We are now one step closer to my favorite things (Scotland version) – the Highlands, Whiskey and Shortbread Biscuits now that American Airlines launched their new (seasonal) direct flights from Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) to Edinburgh (EDI) this week.  For East Coast travelers that fly out of Philadelphia, this is great news as we don’t have to connect via London Heathrow (LHR) anymore.

What’s nice about this new service is that you can have two holidays (vacations) in one if you book a flight to Edinburgh and home from London on American Airlines (OneWorld partner of British Airways) or vice versa during the seasonal service period. There are frequent East Coast direct trains between Edinburgh and London which take you from city centre to city centre with no need to deal with airport security, baggage check and the stresses of the airport. So maybe consider a plane – train – plane option for your next trip to the United Kingdom.

So what to do in and around Edinburgh?  There’s a checklist of attractions for the first time visitor as well as many tempting private whiskey or golf tours to arrange.  Or you can choose to enjoy the food, drink and shopping. A few highlights from my last trip to Edinburgh.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh and What to Do

When trying to decide where to stay in Edinburgh, I consulted my go to guide at the Telegraph – Travel Section.  I saw that the Sheraton Edinburgh was rated highly and I had point to use so that was an easy decision.  Using my Marriott hotel points, I booked an award stay at the centrally located Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa Edinburgh.  The Edinburgh castle view room was perfect base for exploring the city by foot.  Lining the main road outside the hotel were restaurants, pubs, a movie theatre and other convenient shops.  Walking ten minutes in one direction took you to the shopping of Princes Street and the pedestrian zone.  Ten minutes in the other direction you arrive at the Royal Mile.  At one end is the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the Queen in Scotland (not to be confused with Balmoral, the Queen’s privately owned home in Scotland) and at the other end is Edinburgh Castle where you can explore with a guide or do it yourself.   In between these two castles is a street (the Royal Mile) full of life day and night.  Tourists trying to get the best selfie, lining up for ghost tours or bus tours of the Highlands.  Other visitors are exploring The Real Mary King’s Close (a quirky visit into a hidden street and life of residents in the past), St. Giles cathedral and a plethora of souvenir shops.

Day Trip to the Scottish Highlands

I was tempted to book a whisky tour but since I had done that on a previous trip, I decided to book a day trip to the Scottish Highlands and Stirling Castle with Timberbush Tours. The small tour bus held a maximum of twenty passengers but wasn’t full that day.  Our driver and guide was retired from the government where he held senior level and dignitary roles which made him more than qualified (really overqualified really) to lead us around town and out of the city. When he wasn’t talking, he regaled us with Scottish music that added a lovely bagpipe background to the views going by. Along the highway we passed the Kelpies art sculptures.  We would visit Stirling Castle, which I preferred over Edinburgh Castle, as it was less crowded and had actors reenacting castle residents telling tales of the fashion, architecture and life of a castle resident. It added a bit more color to the self-guided visit.

A leisurely boat ride on Loch Lomond was the perfect entry point to the calm and serenity of the glorious nature and natural beauty that is Scotland. The final stop of the day was to visit Fiona, a Scottish Hairy Coo (Cow).  Like a dog running to see its owner, Fiona only needed to hear her name to come over to see our guide with the carrots for her. You can’t pet her but you can get close enough for a selfie if you dare.

Day Trip to St. Andrew’s and St. Andrew’s Golf Club

You can join an organized tour from the city or take the local train to St. Andrew’s for the day.  The high street is filled with shops and restaurants.  At one end of town the famous cemetery is open to visitors and a twenty minute walk near the center of town is the legendary home of golf at the Old Course at St. Andrew’s Golf Club. You need to reserve your tee times and qualify to play on the Old Course.  If you want to learn more about the origins of the modern golf tournament and learn who was that guy in the cemetery who passed on Christmas Day, then find the 2016 movie “Tommy’s Honour“

In Search of Loch Ness Monster

The legend and the lure of Loch Ness.  Over twenty years ago, I endured the very, very, very, long bus ride (3.5 hours each way give/take) to Loch Ness which is a lake far, far, away from Edinburgh. There, you can ride a boat on the lake in search of Nessie.  Maybe you will have better luck than I did.  For those short on time, Loch Ness can be skipped because a 12+hr tour day with nearly 8+ hours on a bus isn’t the best way to explore Scotland in my opinion.  I’ve endured it (in the time before smartphones, headsets and playlists) so you don’t have too. But if you absolutely must, be prepared for a long day on a bus (or in the car) – bring entertainment and some snacks. Scotland’s beauty is the stunning nature and you will see that at least at Loch Ness.

