passing in front of the cityscape. I continued walking until there was a break in the path leading to an area overlooking the harbour. It was here that I met a local man reading a book while his camera was set up to take photos of the sunset in the harbour.
Not wanting to sit for an hour waiting on the sunset, I lucked out finding the elevator down to the waterfront. Once there, I walked toward the Opera House. It was a Thursday night with perfect weather so the area was packed with happy hour people who were enjoying the cool evening with perfect view of Sydney – the lights of the bridge, the city and the Opera House – simply stunning.
Walking for miles I was able to enjoy the Sydney that we all know – bright and pretty (unlike the city I would discover over the next four days of rain). For now, in this moment, it was a good day – I caught the sun and it made me smile. I captured the photos of Sydney that matched my memories. Looking above the Opera House, I said “Goodnight, Moon, Goodnight Sydney” before falling, exhausted, into a cab back to the hotel.
Originally posted January of 2014 but with winter finally arriving in Philadelphia, I thought we could all use a bit of sunny warm weather photos of Sydney – don’t you agree? Now is the time to plan your trip to Australia for before the American Airlines miles devaluation in March 2016. Contact me to help you plan an awesome visit!
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“What do we do on Gozo” I asked my friend. He replied “we relax”. Relax? As a solo traveler for so long, relax isn’t usually in my vocabulary as I try to see as much as I can in a short period of time. I’m not quite “check the box” traveler but the over the top Type A, need a vacation from my vacation type of traveler. Sometimes, I will schedule a spa day to relax (notice I have to “schedule” a relaxing day, oh the irony!) Here I was traveling with a longtime friend for the first time, without any photos of Gozo to research in advance, and being told all I’m going to do is relax – “You need to chill out” he said (easier said than done) knowing that I had run away from home. For any East Coast, city Type A girl, like me, being told you are doing absolutely nothing for the next twelve (ended up as nineteen) days is scary. It was a test I was likely to fail, or so I thought.
On day three, I was full of stress, nowhere near a relaxing state at the nightmare Airbnb house. I didn’t anticipate fracturing my foot on day three but the universe decided I needed a “push” to relax. Getting hurt and not being able to walk without pain and swelling isn’t the ideal situation for a vacation, however, it was my reality. With all of my plans and schedules shot to hell, I had to just wave the white flag and surrender to this island life and chill out. If you look at the Visit Malta website, their Gozo page states “For those who wish to switch off and regenerate, Gozo is the place to be“. Fair enough, let’s see…..we hit “reset” on our holiday at the five star luxury Kempinski Gozo hotel.
My new schedule became a daily routine of new lunch spot (some with water views) followed by light walking/sightseeing on different parts of the island. It’s a small island but surprisingly there so much to see along the coastlines of the many villages. Arriving back to the house, it was time to ice and then elevate my foot before pool time and our daily ice cream break (I’m a new fan of Magnum ice cream bars). From there we had happy hour before getting ready for dinner at the local café.
Without the option of driving myself (they drive on the left) or walking to escape (foot injury), I had no other option than to roll with it and “relax”. While I thought I might fail to embrace the whole relaxing vacation, I passed with flying colors – a gold star only to sadly leave the island and rejoin society. Enjoy my highlights with the photos of Gozo.
Photos of Gozo at Hondoq Bay
In the village of Qala, you will find Hondoq Bay. Its gorgeous view will make you forget that the area is primarily rocky (bad for my foot). It has many ladders to easily get you into the water. We would do a light hike up the side to see the inlets that my friend swam as a child. Sadly, my injury prevented further exploration and swimming at the time.
Xlendi Bay
With lights sparkling around the bay and lights in the distance from the boats, dining was interesting as the water was crashing along the wall next to our table and I was sure we would get soaked but we didn’t. This is the daytime view.
The Azure Window of Gozo
The iconic view of the Azure window was stunning and well worth the time to slowly walk out on the uneven surfaces. You can swim in the water as many folks were doing except for the young guy in my photo that stood there for more than ten minutes as all of the photographers just wanted him to jump into the water with his friends and out of our frame.
Note: Sadly, the sea reclaimed The Azure Window in March of 2017 and the window is gone, which made me so sad, however, it is still worth the visit as the views are lovely nonetheless. It is a reminder that nature is quite powerful in building and destroying the earth.
On Gozo – The Inland Sea
The sign points down the hill and yet many people miss this hidden gem. Every twenty minutes there is a guy in his boat who will take you on a quick trip (for a small fee and tip) through the cave and out into the sea to see the Azure window from the water. There were four of us on the tour and you can see the sheer scale of the cliffs on the island. This was one of my favorite activities to be on the water.
Ta’ Cenc Cliffs
We drove around following the signs and then there were no signs. We couldn’t find the Ta’ Cenc Cliffs and stopped a kid on his bike and he pointed to walk through the fields. We trusted him and started walking over the rocks, through the bush and were rewarded with this view of the island. Having been on the water down below looking up, this was my view high above looking down. Just stunning.
Photos of Gozo Salt Pans
The sea crashed on the island and leaves its salt behind. The salt pans collect the salt and are then emptied and sold on the island. Natural sea salt. The largest collection of salt pans are in Zebbug past Marselforn (go there for lunch first) but you will also see others around the island.
Center of Gozo in Victoria
Victoria is the heart of the island and where you will find the stores, bus station and the historic Citadel.
Ramla Beach
For a true sand beach, we visited Ramla beach for our lunch (there are a few food stands). As it was later in the day, renting an umbrella and chair made no sense with only a few good hours left. We found an empty spot to put our towels and waded into the water. The water was shallow for a good part of the trek in but was so warm and inviting. You had to swim a far way out to get above your waist. It was the first time in years, that I had been in the ocean and it was fantastic. The clear waters were definitely a stark change from the Jersey shore. This was truly the place to sit in the sun, relax and be carefree.
Most folks are visiting Gozo for the day from Malta. They hop on the big red double decker bus, join a tour, snorkel or are fearless and rely on the local transit. You can easily tick off the boxes for most of the above sights but I was lucky to live on the island for three weeks and take it all in as an adventure to discover. That’s what so great about the island, at first, I didn’t see the potential, but I learned to relax, disconnect from the world and regenerate anew. Misson Accomplished!
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