Train from Edinburgh to London

Once you have had a bit of the city (Edinburgh), the country (Scottish Highlands) and your fill of whiskey, it’s time to stock up on the shortbread biscuits and board the East Coast train to London (or points in between).  The four hour journey has a few stops but otherwise is a lovely way to spend the day watching the world (and sea) go by. From city center to city center, the stress of the airport journey is all gone and you can use Wi-Fi to keep up with the world on social media or escape to a streaming or downloaded movie. When do you ever get four hours to just chill?  Enjoy the train, the scenery and prepare for the vast difference in cities.

Now that Philadelphia to Edinburgh is a possibility, it also opens up the world to your award points and miles.  If the flight to London doesn’t have any award seats, consider a one way to Edinburgh and then search for a flight home from London.  Edinburgh can be a quick getaway (three days in Edinburgh is a good Scotland sample) or longer if you add other Scottish cities in (easily reachable by train) or venture further afield to London for a few days.  Ah the possibilities…..

Update: Note that as of June 24, 2018, London North Eastern Railway (LNER) will take over this route from Virgin East Coast (which I used during my travels).  Much will remain (including the great views along the way) the same as I understand it with staff transferring – it will take time to see new equipment and the rebranding.

For once in my travels, I actually missed a nightmare travel day because I chose to spend hours on the train Edinburgh to London rather than fly.  My First Class Virgin East Coast train ride would occur one day after the failure of the British Airways computer system in which thousands of flights were grounded and canceled from London Heathrow (and Gatwick).  The flights to/from Edinburgh from those airports were canceled for a few days until operations resumed to normal (I totally forgot about London City flights). Normally I would have flown between the two cities but today I would be happily seated on the Virgin East Coast train from Edinburgh to London First Class staring out the window at the pretty views and stuffing my face with shortbread cookies.

Deciding on a Train Edinburgh to London First Class

At the time I was planning my three days in Edinburgh with flights from Philly on British Airways, I chose to fly to Edinburgh but take the train back to London on a Sunday afternoon.  It was slightly more expensive to do so rather than just fly between the cities on my ticket but I wanted something different than a three hour plus airport experience for a one hour flight.  The nearly four and a half hours on the train offered:

• Leg Room with Space in my Single Seat Window View
• No Security Pat-Down or Wait
• No Checked Baggage Fee (just put luggage in storage racks in train car and/or on shelf above your seat)
• No strangers to squeeze next to in the plane
• No boarding queue
• No waiting on the runway for our take off slot
• Free Shortbread Biscuits (cookies)
• Free Food & Drink
• Free Wifi
• Free Entertainment via BEAM app of Movies, TV shows, Kids Animation, Games, Magazines
• Edinburgh City Center to London City Center
• Avoiding Heathrow
• Avoiding Baggage Claim
• Avoiding the 1 hr journey from Heathrow to London

I could go on…..suffice it to say, the train seemed a perfect swap for about the same journey time. A one hour flight is really end to end over four hours from hotel to hotel at a cost that adds up (taxi/train from hotel, baggage fees, food at airport, wifi, taxi/train to hotel, etc.). Others might choose the Scottish Rail option, Mega Bus, National Express or to drive between cities – each is a viable alternative but costs vary as does journey time. London City Airport is also an option for those that want to be away from LHR. For me, the Virgin East Coast train was the winner.

Virgin East Coast First Class Train Edinburgh to London

Trains in the U.K. are not cheap, but to me the £58.50 one way first class ticket from Virgin East Coast seemed a good deal just slightly more than the coach (standard) ticket at the time (others might declare me mad I’m sure).  I bought it online at the Virgin East Coast train website in advance and snagged one of the last discounted tickets that day. Advanced discount tickets sell out quickly and prices go up as you get closer to the journey date.  The Virgin East Coast First Class train Edinburgh to London fare would include access to the First Class Lounge at the Edinburgh train station as well as free food and drinks onboard.  As it was a bank holiday weekend, the food/drink options were limited and would not include alcohol (a bit annoyed by that one) but I survived and brought my own food with me.

Unlike the long lines (queues) of Amtrak in the U.S. where you need to strategically work a good spot to find a good seat as they are not pre-assigned, with Virgin East Coast trains you pick your seat at booking.  Everyone picks a seat which makes it all so civil – the boarding track is open, you find your train car, put luggage in the storage area, and find your seat with space above for smaller bags.  Nice and easy.   For me, I was interested in the single seats rather than the shared four top tables.  The single seats had the coastal views although I did have to travel backwards facing those across from me.

First Impressions – Virgin East Coast First Class Single Seat

Boarding, I found coach L and, of course, boarded on the wrong end as my seat number was 5.   I first noticed the grey plaid flooring and the leather seats. I quickly loaded my luggage in the storage area and then looked for my seat. I tried not to laugh but my seat table was down and set for tea.  The English do take their tea seriously.

Realizing I was at the opposite end, I retrieved my luggage and moved to the storage space nearest my seat. The train car was bright and spacious. The windows were large to enjoy the views and each end of the train held a luggage rack for storage.  The leather seats were large and comfortable with individual power on the side.

One quibble is that my tray table didn’t fully go up to give me more leg room.  I was the exception not to have a laptop open to work on or enjoying tea time.  I had a book and wanted to cross my legs and get slouchy to read which was a bit hard with the fixed table position. The middle does go up which helps a bit.

The Coastal Views of the U.K.

Once we left the Edinburgh train station, the city buildings slowly melted away and the views of the coast emerged on my side of the train which is why I picked this seat which was riding backwards. I saw the ocean, beaches below and many relaxing landscape views of Scotland. This is why you travel by train – to be awed by the views (note in the US on the East Coast the views are in no way awe inspiring which makes the European journeys that much better).  We would stop just four times – York was familiar but Grantham made me think of Downton Abbey.

The Virgin Trains BEAM app

Prior to your trip, you will receive emails letting you know what to expect onboard.  One the emails, reminded me to download the BEAM app prior to boarding.  Right now only IOS and Android versions are available. The BEAM app would provide wifi access on board as well as a myriad of video options to watch during the train journey.  You do need to register to use the wifi and access content onboard.

Categories included Movies, TV Shows, Little Ones, Reads, Games and Shorts. Movies such as Avengers: Age of Ultron, Guardians of the Galaxy, Fast and Furious 7 to films like Boyhood, Birdman, In Bruges and classic comedies like Blades of Glory and Anchorman.  TV shows like my favorite Catastrophe (a UK comedy), House of Cards, Gotham and An Idiot Abroad. For little ones there was animated favorites Beauty and the Beast, Dora the Explorer and Minions to name a few.

I could also use the BEAM app to see where in our journey we were with a live map and train information. It also listed the food menus which was good to know if a trip to the café car was needed. The prices listed on the food menu were actually quite reasonable, in my opinion, with a plethora of items on offer.

The BEAM app was a nice complement to the Virgin East Coast train journey.  It also listed the Foodbar menu items in the Cafe car.

First Class Food – Virgin Train Edinburgh to London

The first class menu has just been upgraded by Virgin East Coast trains and was curated by a chef in the UK.  For a train, I have to say it was quite an impressive menu during the week. As the first class cars were serviced by two staff, the food trolley went through first with a drinks cart (no alcohol today) followed by a food trolley.

With a modified food schedule, I had the choice of two pre-made and packaged sandwiches (a duck wrap or an egg and rocket sandwich), shortbread biscuits (cookies), lemon poppy seed muffin, crisps and fruit.  I had gone online prior to check out the menu offerings in First class as well as the food café car (Foodbar) so I chose to go to M&S in the train station before boarding so I could bring my own food onboard.

After each stop, a new set of trolleys and employees appeared to feed us and offer drinks.  You won’t go hungry or thirsty on the Virgin East Coast train from Edinburgh to London in First Class. You may overdose on cookies though (like I did) and find some stuffed in your backpack two weeks later when you are home.

The Virgin East Coast Train Bathrooms

My seat was at the end of the train car with not only accessible seating (we would have a passenger board who used this seating) but an extremely large accessible toilet (bathroom).   The other end of the train car had a normal (small) train bathroom. The accessible bathroom was quite advanced with features that my inner OCD traveler was impressed that I didn’t need to touch anything (a quick elbow in and out).

The accessible bathroom also included a changing table and was large enough for a mum and two kids.  The smooth ride made it easy to use throughout the journey unlike Amtrak where you can feel like a pinball in a machine.

Train Edinburgh to London Arrives in Kings Cross

The train arrived on time to London King’s Cross and the journey went by quickly, almost too quickly.  I was really impressed with the travel from start to finish (ok, except for the fixed table).  I would definitely travel by Virgin East Coast train again in First Class, next time choosing the Quiet Car.  While the Brits may complain about train travel in the U.K., they really need to come to the U.S. to better appreciate what they have access to despite its unending rail works, delays and costs.  Train travel in the U.K. was quite pleasant on my train Edinburgh to London in First Class.

Everyone knows about airline lounges at the airport but what about the train station?  I guess I never really thought about having a lounge at the train station since I’m generally arriving close to departure time figuring out how quickly I can toss my luggage onboard and find space.  Having purchased a Virgin East Coast train First Class ticket from Edinburgh Waverly to London King’s Cross, I was entitled to use the Virgin First Class lounge Edinburgh prior to departure.  This meant I arrived at the Waverly train station in advance to check it out. It was my first time on a Virgin train and the first time visiting their lounge, which I first had to find. Lots of firsts!

Virgin East Coast Train – Edinburgh to London

The taxi dropped me off at the train station entry closest to the departure track which normally would be fine but in this case I first had to go to the kiosk for my ticket and then to the lounge, both on the lower level and on the other side of the station which meant a walk and then an escalator. Note: Ask the Taxi driver to let you off on the Princes’ Street side of the station. 

The kiosks were quickest way to retrieve tickets as the queues were quite long in the office for live help.  With ticket in hand, I was now able to enter the lounge, wherever it may be hiding (it wasn’t attached to the office as I thought it might be or in the hall with the shops and restaurant).  Exiting back into the chaos of the train station with folks and their luggage going this, that and every way I followed the signs and made a left away from the station and on the closed road which was probably used in the past toward a quiet track in the back.  There I saw signs leading me to the lounge.

Virgin First Class Lounge Edinburgh

As I entered the Virgin Trains Customer Service office, I was greeted by two staff members who serve as customer assistance for passengers using the lounge, those needing mobility assistance and other queries.  I showed my ticket and was directed to the door on the left which led to the lift or carpeted stairs to go up one level.  I laughed when asked where I was from and another passenger said “I know, you are from my homeland of Canada, you’re Canadian”, I shook my head and said “sorry, American” and he said “no you’re not”.

As I entered the lounge, the first noises I heard were from me – my luggage wheels were making loud noises on the hardwood floor and I was getting those glances from other passengers lounging in the leather chairs in the fireplace room reading the newspaper.  Walking past the first small lounge area that was full (all four people in chairs), I went to the larger (longer) space along the windows which was empty and found a comfy blue plaid chair to plop into.  As it was Sunday morning of the May Bank Holiday weekend, it was pin drop quiet except for my noises and a nice respite from the busy station.

Virgin First Class Lounge Full of Style

Then as stealth as I could be (not at all), I took photos of the space – the smartly designed chairs of all sizes and colors, some using soft leather, while others a plaid nod to Scotland. With a variety of seating options – small area for two, high top privacy sofas, open group working spaces and a child’s area the small lounge made excellent use of the space. There is a counter space to work with sufficient outlets.  The lounge offers free wifi and a few television monitors to keep up with the news of the day.

Virgin First Class Lounge Edinburgh Refreshments

The “free refreshments” consisted of the café space on the counter with soft drinks and two hot drinks machines. The snack were located behind in two baskets – one with yummy Scottish butter biscuits (cookies, which would be served on the train as well), the other with crisps (potato chips). Despite the small selection, it was still a nice option to have included in the ticket.

Virgin Trains BEAM mobile app

Traveling First Class on Virgin East Coast, I had received an email inviting me to download their app BEAM.  Using BEAM, I could access free television and movies for my journey using the free wifi on the train.  I easily downloaded the app while waiting in the lounge.

Time to Leave the Virgin First Class Lounge Edinburgh

Using the motto “pee before you flee”, I went to use the restroom prior to boarding the train. There was one bathroom that I saw that was in a bit of disarray – I’m not sure because of the bank holiday weekend it was littered or unfinished or if this is the normal state.  It appears that a shower is either going in or being removed.  I can’t imagine having to wait for the bathroom until someone is done showering, or why one would shower at the train station anyway.

I then filled my backpack with handfuls of biscuits (I was a cookie monster that day but still left enough for others in the basket) and mini bottled waters, I signed the visitor log as other international travelers had done and left the lounge to go search for food to bring with me on my 4.5 hour journey to London (It was a bank holiday weekend and the catering was light with no free alcohol – oh the horror!).  Lucky for me there was an M&S to stock up on a sandwich, fruit, crisps and other fun items to accompany my onboard options.

Overall Impression – Virgin First Class Lounge Edinburgh

The lounge is a quiet area to wait, at least it was on my Bank Holiday Sunday morning visit. I’m not sure how busy (or loud) it gets during the work week when the trains are much more crowded.  Its nice that Virgin Trains has invested in the lounge to provide it’s first class guests with a relaxing space prior to their journey.  You can see that they spent some money and put thought into the design details of the lounge, they could do with enhancing the food options in the future. But for one day, this Canadian, American girl enjoyed the free biscuits and the quiet of the Virgin East Coast lounge at Edinburgh’s Waverly train station.  It was a nice perk to the start of my first Virgin East Coast Train First Class experience.

All Aboard! My journey from Edinburgh to London on Virgin’s East Coast First Class is about to begin!

There’s a table full of Scottish shortbread cookies (and healthy apples) that I was drawn to in the lobby at check in – I knew I was going to like it here. Here was the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa located in Festival Square. My weekend trip to Edinburgh was a quick one with only a three night stay at the luxury hotel in Edinburgh which would be just enough time to explore the city and beyond for highlights of Scotland. Using my points, this was an award stay which was still a good deal for me over the May bank holiday (and marathon) weekend when rates were higher than normal.

Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel Location in Festival Square

Festival Square turned out to be a great base for my stay as I love to walk everywhere.  Shopping on Princes Street and the local parks were a quick 5-10 minute walk while Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile was 15-20 minutes (uphill and stairs take time depending on your cardio levels).  While the hotel faced the castle, it was not an easy walk straight.  The hotel is in front of the conference center and across from the movie theatres, live performance hall and has many restaurants (mostly chains which are good), pubs and a Tesco nearby.

Edinburgh Sheraton Arrival & Front Desk

The cab pulled into a private entrance off of the street and was met by the bellman who welcomed me to the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa.  If I had any doubts where I was, he was dressed in a kilt so I was most definitely in Scotland. He asked me my name as we walked inside as he took my bag.  I was directed to the front desk and he introduced me to the front desk staff for the handover and check in.  I had requested an early check in of noon as I was arriving on the overnight flight from Philly which connected in London so I hadn’t slept but really just needed a shower to wake up.  The front desk was very friendly to welcome me, explain the hotel features and the surrounding area. When asked if this was my first visit, I said “I was here over twenty years ago so essentially it’s all new to me again”. My key card was then handed over as I was told that I was upgraded to the preferred floor and given an Edinburgh Castle view – two bonuses for me.  The front desk staff were extremely friendly and chatty during my stay.

Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Lobby Area

At most hotels, the lobby is where the action is, however at the Edinburgh Sheraton, its mostly used as a meeting spot, business center and for the front desk and concierge.  The exit is to the driveway so most guests will use the 2^nd floor exit/entrance to Festival Square to access the main road, transportation and begin their trek outside.  With that, I only visited the lobby when my tours picked me up and of course to stock up on the complimentary butter biscuits that welcomed me to the hotel.

The décor and layout was quite nice as the Sheratons are upping their game in my opinion, a long way away from the boring beige that I tend to associate with a Sheraton.   The lobby had the Link Business Center, a television seating area, an open seating area, a lovely art collection and a private whisky tasting area roped off that day for a special tour group.

Edinburgh Sheraton Grand King Room

The elevators require a key swipe to access guest sleeping floors. I would be on the 6^th floor of the seven story hotel.  My room was close to the elevator bank (four rooms away) but I was only bothered by noise on one morning as loud people were walking by.  The hallway rug was a relaxing brown plaid, an ode to the kilt.

As I entered the room, it was definitely surprising in a good way.  My Sheraton expectations were definitely exceeded just like in London at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane. The Edinburgh Sheraton room had wooden floors, a rug feature around the bed and a view of the castle up on the hill.

On the left, I had the master room switches, closets of storage (plus slippers and robes) and drawers for the minibar and coffee maker.  Impressive was the drawer of glasses similarly featured as they are at the Westin Sydney.  So obviously the designers are borrowing cool features from other hotels.

The flat screen television welcomed me to the hotel and the desk was large to work on with a comfortable leather chair.  The room also included a seating area along the windows.

My view did in fact include the Edinburgh Castle up on the hill so that was cool, the downside to facing the front of the square was the noise below from the bar and outside folks from the wedding party one night.  Other than that it was quiet as no events were planned in the square during my stay (definitely check during your visit).

The King bed was a Sheraton Sleeper bed, which like the Westin’s Heavenly Bed, is a hotel bedding product that provides a wonderful sleep experience. The wall behind the bed was mirrored which helped make the room feel bigger. The room darkening drapes did allow some light in the room (not much) from above where they were not flush to the wall. Next to the bed, each side had room controls, a side table and light.

The hotel participates in the Green Program offering points to forgo daily maid service.  With a quick stay, I was happy to participate, collect my points and reuse my towels and sheets.  The only downside is that the SPG Preferred complimentary bottles of water weren’t refilled each day.  The front desk said that they would send me bottles water if I wanted.

Tempted as I was to just fall into bed and sleep after the long journey, I chose to experience the shower instead so I could find food and explore the city. I could sleep later.

The Edinburgh Sheraton Grand King Room Bathroom

A somewhat open plan bathroom with frosted glass, the bathroom was quite impressive but also a bit dark (note: makeup application was tricky).  There is a bathtub with loofah, a stall shower, toilet room and sink area with shelving underneath.  The toiletries are standard Sheraton, which are fine but not that great (or chipmunk worthy).  Here is where the Sheraton could use an upgrade in presentation and experience. An interesting feature was the door swung close to either the toilet room or the bathroom.

Sadly, one area that was disappointing was one of my major hotel pet peeves – the hair dryer bolted inside the desk drawer.  I absolutely hate this – love the hair dryer but please set it free!

The Concierge Team at the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel

A week before my stay, I contacted the Concierge team for suggestions on what to do and where to eat.  A member of the team quickly answered me with a plethora of options.  When I asked to know more about tour operators and destinations, another team member replied with two preferred providers and his opinion to avoid Loch Ness tour as its all day on the bus with little time off the bus.  As I had done this a long time ago and the monster wasn’t seen then, I had no interest in a long bus ride again so I chose a different tour – one to the Highlands with Timberbush Tours (note: I booked the tour on the vendor website, but to get picked up at the hotel, the concierge needs to make the reservation.  They modified for me when I arrived and it was nice to have a hotel pickup/drop off and save time).

On site the team was great to book my Edinburgh Castle ticket which allowed me to walk up to the entrance and skip the ticket line.   I also was given recommendations for my St. Andrew’s visit as to the best fish/chips and bakery in town (subjective obviously).   The Concierge team was definitely a highlight at the hotel.

One Square Restaurant & Bar at the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel

Breakfast is served on the 2^nd floor at One Square Restaurant.  There is a buffet as well as ala carte offerings.  Arranged in a separate space, there is juice/smoothies on one table, fruit on another.  The hot bar of breakfast foods is in a U shape with a chef making omelets.  On the other side of the room is the bread table which included gluten free bread and cereal bar.

When the hostess walked me through the buffet room before seating me, I mentioned I am gluten and dairy free so could I skip the bar and order ala carte.  She was fabulous to ask what I wanted and charge accordingly. I said I just wanted two over easy eggs, a side of bacon and some pineapple.  The buffet cost over £20, my breakfast was £6.  Given that a glass of juice is usually £6 or more, I was quite happy with this reasonable and logical pricing.  The next day when I arrived and there was a host, I said my name and room and he said “your dietary restrictions are noted”. As someone who has had to order the buffet and overpay at hotels, this was seriously a delight.  While I was thinking of brunch at a local restaurant, I really couldn’t beat £6 so I ate at the hotel each morning to save money and time.

Dinner in the One Square bar/lounge let me choose from the fancy One Square menu (Steaks, Duck, etc.) or the lighter bar menu. Both menus have the One Square burger which is a signature dish made in house, so I decided to see if they were as good as touted.  The lounge is a pretty design feature with glass lighting, purple chaise loungers, lime fabric chairs and accent colors and features.  It felt more relaxing than the One Square Restaurant dining area that I was eating breakfast each morning.

Choosing a table by the window inside, I was offered bar snacks which I declined while waiting on my burger, chunky chips (fries) and side of green beans with almonds (had to add something healthy).   I didn’t realize how hungry I was but I ate the entire meal – bun included (so much for my gluten free stint).   It was quite a satisfying meal and tasty – Scottish beef has a different flavor than what we are used to in the U.S.

At the time, the lounge was quiet for a Saturday night until the wedding parties spilled out of the event space on the floor. On previous nights, the bar, lounge and patio were packed during happy hour and later into the night.

One Spa & Fitness Center

The hotel has a separate large facility for spa treatments and the fitness center.  It is in a separate building next to the hotel which can be accessed on the connector bridge from the hotel or via an entrance at lobby level outside in the arrivals driveway.  I didn’t have enough time to book a treatment and since I was walking for hours each day, opted to forgo using the fitness center.

Overall – the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa

I had a lovely stay at the Edinburgh Sheraton Grand and would definitely stay here again when in Edinburgh.  It was in a great location to walk from, the staff were very attentive and friendly and the room was comfortable. My view of “what is a Sheraton” has definitely evolved in Europe and based on this visit and my London stay, I would consider more Sheraton stays in the future.  It seems that the Sheraton brand is evolving into an affordable luxury category with modern design and elevated experience, a far cry from the boring budget beige that I’ve long associated with the brand.  The Edinburgh Sheraton was quite “Grand” after all.

For my Memorial Day trip this year, I decided a quick three days in Edinburgh would be a perfect diversion from my normal London visit.  I would still go to London for two nights before flying home to see friend. With such a short visit to Edinburgh, you’d think I would have done advanced prep but didn’t as it felt that I would wing it and be ok. Only a few days before arrival, I sent the concierge team at the Sheraton Edinburgh a note for recommendations.  For me, Edinburgh would be my base as I was keen to explore away from the city.  The concierge team advised a bunch of restaurants, a few tours and local attractions. Looking at my weather app, it proposed sun for two of my three days so I figured best to take advantage of the good weather and go from there.

Day One in Edinburgh – Castle, Closes and Steak Night

Arriving near noon from my overnight flight from Philly with a connection through Heathrow (note for future, to fly direct), it was near noon when I arrived at the hotel.  While I noted in my reservation a request for an early check-in, I was prepared to drop my bags to go explore.  Lucky day for me when told not only was my room ready but I was upgraded the SPG preferred floor with a view of Edinburgh Castle.  I was using my Starwood points for the three night award stay so the upgrade and better view were both bonuses.  After a much needed shower to wash off the travels, I was ready to go explore Edinburgh.

First stop food!  In the Festival Square area, there are many food options mostly U.K. chain restaurants and pubs but that provided me easy comfort as I was familiar with the names from London.  I easily slipped into a booth at Bryon and tucked into a burger and fries (the first of many “there are no calories on vacation” meals).  Healthy?  Not at all!  Tasty?  Absolutely.  Satisfied with my fueling, I walked about ten minutes to Edinburgh Castle (the concierge arranged the ticket for quick entry).

While you can walk the long way around to the bottom of the Royal Mile, I chose to go the slightly more cardio route which was through the streets to the first of many steps up to the castle entry.  Holyrood Palace, the Queen’s Scotland residence was closed during my visit or I would have started there and made my way up the Royal Mile ending at Edinburgh Castle.   Edinburgh Castle is quite steep with cobblestones so wear good shoes and tread carefully lest you twist your ankle or fall. With a good amount to see, I opted for the audio guide over the free guided short tour.

After spending time at Edinburgh Castle, I was intrigued by Mary King’s Close tour of the underground that Edinburgh was built upon.  If you’ve visited Seattle or Naples, the underground tours are somewhat similar and each a fascinating look at the history of the city.  For Edinburgh it’s all about the hills and steps and boy are they steep (working off the chips and the whisky no doubt).

Back up in the sunlight, it was nearly 6 p.m. (the sun would set after 9 p.m.) and still hot (it was a high of 85 degrees during my visit which is unusually hot) so I walked toward Princes Street, home of shopping, outdoor pop ups and acres of parks.  With the amazing sunny day, it seemed that everyone was out of their house and enjoying the open spaces and sun with friends (and a bottle of wine) in the park.  As it had rained for nearly a week, the sun in any form was a highlight. Walking through the park was a nice contrast to the history you can view up on the hill.

As I rounded the street back toward the hotel, my loop of a half day was a good one – Edinburgh Castle, Mary King’s Close and Princes Street & Park.  Now for dinner, my feet basically stopped across the road from the hotel at The Beer Kitchen gastro pub on steak night and I went in to enjoy Scottish beef and would have a lovely conversation with an older couple from Missouri seated next to me.

Day Two in Edinburgh – Out to the Highlands & Stirling Castle

The concierge warned against the day trip to Loch Ness given the time on the bus and I agreed especially as I had visited Loch Ness more than twenty years ago – no monster then and I hazarded a guess no monster now.  I, instead, chose to visit the Scottish Highlands and Stirling Castle with Timberbush Tours (one of two small group tours recommended).  The sixteen passenger bus would have a fantastic day out of Edinburgh with a wonderful guide.  The agenda included the famous Forth Bridge, a boat ride on Loch Lomond, a stop to see a hairy coo named Fiona and Stirling Castle along with bad jokes, traditional music and a drive by of the Kelpies, a modern art structure of horses along the highway. It was still a long day returning to the city by 7 p.m. so I chose to eat at the hotel restaurant and call it an early night.

Day Three in Edinburgh – Out to St. Andrew’s

The sun tried to stay but was overpowered by the clouds, grey and rains.  After having such a great small group tour the day before, I opted for the last seat on the tour to St. Andrews, famous for its university but more important for the origin of golf on the Old Course. The concierge did provide an alternative to take the local train for an hour and then wander the town (next time I’ll do that).  Once we arrived at St. Andrews, I was able to view the famous cathedral ruins and cemetery (the free part, opting not to pay the entrance fee further).  From there, I wandered about the university buildings before finding lunch at a cute café just as the sky opened up to pour out the rains. Arriving back at the pick-up point, across from St. Andrews Old Course, I was able to take a few quick pictures and see the happiest of golfers (mostly men) having finished their dream golf outing.

Back in Edinburgh, I was armed with a few great restaurant recommendations and in search of the oasis to Scottish foods and fun on Rose Street, a paved pedestrian only area of pubs, restaurants and shops.  The first recommendation, Wildfire, had a sign in the window “no bookings left for tonight”, another had a long wait and no bar for one, and the third was blah.  Using my backup list and Google Maps, I walked toward Waverly Train Station and then the Royal Mile area to find a few in the hidden streets and alleys and when I looked at the menus, I was blah about much of the offerings or the crowds waiting to get in.  I was now just hungry, tired and grumpy in that “I’ll just eat chips and wine” kind of way so found just that to feed my cravings.  Rather than go back to the hotel the easy way, I decided to walk that way and of course got lost, even Google Maps was like “Why don’t you listen?” so I hailed a black cab to haul me back to the hotel and say “adieu” to Edinburgh.

The Virgin East Coast Train from Edinburgh to London

Rather than fly back to London, I booked a first class seat on the Virgin East Coast train.  A nice 4.5 hour journey from Edinburgh to London.  Lucky me as the British Airways power outage and flight fiasco was happening at Heathrow so I managed to avoid that mess.  It was quite a pleasant trip with free wifi, movies via the BEAM app, food and drinks (no alcohol on weekends, boo!).

Three Days in Edinburgh – Final Thoughs

So could I have done more?  Yes.  Seen More? Maybe.  Immersed myself in the culture and food scene? Absolutely. But my three days in Edinburgh was perfectly paced for what I wanted to do which was revisit the city after a twenty year hiatus. Castles don’t change, Lochs don’t change but I have changed and now my time is best spent with a mix of sightseeing, relaxation and comfort (note: I would have added whisky tours/tastings but sadly was still on meds related to my bug incident from last month so my drinking was severly curtailed which also affected my mood for nightlife). I feel that I could appreciate the history, the beauty and the culture so much more now than when I was just out of college and seeing things for the first time. You could spend a whole day just shopping in Edinburgh if that’s your thing, a day enjoying the many unique restaurants and chefs that the city celebrates.  My three days in Edinburgh were castles, a hairy coo and lush landscapes and that was a nice treat to remind me to come back later to explore Scotland more in depth. Reminder noted.

Have you visited Edinburgh?  If so, what were your highlights? How would you spend Three Days in Edinburgh?